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 Honda City Gen 6.0/6.1 V10

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gsan
post Jan 3 2019, 08:40 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 3 2019, 04:59 PM)
Yeah, that too. So means after mod meter panel, you will want to get paddle shifters as well?  rclxms.gif
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i came from manual car, so paddle shift is not attractive me at all laugh.gif
gsan
post Jan 5 2019, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(AureusX @ Jan 5 2019, 01:22 PM)
Speaking of wax... What's the point of a water wax? Because most car washes they will ask if you want to do a water wax. Any sifu can enlighten me? biggrin.gif I know it's a cheap and temporary fix but what's the pros and cons of water wax?
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if u do water wax, better buy and do yourself
gsan
post Jan 5 2019, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(AureusX @ Jan 5 2019, 01:22 PM)
Speaking of wax... What's the point of a water wax? Because most car washes they will ask if you want to do a water wax. Any sifu can enlighten me? biggrin.gif I know it's a cheap and temporary fix but what's the pros and cons of water wax?
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if u do water wax, better buy and do yourself
gsan
post Jan 7 2019, 09:22 AM

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QUOTE(NickedAsy @ Jan 6 2019, 08:52 PM)
Just arranged with SC for my servicing this month on one of the coming Saturdays. Must remember to remove my canbus. biggrin.gif
Sounded a bit rude though, like questioning his intelligence. hmm.gif
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why need to remove the canbus? I did installed canbus harness before 10k service until now, and coming Sat for 40k service.
gsan
post Jan 8 2019, 08:10 PM

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Honda Grace/FL V Spec Tweeter Cover, anyone interested? brows.gif

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gsan
post Jan 8 2019, 11:46 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 8 2019, 11:10 PM)
The poison is strong with this one  devil.gif

BTW, which site do you go for ordering JDM parts?
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u can try buyee... but usually i get from supplier biggrin.gif
gsan
post Jan 13 2019, 02:18 PM

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small project for today, cruise control on pre-fl e spec thumbup.gif

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https://youtu.be/OMuiGZetSIs
gsan
post Jan 13 2019, 02:56 PM

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fl e/v spec user, can u guys do me a favour? see whats the part number of your ecu? its located beside battery

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gsan
post Jan 14 2019, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(gsan @ Jan 13 2019, 02:56 PM)
fl e/v spec user, can u guys do me a favour? see whats the part number of your ecu? its located beside battery

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any fl e/v spec use can help? notworthy.gif
gsan
post Jan 16 2019, 08:19 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 15 2019, 10:01 PM)
Sorry my sifu. Tried looking on my Espec but can't seem to find it. Might be for FL they relocated that label?
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its ok, someone here already provide me the part number, its different from pre-fl one.
gsan
post Jan 16 2019, 08:23 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 16 2019, 01:15 AM)
Since my car won't be going into the body repair SC in another month, I couldn't wait much longer so I installed those tweeters I got from gsan at the front door panels. Here are what I have done over the weekend:

1) Here is the armrest. There is a slot at the end of the silver panel which need to pry open with a pry tool or test pen screwdriver.
[attachmentid=10160834]

2) The silver panel is sits flush with the door panel wall, so used masking tape to cover the wall surface, to protect the silver panel from scratching it.
[attachmentid=10160836]

3) For the wide portion of the silver panel, there is 4 clips; 2 front and 2 back. Once it is lifted via the pry tool, then using fingers to lift it off the clips.
[attachmentid=10160837]

4) Carefully lift up the narrower portion of the silver panel. There is 2 clips at the rear. Don't want to break anything so by taking time (and timeout) to carefully lift this part off.
[attachmentid=10160838]

5) Removing the whole silver panel and take out the screw.
[attachmentid=10160811]

6) Removing the cover behind the door handle panel and take out the 2 screws.
[attachmentid=10160813]

7) Removing the small triangular cover at rear view mirror. Just pry it out using fingers. Putting masking tape surround the cover edges prevents any scratches.
[attachmentid=10160814]

8) Hold the door frame using leg while pulling out the door panel with hands. There's a bit of gap at bottom which can use to grab and pull.
[attachmentid=10160816]

9) Once door panel is released from door frame, don't need to take it whole out, just move it aside to reach the main speaker. Take out this single screw.
[attachmentid=10160817]

10) The main speaker uses doublesided tape at the edges and strong magnetic force to hold onto door frame. So just using a penknife to slide in and break the bonding, then use hands to take out the speaker.
[attachmentid=10160818]

11) This is how it looks when removed. There are 2 pegs below the speaker driver for positioning into door frame. This is not clips so no worries there.
[attachmentid=10160819]

12) Take out the connection from the main speaker. Its a bit hard to remove, but careful not to break the diaphragm or the connectors.
[attachmentid=10160821]

13) The tweeter wires basically goes between the speaker wire harness and the speaker connector. They are male-female connectors so no worries getting mixed up. Also the sockets are keyed so no chance of wrong left-right connections. Another visual clue is black wire at left of speaker and white+black wire at right side.
[attachmentid=10160847]

14) Route the tweeters thru the main speaker hole into the door frame and out the wire harness breakout point. Pulling as much of tweeter wires out, then use the magnetic back to place the tweeters at the door frame.
[attachmentid=10160850]

15) This part done, then test the tweeters are working and if the main speakers ARE STILL working. Would be a big headache to do all that if either have spoiled. Reinstall the main speakers by reversing Step 11 to 9.

