underexposure
- lower shutter speed, i.e. from 1/1000 change to 1/500
- increase aperture size, i.e. from f5.6 change to f3.5
- increase flash power, i.e. from -1EV to 0EV
- increase ISO, i.e. from ISO200 change to ISO400

overexposure
- increase shutter speed
- lower aperture size
- decrease flash power
- decrease ISO

maybe u should also try to understand more of how the camera work...
or have u try reading the Instruction Manual before that comes together wif the camera?

*btw...just my 2cents - refering to ur soon-2-get-gear. 70-300mm and 18-200mm are two lens wif half of the range overlapping, i.e. 70-200mm
why dun u instead replace 18-200mm wif a 18-70mm range lens instead?
also instead of eyeing for the VR, a lens wif large aperture such as f/2.8 would provide u wif a better bokeh on the photos...

if money is no matter to u, of coz i would suggest the following Nikon lens:
- 70-200mm VR f/2.8
- 28-70mm f/2.8

This post has been edited by karwaidotnet: May 11 2007, 07:48 AM

gahh...

guys,
EV means Exposure Value.

facts:
- CCD/CMOS receives light from the subject to produce the photo.
- no enough light receives will leads to underexpose photo,
- too much light receives will leads to overexpose photo.

as i mentioned previously to xandman,
shutter speed, aperture, ISO, flash affects the exposure of the photo.
(the four factors which u can control on the camera. other factors would include external factors such as reflector, the sun, the moon, softbox, and other external source of light)

thus, changing your EV value WILL surely change:
- shutter speed when u're using A (aperture) priority.
- aperture size when u're using S (shutter) priority
- ISO range when u set your ISO mode at Auto.
- flash when u change the flash EV manually (if u notice, ur camera would have two EV value. one for the camera sensor, CCD/CMOS, another one for the built-in/attached flash).
* the only time ur shutter speed and aperture size does not change as of when u change the EV value is when u use the M (Manual) mode.
** ISO value will not change when u selected the required value at your camera menu settings, i.e. set to ISO200 and it will stay that way permanently till u change it again.

if just changing the EV wont affect the shutter speed / aperture / ISO, why we still need VR???

do i need to explain why u guys need VR? or IS? or AS? or any other brand camera technology that help reduce handshake...

This post has been edited by karwaidotnet: May 11 2007, 10:12 PM

GAH...HAHAHAHA...
sorry...i just had to laugh at such noob statement...

aichiban: EV adjustment is use to adjust or override what is being meter by ur camera in A/S mode. camera metering is just a device to measure. it does not "know" what exact exposure u really wan. so wif EV adjustment aka EV Compensation, u override the camera metering and snap the photo u wan wif the exposure u wan to achieve. get it?

---

Added on May 13, 2007, 8:41 pmdepends...

but it can be done wif ur flash...
external flash preferably...

look at this pic say for example.

*ken: borrow ur photo for awhile ok...will remove it after few days later..

no HDR. the sky is brigther than the model and if u were to expose the sky, the model will be in total darkness...if u expose the model, the sky will be in pure white color.

but this photo shows both the foreground and background detail clearly.

why?

Flash.

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Added on May 13, 2007, 8:48 pmat least someone here knows something about his camera...

This post has been edited by karwaidotnet: May 13 2007, 08:54 PM

glad that u understand...
sorry i hope i didnt offend u...
didnt mean too...

cjtune: as i mentioned earlier on..."DEPENDS".

however, at reasonable range, it can be resolve.
for the photo i took as an example,
i believe wif couple of reflectors, few more flashs, preferably softbox...perhaps,
should solve those harsh shadows problem...

*IMHO, i can already see the flower is shot wif some use of external light as there's highlight at few spots of the flower, the shadow is at the wrong place and the light looks kinda...doesn't seems like from the sun.

the use of a reflector is a better alternative here...as it would be more diffuse and the light bounce back to the flower is still from the sun itself. thus making it more natural.

This post has been edited by karwaidotnet: May 13 2007, 10:35 PM

from this statement i think u still not fully understand what cjtune has explanined...
if u cant understand the word metering, let's make it to become another word - MEASUREMENT.

if u wan to measure the whole frame then let the camera average out the exposure - u use matrix.

if u wan to measure just the center of the frame, u use center-weighted.

if u wan to measure a specific dot on the frame, u use spot / partial.

so if u wan to measure a subject against a bright background, first determine what u wan to measure?
if u wan the subject to be fully expose, ignoring the background, the use 'something' to measure that subject.

what is this something? can u answer this now?

This post has been edited by karwaidotnet: May 14 2007, 07:48 AM

OK...but i dont think the word "averages" sounds correct.

Quoted from the D70 Manual:
average is like measuring every part equally.
but here it is actually like it'll put more emphasis or more biased towards the center.

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Added on May 14, 2007, 8:56 pmfor me - its true.
u have PASS on the basic of camera metering.

This post has been edited by karwaidotnet: May 14 2007, 08:56 PM

cannot try it out now mehh???
just take something at ur house - a book, a figurine, ur cat, ur brother, ur sister and try take a photo of them/it lahh...

wcling,
i have asked them to read the manual...
but i guess the manual kinda scared them away from it...

yes. u may also sometimes get HI

LO - means the current setting u've config wont even let ur camera able to see a thing
HI - too bright lohh...

a very easy way to get LO, startup ur camera, but let ur lens cap on.

again this is only applicable for P/A/S...
but not for M.

This post has been edited by karwaidotnet: May 15 2007, 09:45 PM