Aiya if one has no $$ just say no $$. Ownself claim to be car lover, a car lover where performance matters wont be buying a perodua or proton period. Come to a Bezza thread & yakking away over its characteristics? Keep downtalking one brand & praise another brand on the reason of letting people know what they are in for so as to let others benefit is hypocritical expression.

Long journey? Who actually claim that Bezza is long journey & why r u grumbling this abt? Want comfort buy camry not iriz.

Fr what I read abt ur posts, u are judgemental & magnified problems, but act noble.

If Bezza so lousy, sell it take the loss & swallow it. Nobody here ask u to live with a lousy car. Yak so much & in the end still cant afford the loss & still wanna boast that u are a car lover. One moment say iriz a better car & another moment say u will be driving something else & wont be comparing a proton vs a perodua if u hv $$.

Swallow the fact that u hv no $$ so dun complain so much so that u r slapping urself with ur own face!

Tats bcos these cheapskates wanna pay Perodua price but expect premium jap luxury refinements! National carmakers are already tapping into jap engine technology that gives us relaibility benefits all this while. There are some things that has no choice but to cut cost & one clear example would be NVH. They are already not skimping on safety features so what are we expecting?

But some idiots are complaining things like poor NVH fr a budget segment & would only give a gd rating if this is improved. My take, if given with gd NVH which is a luxury option, then be mentally prep to pay more. But these same idiots will then complain the prices are now narrowed against other established brands & tell others its a no-brainer. Tats why I said, if no $$ buy other better brands then dun come here kaopeh kaobu abt a budget segment.

Be it Proton or Perodua, they hv done their part to make their products for her people in an affordable way thats all.

Some people should really just STFU.

very unlikely need to pump but think ur buttocks cannot tahan...haha.

Also depends on ur speed, if like me doing 130 - 140 kmph fr JB to Ayer Hitam...fc will go up.

Just kiddin...for me to run-in based on my ideal requirements, is to drive it like a maniac & let the engine work. But reality & situations do not allow me to do so...haha.

Ok on a serious note, to not exceed certain rpm & speed indeed is an old wives tale in today's context. In fact, the engine should be condition to work in every situation during run-in with both city & highway driving. Sometimes even also must floor pedal to kick in high rpm to simulate fast overtaking maneuvers.

The rpm should not be too consistent during the run-in stage. Just drive like what u will to a normal car. Cheers fr a Silver one too.

U dun even know the diff between brake disc vs brake pads but yet already wanna judge & concluded a negative statement?

Any vehicle that has liad will hv greater inertia, isnt it?

If u feel ur braking power is not enough, then dun u think there is somewhere else fr the car that u could obtain additional braking power?

U can hv 2 choices

1. Be like an idiot like those 2.
2. Gain better knowledge to discover why they skidded but the rest of Bezzas or Myvis didnt.

If u choose 1, any brand of cars will hv no diff to u cos an idiot will always be an idiot given any car.

If u choose 2, u will make the best of urself outta any car u are issued with or driving it, akin to best making use of what resources u hv.

More often than not, it is easy to blame the car & I wonder how come u are still driving a Perodua, coming fr a car lover as u previously claimed?

At least u are eating some humble pie now, aint it.

1. I am not trying to catch ur wording & how do u come abt the fact that Bezza has weak braking. How do u support this statement? A new brake PAD has a break-in period, NOT a brake disc, smart alec.

2. Any car that has additional load will hv a greater inertia. Same goes to change in handling when fully loaded.

3. Ur reply just show shallow u r. If power fr brake is not enough, there is something called engine brake by selecting lower gear, so what ceramic nonsense r u blabbering abt? Trying to impress u know lotsa gd quality stuff?

If u work & pay for the car, then appreciate it that the car serve u well & not keep harping & amplifying its weakness when it is not so weak afterall. Do u know u r trying to paint a very bad picture of it in an unfair & biased manner? If I m ur car & can come alive, I would hv given u not 1 but 2 big slaps!

The reason why I restraint fr pointing it out cos I dun see any reason to teach an proud yet shallow forum member, period!

I didnt create a nick just for u, u r not even worth that effort. I hv been reading as a guest all along learning stuffs until u came along blabbering ur misleading nonsense. Ur past postings werent even convincing enough & this is ur problem. U r just a talk cock master using this platform to air ur passing remarks that are not beneficial to others here.

So all ur replies are fr these textbooks aka user manual lah? Who dunno how to read fr these manuals?

