sorry for late reply. i think i'm gonna hold on to these old thing for a while, considering how bad the quality of the aftermarket part are.

for small retainer and clips, you can try asking at Trimas Auto. they have almost everything.

Before this I use cheap RM50 TRW brand. The brake pad makes a lot of noise in the morning, especially if the rotors are wet after rain.
Brake dust is horrible. 3 hour drive, my sport rim will looked like it haven't been washed for weeks.

Now I try using Proton brand brake pad, made by Mintye. The brake pads makes less noise compared to TRW and brake dust is a lot better. Costs me about RM50 on shopee. The downside is this brake pad doesn't comes with the metal shims. Theoretically the shims are to make your brake quieter, but I think right now my car doesn't use any brake pad shims, just put a good amount of grease at the important points. It squeaks a little in slow moving traffic jam, but not a big deal. Definitely better when compared to TRW brand.

Stopping power, I can't really tell because I'm not kaki racing type of person. I prefer to slowly brake before come to a stop.

I think the best value for your money brake pad is Brembo brand because it comes with full set brake caliper metal clip and 2 new 13mm brake caliper bolt. The brake pad metal clip if you buy per unit from after market brand will cost you RM7 - RM9 per clip. One side of front brake needs 4.

Anyone have experience dealing with P0325 knock sensor problem? If I rev the engine too high, exceeds 3000RPM the CEL will turn on.

A bit of sharing with fellow Persona drivers.

My car usually will show check engine light when revving past 3000RPM. First time got this error was back in 2015 I think. Send to my usual mechanic, he said nothing wrong, just some wiring error. So I take his word for it. Didn't know what is a trouble code at that time.

Fast forward to 2020, decided to fix this annoying check engine light. After asking around, found that it's probably error P0501 V-signal not plausible. The only fix for this is to either get the dashboard speedometer fixed or replace the speedometer.

Last week I found a car meter repair guy. He fixed my meter by resoldering weak connectors and removing rusts on the meter PCB. But somehow the check engine light still pops out after 3000RPM. Meter repair guy sends me to his friend with a scan tool. Found there is another one error code: P0325. On the positive side, the P0501 was fixed.

P0325 is an error code for knock sensor malfunction. It can be either the fault in the sensor itself, the wiring to the sensor or the ECU. In Campro engine, the knock sensor is located under the intake manifold. The knock sensor functions to detect pre-ignition or knocks inside the engine. In all engine, there is a specific RPM in which the ECU will request signal from the knock sensor, at which if the ECU didn't get any signal, error P0325 will happens.

Send my car to new workshop after hearing from my friend that the owner used to work with Proton, they took 3 days to finally resolve my P0325 problem (it's a quite packed workshop, plus sensor and wiring issue is always a fickle). Found out that the culprit is the connector to the sensor, the wire was disconnected internally or something. They changed the knock sensor just to be safe. I was charged only RM100 for part and labor, which I was quite surprised because it took a lot of time.

Can you drive with a bad knock sensor? Absolutely yes, yes you can. But the performance of the engine is severely affected especially if you rev the engine hard. After test drive with a working knock sensor, I can tell you that the engine is now a lot more quieter and there is less hard shifting. Usually before this the steering wheels will vibrate when I drive at 100km/h and above (even with new engine mounts). Now there is almost none vibration. The overall acceleration and cabin noise is reduced.

Thank you for reading.

Anyone who rajin DIY maintenance on the car, what's the size of the washer ring for the auto gearbox drain plug? Is it 16mm internal diameter (M16x24) or bigger?

quick googling says it might be caused by bad idle control valve, o2 sensor or clogged fuel injector.

it happens when you reverse because when you reverse, you will always hit the brakes, putting a load on the engine. try put in drive and brake while aircond is on, probably engine will turn off too.

i'd start looking at the throttle body first, see if it full of gunk and dirt. easy diy job, a lot of videos on youtube shows how to clean campro throttle body.

saw too many people got this problem in Gen2 club group on FB. the problem lies in your weatherstrip seal or the rubber thingy at the edge of the door. it will eventually become cracked and will let rain water into the cabin. get it replaced before you got any water damage.

your door plastic looks fine. but if you need to replace it, any plastic would do. i saw someone use black rubbish plastic bag, some even use plastic bag that comes with 10kg rice. don't use UHU glue. what you need is some black butyl rubber tape.

