greetings..i have a quite noob question here...many cars installed this voltage stabilizer. How does it worked and is it effective and can be used on all cars??

i have a nissan vanette..the new type model..can it be installed to the car too?? any effect on it??

yeap... can be installed in any car that has a battery...
nope, no side effect.... its either giving u some improvement in stabilizing the voltage or do nothing at all....

stabilizing the voltage?? so no improvement in the FC or speed then??

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Added on May 18, 2007, 9:01 pmoh...and how much does it cost to hv it installed??

This post has been edited by darkstaryouth: May 18 2007, 09:01 PM

It depends. There's this Zaptor Gold version, costs around Rm100 and there's this Pivot Blue Raizin, which costs around RM150. There's also others, and it all depends on your budget.

so...where can i have those..brother's??

Voltage stabilizer is only meant for LOCALLY MADE MALAYSIAN car and Japanese car for Asian market...most imported car already got Voltage Stabilizer..(which include my imported KIA Sephia i guess...hee-hee)
...read this.

Malaysia is so damn famous for cheap no quality cars even gwei loh know about this....MALAYSIA BOLEH!!!!

http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible.html
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Voltage stabilisers and grounding kits

voltage stabiliser Status : Untested, but I've been in contact with the manufacturer
I've seen a few websites kicking around that advertised massive benefits in fitting their voltage stabilisers and grounding kits to vehicles. Votech Performance is one such company. Their doublespeak (in very poor English by the way) is technically correct. If you connect a car alternator directly to the battery and run all the electrical circuits off it, then you're going to be subject to high-frequency noise in the power supply as well as fluctuations in voltage due to engine loading. They're also correct in asserting that a voltage stabiliser kit and some decent grounding connections will help minimise these issues. What they fail to mention on their website is that almost every new car on the market today (and probably since the mid 90's) has a voltage stabiliser in it. Basically it's a collection of passive components (ie. that draw no power) like capacitors, arranged such that any voltage spikes can be capped off, and the high frequency noise can be reduced. For the grounding wires, check under the hood of your car. Those gigantic copper braided cables connecting the battery and engine to the body of the car and the fusebox are your grounding cables. Pretty significant sized cables too. The reason for these bits is the ECU - vehicle manufacturers don't want random power fluctuations reaching the sensitive electronic components in the engine management system. By default, the inclusion of any sort of chip-based engine management means the manufacturer must include voltage stabilisation in their electrical system. So - outfits like Votech are entirely correct in their assertions, but miss out the important fact that your car already has the stuff they're selling.
However in July 2006, Votech contacted me directly to address some of my comments here. What wasn't clear from their website, but has been made clear since, is that Votech's target market is for local Malaysian-built cars, Korean cars (except for Kia and the Hyundai Sonata which has voltage noise suppression from the factory) and Japanese cars for the Asian market. It seems the standards of manufacture with their vehicles are so poor that the electrical systems are all over the place, and there's a lot of difference between Japanese cars for the west versus those for the Asian markets. What Votech are selling is basically what the Malaysian manufacturers don't put in their vehicles as standard but what we in the "west" take for granted. Their marketing guru told me "We advise our customers before we sell to them. Customers who driving BMW, Merc, Audi, Fiat, VW and other continental cars are advised that our product isn't necessary. If a customer insists they want it, then we will proceed with the installation."
OK so now with that in mind, when we look at the claims, whilst they read pretty poorly to anyone with an American, Japanese or European car, I can imagine for Votech's target market they might actually make sense. Votech tell me that they can provide anyone who asks with independent lab results gained from dyno testing.

* Increased Torque - how? Votech claim that the better voltage response in the low tension circuit results in better response in the high tension circuit. This could result in a more powerful spark which might give a better burn in the combustion chamber. It's possible on Malaysian-built cars then that this would result in more torque.
* Better throttle response - this is all to do with how the engine sensors read their data and send it back to the ECU. If they're getting crappy, noisy voltage, then the readings being sent back to the ECU could be all over the place, meaning it could have trouble generating good throttle position information from the engine map. If the sensors are allowed to do their work properly, the ECU might be able to do a better job of mapping it all out, and the result could be better throttle response.
* Brighter headlights - this could be true except their product would need to be generating either more than 12v or higher current. Well again you need to look at it from the perspective of their target market. If their cars have headlights that get brighter the more you rev the engine, then Votech's product could stabilise the voltage and give a more consistent light output.
* Improved audio quality - now this one I could go with, especially if you listen to AM radio. But again, most modern Euro, Japanese and American cars have stabilisation and noise-suppression built into the factory 12v system.
* Improved Fuel Efficiency. Fuel efficiency would seem to have nothing to do with the 12v electrical system. But technically, the alternator is in the 12v electrical system, and load on the alternator can affect fuel efficiency by adding mechanical drag to the engine. The more load on the electrical system, the more drag in the alternator. The difference between a shoddy 12v system and a decent one can be up to 3% in fuel efficiency.
* Colder air-con - this is a bit of a wild claim. The a/c compressor is belt-driven off the engine crank. The only electrical component is the fan that blows the air into the car, and that doesn't make the air colder, it just moves it around. However Votech reported to me that they did get a 2°C drop in temperature coming out of the vents on their Alfa test vehicles. Quite why this would be, I don't know.

This post has been edited by Matrix: May 18 2007, 10:07 PM

It for universal car.. If you get fake pivot, confirm got side effect.. Buy original..

It got improve FC. Depend the car either is carb or EFI.. You buy the VS already, then you can install it your on.. Just put according negative and positive sign.

You can buy from our forumer mah.. Kinda cheap compare with outside..

If you're staying around Subang/Sunway and wished to get Pivot VS, just head down to N1 Racing in Sunway and get the Pivot VS from them. They are the authorised distributor, so, you can confirm it's original.

can get pivot+GK from micwin1437 forumer...

whop finally votech's powaaaaa myth has been broken.

how much does a pivot VS cost?? and i here at ipoh?? know anywhere can get those?? original 1?? is those claims of pivots are just a myth or tru??

I've used VS on both of my car before. Did not notice any change in performance, only less vibration when idling, thats all. So that made me very skeptical about this VS thing. Just my 2 cents.

increment is vr minimal, especially in older carburetorred engines... fuel injection has better effect, but minimal as well...

Car performance improvement is very minimum but increase performaance in battery life, brightness of head lights & ICE performances; all the above due to better efficientcy in alternator charging during high alternator drain(multi-task) at lower rpm range(espeacially Auto cars) ie on 'D' gear in traffic jam, wipers on, head lights on, brake lights on & ICE also on full blast. Your existing standard alternator will not be able to churn the juice for your requirements at 700 to 800rpm, this extreame stress will kill your 60 to 70amp OEM alternator faster than normal.

agreed, my in car inverter on full load trips whenever the car AC kicks in and causes a dip in RPM and power. revving it to 1.5k rpm solves the problem

really can reduce vibration when idling? wat brand you use, can recommend to all of us? got any picture? can upload?

this elaborate everything to me is that means when i upgrade my ICE i should change the alternator too...?

Nice useful info.

What Japanese cars need this? Toyota?

agree dat..hehe