If can read fr these manuals, who needs to come to this forum to ask for others for their past experiences?

Are u really here to learn or to grumble (or amplified) the weakness? I cant tell fr ur past postings in this Bezza topic leh?

Bezza topic is for other to exchange pointers on Bezza so that we could benefit fr one another but I dun see I learn anything fr u leh? Members come here to find out info but what kinda of reply u give? "If not for..., I would hv bought brand XXX". Who cares abt ur decisions? People are here for answers & learn more abt Bezza, not here to experience ur show-offs. If u wanna buy Proton, then u should discuss in another Proton topic. I wont hv any issues with u if u are just merely comparing but ur posts are abt urself & ur views which is pretty disgusting.

As for weak braking, dun be so quick to blame the car. U confess that u r not an engineer urself. It is the driver not the car most of the time. Braking is most important for a car & if really Proton or other brand so gd, first thing is to boycott Bezza be it has other fantastic features.

What?! Putting into P mode & pull handbrake can get more engine braking?! What skewed theory here? I flipped here flipped there cannot find this info from any sources.

I think I hv made it very clear why I created an acct. If u still dun understand then I cannot help u in interpreting it correctly.

My advise to all is to read clearly what u hv posted if it is a balanced view or just sheer "noise".

Frankly, when I read ur past postings and often, I am confused. So gd or no gd?

But when u said gd, it tends to sound very hypocritical, like "gd if u can accept certain flaw lor".

When no gd, also very hypocritical, like "but given its price u see...?

Then when members probed, u will nobly say "just here to share so that all can hv a better choice" to make urself look so gd.

And u write as if u know lotsa stuff like that then say is written in manual. If like that, then one sentence says it all lor, "refer to manual", period. Compare BMW with Bezza, I really clap that u can come up with this kinda comparison. No wonder some past posting u can compare national car brands with jap brands. Pay Perodua price but want conti top quality. Looks like u arent contented with national car brands already with some jap technology, arent u?

U make this topic more like a topic for u to complain & grumble, and u make bias conclusion & judgement way too soon.

Is there any other Continental models for Bezza? I m on 185/55/R15. Or what other brands & models u know that might be gd?

My rattle was obvious during idling which is normal after I verified with another demo car. I dun think I heard any rattle thou as I might be very focus should I do a hard acceleration. I m also on wider tyres 185/55/R15 so I guess road noise for mine will slightly be higher too.

Manual is written in a way that is the safest approach in the eyes of manufacturer as consumers may want read something concrete like a step-by-step guide. And it doesnt mean that by not following closely, the engine will kaput. Frankly to make engine kaput & especially such a new engine will be so hard. The best run in will be a balance in all terrain moderately as in city drive with some highway drive. Life just goes on as normal. I dun think anyone would collect their car & proceed to Genting or Fraser Hill straight away too. 🙂

I m not this observant thou but I think this should be normal when u mentioned it gradually faded away once u pickup speed.

I would probably take notice if the rattle is uncommonly loud.

Yes, water type. Lasted me 1.5 yrs. Nowadays with "modern" cars, very hard to tell how "bad" a battery is.

My bezza actually did show signs of weak battery, just that I wasnt aware & it was kinda hit by surpise. Upon reaching 12 mths of age, one day I merely drove to shift into a different space after a hose-down wash.

After a few hrs wanted to drive the car, experienced hard cranking as in got cranking sound & sounded strong somemore but engine just refused to fire up. After a few tries, finally succeed but drove with a heavy heart thinking what hv gone wrong with a new car?

The next 6 mths showed no signs of weak starting & same problem surfaced. This time I took a multimeter to check on batt 1st thing b4 the morning cold start as that will give the most accurate reading. Indeed read abt 11 plus Voltage but I cant remember exactly at what point will be the make or break point if u guys know what I mean.

Fr then onwards, I make it a point to check on batt every 12 mths. The weak cranking syndrome is somehow not common on modern cars anymore & it seems we cannot apply this method as well anymore.

When we managed to crank start the engine succesfully, even the battery shop told us batt is healthy & has charging but what they cannot find out that it is already low it seems.

The incident did freak me out abit I confessed & since then I make it a point to check on the health of batt myself fr 12 mths onwards. The start stop city drive certainly didnt help much in recharging our batt I think but lotsa long distance driving would definitely make the battery last longer.

