Hi all, any idea what's the light bulb model for our Iriz signal light?

My Iriz (1.3 CVT 2015 model) encountering this issue where the ESC light suddenly comes on while driving and totally lose acceleration power. Tekan minyak but engine no response. Need to restart engine then everything back to normal.

Went to Senaxis service center for checking, they didn't manage to fully check today (too many customers) so they ask me to go back again. But currently they suspect is issue with gearbox. Roughly what they said is when I go back they will:

1. Check gearbox condition by looking for metal shavings/dust in the gearbox and see condition of gearbox oil
2. If gearbox issue, they will need to do oil levelling and clutch adaptation.
3. If the clutch adaptation does not work, then GG cos the process will cause my car to totally not moveable and will need to change gearbox. Around RM10k for new ori gearbox, RM5k for recon.

Point 3 is the thing that concerns me. I googled and saw that clutch adaptation is apparently a basic process that is supposed to be done everytime there's a change of gearbox oil. But according to them it sounds like some major risky process that can totally destroy my gearbox.

I'm planning of going to another service center for a second opinion to make sure I'm not being played.

Anyone has any advise or encounter similar issue before? Thanks in advance.

i previously owned a CVT proton. Clutch adaptation can be done on your own. It resolves the jerkiness when moving from D to R or vice versa.

But i have not experienced your issue

Yeah, that's what I understood as well after googling. That's why I felt weird from the way they said it, that if clutch adaptation does not work, then your car cannot move d and need to total replace the gearbox.

My persona 2016 kena the same, symptoms starts after 150k+ km release brake from complete stop the car won't move forward. Go SC change cvt oil/ filter clutch adaptions the car working fine until 160k+ km. Then every morning drive around 1 km the car will free gear with esc, brake, cvt light comes out, restart can drive 1 whole day no problem but next day problem come back. Went 3 different sc paid to clear the error code but couldn't solves problem.

The scanned dtc problem code is P01765 secondary pulley low pressure, being asked to change the gearbox rm4000(recon) rm9000(new) or sent the gearbox to overhaul rm5000. Didn't proceed as worry spend few thousands couldn't solves problem. Eventually problem solves by changing the cvt oil again and putting in x1r cvt treatment, but the problem not completely solves as sometimes the cvt logo and engine light will comes out but no more scary middle drive free gear problem.

The root of the problem either the clutch plate inside the gearbox or the cvt clutch damper flywheel lost grip ady. If u read the iriz or persona vvt facebook community, a lots of owner kena the same problem. That's why new saga proton change back to conventional 4AT gearbox which cheaper to change atf oil more frequent to prevent gearbox failing.

All your symptoms are similar to my family car, last gen HRV. Starring from sometimes jerkiness at random to few times, send SC was told to change cvt oil again and earlier than mileage recommended. That time is at 98k km, another 3 months b4 warranty ended. Around at 5 years 5 months, pop up the cvt light, car already can't move, the belt already burst inside.

Ask famous cvt workshop at YouTube, they need rm6k for 6 months warranty or rm9k for 1 year warranty. Send other place at rm4k for the belt replacement.

Summary, after hit 100k km, standby for the belt to worn out or bust. Thats the CVT drawback vs normal auto with proper gear.

My mileage is not that high though, 57k only. But it might have something to do with my car hitting a speed bump kinda hard as problem started after that incident.

But thanks for confirming that this is a common issue, was afraid it was the workshop trying to pull a fast one on me. I guess I'll go back to the same service center again for them to further check and see what's the problem. Or do you think it's better to straight send to the place you did rm4k belt replacement (Summer Auto Transmission) for them to check there?

Hi all, I already changed my key fob battery, but the key battery low warning sign still appear on my instrument panel, how do I get rid of it?

Hi, i wanna ask question to all.

Recently my car kaput during driving on highway at speed limit 100-110kmh, car just die and wont start, so i slowly moved to emergency lane while the car is still moving.

After towed to certain shop which i familiar with, they checked Fuel Pump and crankshaft sensor, which both of it is working fine.

so my suspect is BCM/wiring RIP, anyone read or encounter similar case as mine? i towed back my car to my house as the shop doesn't do/check wiring and it's right before CNY.


Forgot to mention, the result of their investigation is that somehow my car doesn't produced spark required for combustion, it happen to all plug.

This post has been edited by babisotong: Feb 16 2024, 11:05 AM

alarm system immobilizers

sure a? i kena last time immo xkawtim, cant even crank it..

If all 4 spark plug, ignition coil working fine, It could be map sensor very dirty covered by oil gunk. Then check oxygen sensor, fuel filter. If got engine light appeared, can use obd scan to get the exact problem.

the problem is as i mentioned it before, zero error code.

Already tested the coil, it's good, test injector it's good, fuel pump it's good.

compression test is not great however all of them got compression ( 8/10/12/12 )

so now i towed to reliable workshop to do proper checking on everything. finger cross, intake valve RIP instead of piston RIP, i can't rebore anymore, bore too big already.

This post has been edited by babisotong: Feb 21 2024, 10:14 AM

If your car mileage high like >150K km like my car (close to 190k km), It could be intake manifold/map sensor too dirty covered by gunk. Install an oil catch tank between the hose from engine cover to intake manifold side will help the car runs smoother. High mileage car with worn piston rings will creates too much blowby that will oil gunk the spark plugs too.

your car probably stock ( my car currently 240k km, rebuilt around 60k km/3 years ago ), already installed proper catch can since then, no trace of EO inside catch can.

so far, no white smoke nor blue smoke, no EO excessive fuel consumption.. so now had no idea, hopefully ( pray to god ) that it's just severe/bad valve.

This post has been edited by babisotong: Feb 21 2024, 02:56 PM

Just change brake fluid, first engin start ok test drive and reverse for a moment.

Then on 2nd attempt engine fail to crank, had loud "tak" sound durian light appear for few second then abs and traction control.
check engin seem ok, nothing loose.

3rd attempt engine fail to crank also with "tak" noise, no durian light, only abs and traction control for 1-2second.

appreciate any help.

probably your batery kong, try 'jump' if you are brave or call batery ku untk test, IF you tried to crank and yet it doesnt do it, u got issue with immo, IF it's manual car which i think not since got 'durian' it can just be brake switch.

This post has been edited by babisotong: Feb 29 2024, 08:09 AM

Problem solved, the issue is with the trigger wheel(I got a few more details which I already forgot), the weird thngy is that no error related on trigger wheel wrong reading/data..

Wow good to hear that, so punca is the trigger wheel gives crank sensor wrong signal kah...how much repair fees kena?

Hi guys. Just got my Iriz recently. Just in time before the new tax kicks in. Drives really well and enjoying it right now.

I've been searching a lot but could not find a way to install HUR on this version. Seems like it's a newer more locked down version of the firmware. No file manager to sideload the apk. Am I out of luck and an android headunit is required or is there a way to salvage this?