16) See the rear of door panel. Near the door handle have small speaker grille which is where the tweeter goes. Pay attention to the odd shaped trapezoid from the circle. The tweeter is not perfectly circular so it must be placed in at correct orientation/rotation.
[attachmentid=10160824]

17) This is how it should look. The odd shape at tweeter matched to the odd shaped cutout. I removed the screws nearby, but seems like it doesn't have any effects, so can just ignore them.
[attachmentid=10160825]

18) Pretty much that's it. Reinstall back everything so follow the door panel removal steps in reverse. Becareful with the silver panel installation as this have a high risk to scratch the door panel wall, so masking the wall surface is essential.
[attachmentid=10160826]

19) On hindsight after trial and error, suggest to put extra masking tape at the armrest bottom edge and the silver panel edges to protect both surfaces during prying process. There are some minor dents on both which happened when 'kiaw'-ing. Both materials are somewhat soft, so can still use fingernails to smoothen out dents (at least as best possible).
[attachmentid=10160828]

Summary: Total time taken, about 1 hour each door including timeouts. overall sound quality is much better. It no longer sounds like it came from the bottom sides near the legs. I can hear the vocals are clearer and like its in front of me now. Music no longer sounded as hollow or... how to say... it sounded more fuller and in the front, thou vocals still tend to be soft at low tones (not sure if its the type of music I listen to). So I am currently satisfied with just 2 in front. Thanks sifu gsan for ur supply of the tweeters and some pictures how'd you installed it.
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wow, nice tutorial to share ya... thumbsup.gif great that you have satisfy with the outcome of tweeter thumbup.gif
gsan
post Jan 16 2019, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(iEden11 @ Jan 16 2019, 08:25 PM)
Hi guys, is it possible to retro-fit the Honda City FL V Spec Tail Light onto the E Spec?

user posted image
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why not? Comes with plug and play harness somemore brows.gif
gsan
post Jan 16 2019, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 16 2019, 09:39 PM)
I seen the HRV facelift on PaulTan and sad to say they have downgraded the touchscreen HU to the same crappy HU as on our City & Jazz FL. Walauwwei!
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yeah... too bad... button on steering also become lesser compared to pre-fl
gsan
post Jan 17 2019, 10:07 PM

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Today's arrival... honda grace emblem and tweeter cover with silver lining brows.gif


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gsan
post Jan 20 2019, 09:10 AM

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For FL E/V spec user who changed to pre-fl v spec hu, this is the socket for canbus connection, on top of the place where you rest your left leg.

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New version of canbus harness suitable for both pre-fl and fl version

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This post has been edited by gsan: Jan 20 2019, 10:08 AM
gsan
post Jan 20 2019, 09:13 AM

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Yesterday done installed Grace/FL V Spec tweeter cover with silver lining thumbup.gif

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gsan
post Jan 20 2019, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(otnuus @ Jan 20 2019, 10:17 AM)
I thought it does not make much difference. But the photo when the cover installed looks good.
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racun sikit brows.gif
gsan
post Jan 20 2019, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(arinpresto @ Jan 20 2019, 10:58 AM)
How much the damage? Where from? Thailand or Japan?
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from japan boss

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gsan
post Jan 20 2019, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 20 2019, 11:41 AM)
So meaning replace the FL HU wire harness with the one you showed on the bed, then FL users can use preFL Vspec HU? Interesting  hmm.gif
Which of the socket to take out? The green one or the white one?

Nice look for the small speaker grille, thou I myself prefer if it was chromed instead to better match the shiny door handle.

Not sikit, my sifu. When you racun, its always a lot! Haha!
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nope, u still need conversion harness to use pre-fl v spec hu on fl e/v spec. but in order to have full function as pre-fl v spec such as bt music, fc display, reverse line follow steering turn, video bypass, hu brightness follow meter when turn on small light, then you have to connect the canbus

there is another old version of canbus harness only suitable for pre-fl user. if fl user install that harness for canbus, will lose function such as paddle shift.

This post has been edited by gsan: Jan 20 2019, 02:38 PM
gsan
post Jan 20 2019, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(AureusX @ Jan 20 2019, 04:10 PM)
Omg. Hati sedang bergelora sekarang. Hahahaha. Since my tweeter hasn't been installed yet, I can sekali gus change both together..........  brows.gif  bangwall.gif
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come come thumbup.gif

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