Some really basic graphs on what a gearbox specialist will need to look at (not perodua, this is almost 10 years old technology which involve minimum coordination between ECU and TCU, mostly wheel speed and throttle opening only, Most modern gearbox will have comprehensive communication between ECU and TCU)




P.S. For graph below, note the pressure that the gearbox component is experiencing, it is in close to a hundred PSI. We only pump our tyres to less than 40psi in most cases and at high pressure you can feel all the bumps on the road. Gearbox is a very precise equipment and very expensive as well. That's why many say only use manufacturer ATF and fill ATF per manufacturer spec as gearbox operate on hydraulic/fluid pressure principle via the transmission fluid, recommended dont overfill which cause excess pressure, and dont underfill which cause inadequate pressure (which is why user manual has procedure to check atf level, and atf dipstick has hot range markings and cold range markings.) Some manufacturers like Mazda do not use ATF dipstick on their gearbox anymore, ATF level is checked electronically via pressure readings from ECU/TCU with manufacturer service equipment and specs for perfect function of their gearbox



* Bind up: Gearbox 'accidentally' engage 2 gear at the same time. You will feel a shift where it seems like it's going to next gear but got 'blocked' but current gear. And the gearbox re-do the shift very quickly in most cases.
* Flare: Gearbox release 'clutch' too soon. RPM rise more than 300rpm during a shift. During that rpm rise, no power is transfer to wheel. Ie. Slippage.
* Bump: Kick/thud during gear shift which has no symptoms of above
** Just a general guideline









What a fully modern TCU-ECU coordination will need, at it's basic:

For wobbling, a tyre rotate many time per second, if a wheel is divided by half and is heavier at one side, the rotation forces when at high speed will cause the wobbling, this is solve in alignment by doing balancing. Disk brake or pads that have problem may also touch each other causing a 'brake and let go' many times a second at high speed, it becomes wobbly. The tyre condition also a factor, if its not a smooth donut and has unevenness here and there, it will wobble.

For the toe problem, when the car is affected by wind or road uneven, it will push the car on either left or right side. The side being pushed will be 'heavier'. Hence, more traction and grip on that side.

Proper toe is needed for straight line stability. If 'toe' is too much either of both ways, it can make the situation worse because, as the pix earlier, the tyres are already not pointing straight (it wants to turn when 'being pressed down'). So, there will be more 'turning feeling' and feels very wobbly. The car shouldn't have no toe either because in driving condition toe is needed to compensate the suspension.

Generally,
- The more 'toe out' the more it wants to turn. Good for roads like Genting or aggressive driver but its tiring to control the car on highways.
- The more 'toe in', the more the car doesn't want to turn, but too much causes the problem above as well

Other than that, if the top mount or bushing of the lower arm is worn and no longer 'tight' it may also cause this problem because the weight cannot be transferred properly

Other factors such as car weight and suspension quality also matter. Mine was alignment. Last year got my car align and it is much better, 60% 70% or so but not completely gone. M on 185/60r14. Can also play with front and rear tyre pressure. Start with 2psi or 20kpa difference between front and rear and go from there, to suit ur driving style. U have wider tyre, think if u get it right it will be great