Belt tensioner between original and aftermarket have any difference other than the price? I think mine has started to make some funny noise when the A/C compressor kicks in.

It sounds like you drag a chair across the floor. Not the usual rat squeaking noise. Doesn't happen all the time, only at random. So far I have no luck recording it because it does it's random.

but the price... holy cow man. really makes you wonder what kind of QC or what kind of secret sauce they use. i'm using RM150 'original' tensioner with metal pulley, probably 2 years old at this point. turns out proton no longer make this kind of tensioner, now it's only plastic pulley.

Sharing some differences I found between original PW812313V1 tensioner compared to aftermarket



Left is original, deeper hole for the mounting bolt head. Right is aftermarket or original tensioner made before 2020.



Left is original, have a little groove at the marked place. Aftermarket is just a little gap.

Original proton is made by INA. Images is taken from shopee, original price around 280-350 while aftermarket can be from 50-200.
Do note that the new tensioner uses shorter mounting bolt because of the deeper mounting hole.

Asked a workshop to change the tensioner. My Persona is the non IAFM model with original Campro engine. Foreman refused to change my tensioner from metal roller to plastic roller because he's concerned about the compatibility.

Anyone can confirm if I can use the tensioner with plastic roller instead of metal one? I asked on Gen2 owners group, they said should be no problem, plus Proton no longer make the old model tensioner.

ya, would be weird if cannot use. double confirmed with proton part seller said it's the new spec.

a bit sad la because first time try this big workshop. they look like a proper place with waiting room free wifi and stuff, rajin update on social media about car stuff. close to my house too.

now the workshop is on my no go list. sigh. i had my suspicion when i ask them to look at my aircond and the repair guy was quick to suggest replace compressor. on hindsight, probably i won't go to any workshop that have official tiktok account.

This post has been edited by Steponlego: Jul 9 2022, 08:33 PM

Okay so today went to usual workshop. Talk to owner, explain the situation. He frowned a bit, he's a busy guy who don't want any bullshit stays too long on his workshop said okay - but need to use 6PK1669 shorter belt. Checked my old tensioner by pulling the belt, yep confirmed spring is too soft already.

I explained about how original part no longer have metal roller but he don't buy it. So that's two workshop that never heard of this news or the proton part seller is scamming me. Explained further how I bought this thing for like RM300 so I really want to get it done.

Proceed to change tensioner. It was bloody tight almost impossible but somehow managed to pull the tensioner right. Saw the belt not resting quite right on the tensioner but foreman said it will correct itself after start engine.

I start engine, and foreman was right - the belt does correct itself.

Now the engine idles better when the a/c is on.

since now they only sell one type of tensioner, i'd say probably yes. the same for Preve.

really weird how the spec changes. if follow old original spec, the original campro in my persona uses 6PK1675, but then somehow changes to 6PK1677.

snake oil.

need recommendation for brake pad.

the one with red shim or black?

got shopee sellers selling the ceramic with red shim, but the price is sus. not to mention all of them lose their 100% original guarantee status.

latest brembo website shows only black shim is sold now.

I'm using original Proton brake pad right now, made by Mintye which weirdly does not comes with metal shims on the brake pad.

I'm thinking that the missing shim might be causing the mysterious knocking sound when I hit the brakes.

Bit of review. Just replaced OEM Proton brake pad to Brembo P66001 which I think is semi metallic.

Brake pad comes with detachable metal shim, which is a bit of a rarity because many brake pad I see on the market glued the shim. No extra accessories. Costs Rm70.

Initial impression, better braking power compared to OEM Proton. Changing to the new brake pad seems to solve the random mysterious knocking sound I keep hearing when using the brake. As it turns out, the metal shim on the back of the pad functions to eliminate this knocking sound. OEM Proton does not provide you with the shims.

Brake noise when slowly moving the car in the morning also noticeably more silent.

At first I was suspicious at the price, but the Brembo pad was original. Got sticker on the box imported and distributed by Emerald Auto Parts.

I like to slowly brake make it smooth as possible before a stop, so this braking feel is nice.

On other note, have you ever had bunyi tikus noise problem coming from the dashboard? It's driving me nuts because I can't tell where its coming from. I think something is rattling somewhere. Noise become considerably louder when going through bumpy road.

drive for 5 minutes, temperature shoots 3/4 of the gauge. turn off engine for 1 minute, it returns to normal. radiator cap still cool to touch. sent to workshop, found no problem.

then yesterday i noticed the gauge got stuck.

this old rust bucket loves to pull prank on me.

of course can.



this brother do repair for persona and gen2 meter in kuala selangor. strictly by appointment because sometimes got people passing by ask to do repair too. replaced the motor for thermal gauge. taken from gen2 meter i think.

this is second time i send the meter for repair. back then it was the infamous P0501 speed signal not plausible. hopefully this time no more problem because my persona meter got no ABS and meter for no ABS model is basically instinct.

probably will fit no problem.



this is the faulty part. i can see some black soot possibly burn mark at the back. unfortunately, the repair didn't last for too long. now the temperature got stuck and won't go down. repair guy said will try find other spare.

anyone have spare or brand new PW855505 let me know.

PM the brother, said he will look for donor parts. I'm thinking maybe should just buy brand new meter and transplant it. Other option is to use ABS meter, but the handbrake light and ABS will be always on unless I send the meter to be modified.

should be replaceable.

temperature gauge won't go down to zero after turning off engine and taking out the keys.

also, i had a few overheat case years before. the temperature don't just shoot up to the max in less than 5 minutes of driving the car even when the radiator is completely out of coolant.

Need opinion.

Used meter that might or might not work for RM280 PW855505 or
New meter but the catch is it's manual meter PW851802, not auto for RM400.

I'm thinking maybe I can live without auto gear indicator on the meter panel. At least it's better than having ABS and handbrake light always on if I use ABS meter.

Meter combination without ABS is out of production.

Looking again at the used part, my meter looks miles better...

or maybe I should just ignore this minor inconvenience

not a fan of that. the temperature probably not accurate too since placement is at the hose.

thinking of OBD meter, but nothing works for old proton car.

or maybe get bluetooth OBD scanner and cheap phone, make the phone as a dedicated meter. or maybe use to check temperature when needed.