This post has been edited by Steponlego: Apr 22 2021, 04:40 AM

macam kena chopped. i swear that i saw people on FB offer to change intake manifold + trade in for RM200.

Fan belt 6PK1669 or 6PK1677 ??

My tensioner bearing now vibrating when the A/C compressor is engaged. Last year changed new tensioner bearing, fan belt 6PK1677 but it still vibrating - then I changed alternator pulley: vibration gone.

Now the vibration is back but not as bad when the alternator pulley was faulty.

Is there a reason why my car drives better after send for AC major service? Before this my car have slight jerk when coming to a stop. Going downhill also dont feel the usual gear down shift jerk.

And anyone have problem with their brakes make knocking sounds? I suspect it might be a seized caliper pin.

Hi. Car is 15 years old this year at 200,000KM. Worth it to replace the rear suspension? Can you feel the difference? I'm thinking getting new rear arms and replace all the rubber bushings including the trailing arm bushing. Shock absorber still okay, not making any knocking sound or have oil leaking not sure if I should change that too.

yeah i'm thinking either to buy the whole thing from shopee and let mechanic handle the rest. whole no name aftermarket set is just under RM300, include short and long upper arm, lower arm, stabilizer link and bushings. branded part local made like Saiko costs a bit more and then Proton original part is even more expensive. they're non moving part nowhere near the engine, so i guess it's safe to go for cheaper option here?

rough inspection, i can see that the rubber on stabilizer link is already reduced to some dry black rotted stuff. other parts looks okay, but it has been 15 years, who knows what it does to the other bushings.

i wonder if the rear suspension will effect my daily drive, will it make driving the car feel better?

Guess I just replace everything then to save time and cost. I'll report back how the driving feels after the replacement in a few weeks.

About RM80 or RM70 not including tax. Better if you ask the aircond guy to find any leaks first.

Does this driveshaft/ inner CV joint look okay or need replacing?

Last time left side I got charged almost 100. Couple more buck can get brand new drive shaft. will put this on to do list after rear overhaul.

Thanks for the feedback. I ended up buying branded local made aftermarket from Zenwa. Costs double than these 'mitsubishi' parts, but bit cheaper than original proton.

I always wondered how they can sell these part way cheaper than other. What did they do to cut cost of production? Reject items? Low quality rubber? And where is their factory?

How much is the cost to replace the exhaust muffler? Apparently mine has gone bad due to inner rust. It sounded like a tin can with bunch of nails and stones inside.

Sounds like weak motor on the passenger side. Just search for power window motor persona on shopee. But always recommended change the regulator/bracket too.

If center lock issue, none of the locks will work when you use remote and you can hear a click coming from under the dashboard on passenger side. This sounds like sticky lock issue. I think some silicon grease spray will fix it.

Just changed the whole rear suspension. Here's what it cost me:
1. Absorber bush kit = RM46
2. Rear struts set (original Proton) = RM206
3. Rear lower arms (should be original Proton)= RM155
4. Rear trailing arm bush (full rubber) = RM65
5. Tulang anjing small and large, local made Zenwa = RM150
6. Stabilizer bar bush = RM10
7. Stabilizer link (don't think it's original but seller said it is) = RM70

Labour and charges including charge to install trailing arm bush = RM350
Camber and alignment = RM130 (I think the shop charge RM40 per rear camber, RM40 for front alignment and stuff)

Total = RM1200

Is it worth it? Absolutely yes. Now the old car no longer bounces when going through bumpy road.