U r complicating things here with ur purpose of "making sure readers dun get the wrong info". Well let us all get the facts straight here then.

Every car mfg post their FC figures but do they list their competitors clearly in comparison black & white to upsell their own product? So how do readers get wrong info as stated by ur claim? It is just reading the FC info at face value, correct? The comparison are done by consumers themselves. Does Perodua misrepresent anything in their info?

It is ur choice of words that make urself hypocritical unfortunately. It is perfectly OK to say that another car with a higher cc yet can achieve a better FC, and u prefer THAT car. THAT car is more impressive on FC but that doesnt give u the right to conclude the FC of the Bezza as lNOT GOOD. See ur choice of words? This is just one example. Things need not be at this extreme all the time, hv some balance & think, be fair to urself & the product itself. If the product failed u, by all means support with ur claims, not ur wishlist on a national car when it has exceeded the expectation by including safety features at today prices.

U can go on to compare the gd handling of other makes but the price diff is so significant. I'd hv concluded that the Bezza, given its price range, is gd for what it is designed for. There is nothing wrong in saying the cons but there is no need to amplify it either as what jtan has informed u. I can make a car almost w/o safety features at a cheap price for u but would u promise that u will NOT grumble it is an unsafe car? And if I had more $$, i'd hv bought so & so. That will not put urself in gd light.

Ok. Saga is 10k cheaper but do u want ur fellow readers to deal with a breakdown everytime? So what is ur point here? "Help" readers that there is a cheaper car? Or "help" readers there is a car which can breakdown easily? Do u URSELF wanna drive a 10k cheaper car but bear with possible breakdown as what u claimed? When u r required to be conclusive in ur stand, u didnt do so. When there is no need to be conclusive & judgemental, u came out with lotsa ur own judgement & misleading conclusion.

Regret is a strong word here & u r misleading & confusing readers here.

There is really nothing wrong to say imperfections on a car but do u regret buying it?

There is no such thing as regret this price of the car but dun regret the gd things abt the car.

I is like I regret buying merc cos it is so expensive thou it does gives me some benefits which I like. Think abt this statement & u will know what makes u so genuinely different fr another whom equally discuss abt the cons.

Again, regret is a strong conclusive word.

I m sure many are normal saints here trying to makedo with their resources on-hand.

Indeed there are many more things to be concern abt & this forum is to exchange info so that one another benefits.

It is perfectly normal to share the cons of something as there is simply no perfect car. We all make our decision with our eyes wide open with all options clearly laid out on the table.

We could even cross over to the other end of the road for that Proton showrm b4 we sign on the dotted line. I m sure many does that.

But here we got a weirdo who just cant get his weightage right between pros & cons. And just rather more of proving his presence here. Pay segment B price for segment A car, he didnt do homework meh, then why make the decision? What can we learn fr his decision of paying segment B price for segment A then? Did he explain? Yes but in a pretty condescending way fr how we read it. He is not someone making u feel better with ur purchase, he is someone who try to make u wonder if u had made that right purchase & will lead people on & on thinking that these are constructive ongoing discussions.

Thou he didnt put in writing but fr his choice of words of expression, it is indirectly hinting that a product is not priced accordingly. Again if this is a forum claim to exchange ideas, then by all means support it.

Yes, Saga is cheaper so why so gong still go buy Bezza then come here tell people again & again? Surely members hv compare the price already, right? Play saint here is it? One can definitely make positive & negative comments but can we do it in a fair constructive mannerm

If I can make those comments like what someone says, I'd hv long ditched Bezza but his comment surely didnt do Bezza nor any other makes any justice at all.

My fren has the same profile & rear tyres were rubbing the wheel arc when the car was loaded with total 5 pax incl. driver. Even when not loaded, going over uneven road in slightly higher speeds over resulted in the rear tyres rubbing the rear wheel arcs.

I follow his videos & his views are very balance. He will say factual things abt the car & leave it for owners or buyers to weigh the pros & cons themselves.

His videos clearly shows it is the driver & not the car. Give this man any car he will turn the odds against any unqualified remarks.

Now that YS Khong has finally produced a video on Bezza, this will shut some crappers here for u guys know who I m referring to.

I see....then this tyre conversion wont work for me as the Bezza is not a lifestyle car for me & should not rub the wheel arc if I carry passengers. I remain in my current profile & just switched to Viking Protech PT6 185/55/R15 mfg in 49/19 which is pretty new stock. Am happy with this new Viking tyres too.