Thanks for your advice.

It just happened about a month ago, hope not too bad. Hard to just for check, right? when i visit workshop they also use torchlight to see the stain come from where only. Once open, have to change, those brake fluid also have to flush again.

Check the price already, Proton ori about RM300, TRW is half of it. Guess i will go for TRW, hope can last for me.

Do you have experience of changing this pump before?

The check and change part sometimes is budi bicara, because if they spend time check for you but no job done, the shop also shy to charge you mah... Yet the man-hour already spend there on non-revenue generating job.

I have had brake fluid leak out of pump and causes the black paint of booster to peel off. Can't see anything from outside, and i have mentally prepared to change booster as well. Quite lucky that upon dismantling brake pump, inside of booster is dry. Turned out it's pump actuator rubber gone bad already. So just change the pump.

Sidenote: Although most of the mechanics don't advocate changing brake fluid at fixed interval, i found changing brake fluid + bleeding every 25,000km helps extending life of pumps (master pump, 2 small one at drum brake, and clutch pump).
Same goes to power steering fluid, where my wife's viva already on second rack, mine still sports original rack.


Voscar bro, just went to workshop to check with the mechanic that install back my catalytic converter, he said it's badly clogged with honeycomb shattered into small pieces inside. The powder has to be emptied into a plastic bag before threw away. I'll get by with an empty bullet first, while saving money for a proper catcon in future.

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: May 14 2025, 11:35 AM

Do agree with you. I just flush the brake fluid at the same shop last month. More than 5 years didn't change, just to avoid the cap leaking issue, now once flush, guess the gasket at pump seal no good. Just weird thing is, not consistently leaking. I notice it only leak when cold weather after overnight and after few weeks . Most of the time, i park at office basement, no issue.

So you change OEM or Proton original that time?

For power steering fluid also many years didn't change, at last early this year 1 of the hose leak, so when changing, flush the fluid.

I'm thinking still need to monitor or change the pump?

I went for original hahaha. But like i said before, OEM of respectable brand is ok one. One good analogy in your case is, your RM150 can get 80% already, would you want to pay another RM150 to reach 100%?

I choose original because of gatal la... For your case you need to weight your OCD aganist your wallet before decide IMO. No right and wrong in this department as long as you don't use cap ayam.

For your power steering, pump no issue no need to change la... Leaking was the hose right? In my case, it's the hose at the bottom of power steering reservoir that got wet with oil not long after change. Once it was the nipple of the reservoir cracked, there was other times that the hose just couldn't tahan and leak from connection.

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: May 14 2025, 04:10 PM

Sorry for my wrong sentence sequence. My meaning of 'I'm thinking still need to monitor or change the pump?' is refer to Brake Master pump. As no leak now, but not sure when will happened again? Won't be due to the top cover too tight, right?

ya, if TRW can get more than 60% also good enough. As original last me 14 years, if TRW can last me 3 to 4 years is good enough, during that time not sure i still driving this car or not?

You already have answer one... All you need is someone to concur with you hahahaha... Use dry tissue to wipe the wet part time to time, if wet again then you'll know it's time to change.

The only concern i have is air. I have no idea if a leaky brake master pump will introduce air into brake lines, and if your car have ABS, then it add consideration of air being introduced into ABS pump, and the risk of ABS not working as intended when you e-brake, not forgeting the increase in cost of replace the break master pump will go up as you need to bleed ABS pump as well.

Personally, i would suggest to change if you hit highway speed with the car. If it's town use only, can keep and monitor.

Replaced my cooling coil today with sanden original coil. total damage 900 not sure expensive or not

Saw someone's brake master cylinder leaking but reluctant to change?

Last time mine suddenly leaking until handbrake sign showing because low level, so proceed to change. I wouldn't hesitate to replace this less than RM200 part due to safety concern, you can never predict how bad the leak suddenly can be when you needed the brake in emergency situation. Same goes to botak tyre, my car paint can be bad condition but I wouldn't hesitate to replace tyre when worn out before botak.

This post has been edited by voscar: May 15 2025, 11:57 PM


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About that price, I change last year too. Have to dismantle the whole dashboard, right? After assemble back is that perfect? My have one part noise, but nothing can be done already.

Direct tag me-lah.

My is level not drop at all, so come here ask for some opinion, and also the brand to choose. Don't want simply buy then regret later.

I know is important, else won't even border to ask here.

My situation is just flush last month, so waste of money, redo all over again. Already appointment with the shop to do.

Ya mine was leaking 1 month after flushing. I flush every 2 years but due to pandemic lockdown, delayed for 3 years.

Aged rubber seal plus rapid brake pumping action during flushing could've contributed to the leak.

so you use what brand? Less than RM200 is cheap. My quote is less than RM300.

Any different when brake after change?

Agree on the last sentence, aged on rubber and rapid pump during flush make it leak. Else can last longer. No choice, have to do it, spend double already.

Using Shoji brand, part plus labour I check back RM220.

No differences on the brake performance, my rear disc brake pad already used for 13-14 years, still thick but thinking to replace next...

This guy did it quite well i guess..no issue . Cross fingers.
But he sealed my fresh air intake hahaha oh well

Ya, me too. Possible we do it at the same shop? May I know which area of workshop you went?

That's good decision. At first i also doubt want to allow him to seal or not? right after, you will notice no more outside smoke & rubbish smell.

So uh... I got rear ended today. 2 car behind me got struck by some retard, I got hit by the remaining force, but it still was quite hard. Since the car is a old anyway and I had a really long day at the office, I decided to just drive away. Surprisingly only some scratches and rear number plate broken.

Is there any other damage that I need to be aware of?

Your spare tyre well and area around it. Might compromise water proofing. Can check by inspecting below the car of that area. I might want to check for boot lock function as well.

Probably need to open the rear bumper to see any internal damage.

Only this side have coolant mark, seems like after change the radiator upper hose last month only start.

Any advice on this? Going to drive highway 2 hours is that ok? City drive temperature remain the same, i found out is due to spare tank watet reduce.

Change the seal? Top casing or whole radiator? What about thermostat need to change? Last change is 2023. Lower hose also not change yet.

Due to not enough time sent for this work, plan to do next month. Hope is ok.

Slow leak like this should be ok. Just watch at the temperature gauge closely, and don't rev high rpm.



Something related to my car. Anyone decat here that would like to offer your 2 cents? My FC become very bad after decat. On gutted cat con now.