Likely drive shaft

Hi, does anybody know where I can do full exhaust system (from extractor to muffler). Reliable and good quality asked Speedzone nobody response. Thank you

RPM more than 1k after start the engine, feeling choking awhile awhile in between. Anyone facing the same problem like me?

For my car it's usually throttle body as it gets dirty very often. Based on your service record, you can always check for idling issues first such as spark plugs, air filter, or worse, sensors and others.

After flushing brake fluid and change brake pad, now the reservoir tank cover leak again.

Few years back also like this, no matter how tight it leak bit by bit.
Maybe cos i drive up down the carpark ramp everyday?

Try unscrew it, lay the membrane nice nice, and screw back nicely. Last time when i had a leaky brake fluid reservoir, it was because of the cap wasn't screwed in with proper alignment to the thread. It looks normal but you will feel the difference when you unscrew & screw back properly.

If all is still the same, i guess you have to change the cap. It's available on shopee.

Thanks, bro. Seems working, let me monitor few more day.

Waste of my brake fluid, i have throw out some, as some say leak is due to overflow. So I purposely make it lower than Max line.

Thanks for opinion given.
Spark plugs had been changed, seems like not the root cause.
May be some sensors or throttle body cleaning needed

Can clean throttle body first. Get one cleaner from Mr DIY, use a flat head screw to loosen the intake case, and spray at the butterfly sparingly. If you OCD, then can ask someone to help put foot on accelerator pedal, depress fully and turn key to on position without cranking, butterfly will open fully and your finger can go in to wipe/spray more carburetor cleaner.

You didn't put disclaimer, the butterfly plate would shut close within 8 sec like that. Very dangerous the closing force is big and may injured the finger!

Errrr... I thought it will keep open as long as someone is still depressing the pedal.

Sorry about that.

Toyota one will keep open, my Proton Gen2 will shut close very fast, I knew this because I'm using this method to clean throttle body. Keep repeating and do it real fast before the throttle plate shut closed...

Don't have my PE with me now to verify. It will be in workshop for next 2 weeks or so for engine and cooling system restoration. Oil leak from all 3 crankshaft and camshafts, leading to swollen timing belts, jammed thermostat and rusty radiator casing, with coolants seeping out of all joints plus broken radiator cover during air conditioner technician revving engine hard to test if coolant temperature indicator not tally with actual coolant temp.

Got a clogged catalytic converter here. Anyone has same issue and provide your opinion either to decat or get a new one?

How to know the catalytic converter was clogged?
I knew for Korean make it'll will show the engine fault light, their catalytic converter always broken into shattering pieces inside.

Ok will avoid korean one then. Thanks bro.

Restoring my engine as crankshaft & camshaft oil seal leaking oil even with new seal. Workshop noticed clogged catcon while assembling it back.

To be precise it's Korean car maker, I knew coz I have Kia Cerato and joined their FB group, wow the amount of catalytic converter issue popping up can versus Honda's steering rack, lol. Never seen such thing for our Proton cars, very rare.

The engine clocked 600,000km. According to the workshop the catalytic converter outlasted the usual lifespan of its peer.

To be honest it's really struggling. To go for aftermarket "high flow" cat or get a new one.

Guys, my brake master pump leaking near the join at booster there, but is like almost few weeks once, the fluid level no drop, but can notice a stain on floor.

Is that the problem of brake master pump seal or the booster also related?

If change master pump, is there any different like TRW, china OEM & Original?

Thing with booster is there's a diaphragm inside which if soaked long in brake fluid, it'll go bad.

I'll go for a check first, then depends on situation or wallet decide if you want TRW or Original. As long as rubber component involved, i believe original is better. But no wrong to go OEM one, TRW is reliable brand.