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 D40 underexposed?!, need help from sifus!!!

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clemong_888
post May 10 2007, 10:23 PM

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look at your histogram.... and thts what ev is for..
clemong_888
post May 10 2007, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(xandman @ May 10 2007, 10:28 PM)
but i can only check the histogram after shooting it...
i have no real time histogram...
anyway thanks for the lead...
btw...ev is the exposure value rite?
so when it is dark we should increase it n vice versa izzit?
i also found out that my pics underexposes when shooting indoor...with flourescent / incandescent lights....
any help to improve exposure?
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why do u need real time histogram? after shoot, see the histogram, if under, shoot again lo...
clemong_888
post May 11 2007, 10:27 PM

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QUOTE(ac98 @ May 11 2007, 12:29 PM)
I heard even the EOS 5D also cannot do this ... why can't they put it in semi-pro or entry level DSLRs? It makes exposure control easier and I dun find this feature very 'professional' also? What about Nikon pro models? Can they +/- EV without affecting currect Shutter/Aperture value?
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EV will change your shutter/aperture in A,S,P and other modes. but it wont change in M. that i'm pretty sure for my d70s. AC, your 1D can change EV without affecting aperture/shutter in A or S?
clemong_888
post May 12 2007, 09:01 AM

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QUOTE(ac98 @ May 12 2007, 02:07 AM)
I dun remember the last time I use Av or Tv, haha! But at Av or Tv the values will change as you go up or down the Ev bar, they should change to correspond with the final exposure setting.
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hehe.. then its all the same la.
clemong_888
post May 12 2007, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(cjtune @ May 12 2007, 11:53 AM)
Yup, I now review all of my shots with histogram.

Even though your pics may look darkish or overly-bright in the LCD (LCD also has its own brightness and contrast, BTW), as long as most of your histogram(s) is between the upper and lower limits you still have a lot of leeway later to adjust the photo via Photoshop or your RAW converter.

In high-contrast scenes, you must make the choice between either sacrificing the bright areas or the dark areas as you cannot fit the entire histogram within limits for any one exposure. If a still pic, you can take multiple shots of different exposures and assemble as a High Dynamic Range photo later.
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histograms in old cameras arent rgb... so not perfect as well.
clemong_888
post May 12 2007, 01:43 PM

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QUOTE(cjtune @ May 12 2007, 01:39 PM)
Even with the ability to review all 3 colour channels' histograms, you may not have the time to retake and retake until all 3 colours' exposure is acceptable. Normally, all 3 colours' distribution will follow one another very similarly. A cursory glance at just one colours' or the 'overall' histogram should suffice and better than none...
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the histogram in my d70s only shows green. so its almost useless when i shoot red.
clemong_888
post May 15 2007, 07:07 AM

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QUOTE(wlcling @ May 14 2007, 11:59 PM)
actually, interestingly enough, wouldn't all these metering be covered in the DSLR manual?
(i'm not the boss, but i try answering anyway yah)
You've got the theory right, the relative darkness and brightness sounds correct, but when you spot the flag, it should actually be turning out "just nice" rather than a bit dark.  rolleyes.gif


Added on May 15, 2007, 12:02 amactually for your info, i use metering ala KRW (kenrockwell) style. Read it up while looking through his reviews but not sure if it applies to all DSLR makes.

Matrix metering all the time, where i then instead change E/V to get a different exposure.
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i'm definitely a spot metering dude. zone system is pretty interesting.
clemong_888
post May 16 2007, 06:40 AM

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QUOTE(garyeow @ May 15 2007, 11:55 PM)
wow, interesting topic, I too dont know exactly what the heck is this 'LO' thing until i read this thread. very informative.
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it's all in the manual...

 

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