According to a friend who is a lawyer and also a cyclist, it is actually a concession from the authorities to give this issue an oversight and legally, it is not right for cyclists to cycle there but risk is largely mitigated by having a barrier and a separate lane from the high speed vehicles

True and based on the Malaysia Road handbook... a bicycle is still considered as a transport and must abide by the road rules... so, yes... there's still grey areas surrounding it.

This post has been edited by aquilaTE: Feb 25 2019, 11:38 AM

Hi guys,

I am planning to buy my very first road bike.

1. My budget is around 5K. Any particular brand and model that i should look out for when i go to the shops?

2. And i come across a couple of brands, CAMP and ALCOTT, that seems a very good value bike with complete R7000 groupset. Any feedback on both of this brands? are they good enough for an entry bike and maybe with a wheelset upgrade and saddle upgrade later?

thanks

If anyone uses Shimano 105 r7000, be caution about the left shifter. Mine started to shows and i did a video to fix it here.

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mCwvDtRw8U

As you said, good value bike for CAMP and ALCOTT brand. So far, I hear no problems too.

I can recommend you go to Turbomad shop KL to get your first bike. I just had my bike serviced there. Free helmet, bottle and some accessories which can help you save some money. Also, bike fitting is available to help you cycle better and have less body pain.

If you have decided, let me know. Maybe I can help you get discount. No guarantees though. Find Turbomad cycle in FB.

Latest upgrades... same model but most importantly something about the arm not the chainring.

Power meter? Just guessing...

This post has been edited by aquilaTE: Feb 27 2019, 09:46 AM

Nope, among all lines of road bike and mtb crankset only the 105 R7000 has 160mm crank length for shorty rider. Originally i'm using 170mm but after switched to 160mm i felt like greek god on wheels!. Special order outside malaysia since i can't find any agent that could supply shorty crankset. After one month of usage my cadence improve, it felt extremely fast! and no more leg fatigue or feel tired. I don't have to strugglee with 'peak stroke' since my pedal radius is now smaller and because of that seatpost gets higher for stroke comfort. Fit perfect! Now i can ride hard 6 days instead of 4 days.







This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Feb 27 2019, 10:45 AM

ah i thought so,
the crank looks shorter

btw, im also using mtb clipless on my bike

Ah ok... didn't realized that. I must have mistook that piece of paper on the crank for a power meter... lol

How tall are you? I am 160cm and also switched from 170mm to 165mm

I'm 158cm. I did test 165mm crank length on women specialized size bike but didn't feel good because of peak stroke was bad. 160mm was spot on for me, i cadence a lot.

Did you do any adjustment to your bike fitting after the change? What was your before/after cadence?

Yes, i have to adjust the seat higher by extra around 10mm, my toe barely reach the ground but that setup give me comfort. The 'reach' to handle slightly become longer so i had to change to zero off-set seatpost so i can push my saddle forward. I don't know how u guys measure cadence but all i know from observation my cadence is twice faster than before because now my pedal radius become smaller. So fast its easy to catch up with car or lorry down the highway. But there's cons to shorter 160mm crank is it lack of 'leverage'. So when you try to pedal off/out the seat for extra torque with bigger chainring it won't work well. Its best to stay seated and pedal but i'm ok with that. Oh btw i notice that small cranks is very lightweight maybe around 15g difference.

I also moved by seat post higher by a bit, but besides crank length I also changed from a 53/39 to a 52/36 chain so it's a bit hard to judge which of these contribute to the difference (if any). I somehow still prefer cycling at 80-85 rpm. Aiming to get around 90 but dont feel comfortable or efficient enough.

Hi All,


have question.. for Ultergra R8000.. how big the rear cassette can be upgraded when using the standard short throw derailleurs

The bike came with 11-28 gearset, thinking want to upgrade into 32 if possible without change to medium/long throw derailleurs

One more thing, anyone here using SPD for MTB on their road bike?, using Keo Pedal and Cleat for RB.. seems still too difficult to release during emergency stop, some say the MTB clip pedal is easier to release...

tq guys/girls

I'm running from 52/36 to 50/34 because i live in hilly area. I dont have any meters but i measures my performance based feel of my stress on my legs daily but i keep my pace constant through every cassette and chaining. All i knew this month since i changed my crank length i never felt tired and still can go on next day and day after. I ride mountain bike on 170mm crank it it felt huge plunge of performance even with 44~22 chainring. Since now the bike can go faster optimal with my leg my next upgrade will be the tire.....huge feeling wanted to go for Pirelli P-ZERO this week.





I ride MTB spd clip on my road bike...highly recommended. Easy to engage and sprint out from traffic light without thinking. Easy to exit out too.

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Feb 28 2019, 11:01 AM

Based on the Shimano's website... the Short cage(SS) can only go up to 30T.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/comp...D-R8000-SS.html


I'm currently using MTB clipless as well...

im using shimano 105
i change from 11-25 to 11-32t
i just use a goatlink; and keep everything else even the chain

using a goatlink extends ur RD slightly down so the RD can shift to the biggest sprocket (32t)

/ im also using mtb clipless on my RB; both my bike (mtb & rb) using 1 system, i senang hati

I think we have similar body profile. The downside is finding a bike that suits our height. It's so hard to find 700c bike !