look at your histogram.... and thts what ev is for..
D40 underexposed?!, need help from sifus!!!
D40 underexposed?!, need help from sifus!!!
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May 10 2007, 10:23 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
2,502 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Kuching,Kuala Lumpur, Gifu,Japan |
look at your histogram.... and thts what ev is for..
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May 10 2007, 10:44 PM
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#2
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2,502 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Kuching,Kuala Lumpur, Gifu,Japan |
QUOTE(xandman @ May 10 2007, 10:28 PM) but i can only check the histogram after shooting it... why do u need real time histogram? after shoot, see the histogram, if under, shoot again lo...i have no real time histogram... anyway thanks for the lead... btw...ev is the exposure value rite? so when it is dark we should increase it n vice versa izzit? i also found out that my pics underexposes when shooting indoor...with flourescent / incandescent lights.... any help to improve exposure? |
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May 11 2007, 10:27 PM
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#3
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2,502 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Kuching,Kuala Lumpur, Gifu,Japan |
QUOTE(ac98 @ May 11 2007, 12:29 PM) I heard even the EOS 5D also cannot do this ... why can't they put it in semi-pro or entry level DSLRs? It makes exposure control easier and I dun find this feature very 'professional' also? What about Nikon pro models? Can they +/- EV without affecting currect Shutter/Aperture value? EV will change your shutter/aperture in A,S,P and other modes. but it wont change in M. that i'm pretty sure for my d70s. AC, your 1D can change EV without affecting aperture/shutter in A or S? |
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May 12 2007, 09:01 AM
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#4
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2,502 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Kuching,Kuala Lumpur, Gifu,Japan |
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May 12 2007, 01:23 PM
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#5
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2,502 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Kuching,Kuala Lumpur, Gifu,Japan |
QUOTE(cjtune @ May 12 2007, 11:53 AM) Yup, I now review all of my shots with histogram. histograms in old cameras arent rgb... so not perfect as well.Even though your pics may look darkish or overly-bright in the LCD (LCD also has its own brightness and contrast, BTW), as long as most of your histogram(s) is between the upper and lower limits you still have a lot of leeway later to adjust the photo via Photoshop or your RAW converter. In high-contrast scenes, you must make the choice between either sacrificing the bright areas or the dark areas as you cannot fit the entire histogram within limits for any one exposure. If a still pic, you can take multiple shots of different exposures and assemble as a High Dynamic Range photo later. |
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May 12 2007, 01:43 PM
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2,502 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Kuching,Kuala Lumpur, Gifu,Japan |
QUOTE(cjtune @ May 12 2007, 01:39 PM) Even with the ability to review all 3 colour channels' histograms, you may not have the time to retake and retake until all 3 colours' exposure is acceptable. Normally, all 3 colours' distribution will follow one another very similarly. A cursory glance at just one colours' or the 'overall' histogram should suffice and better than none... the histogram in my d70s only shows green. so its almost useless when i shoot red. |
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May 15 2007, 07:07 AM
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#7
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2,502 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Kuching,Kuala Lumpur, Gifu,Japan |
QUOTE(wlcling @ May 14 2007, 11:59 PM) actually, interestingly enough, wouldn't all these metering be covered in the DSLR manual? i'm definitely a spot metering dude. zone system is pretty interesting.(i'm not the boss, but i try answering anyway yah) You've got the theory right, the relative darkness and brightness sounds correct, but when you spot the flag, it should actually be turning out "just nice" rather than a bit dark. Added on May 15, 2007, 12:02 amactually for your info, i use metering ala KRW (kenrockwell) style. Read it up while looking through his reviews but not sure if it applies to all DSLR makes. Matrix metering all the time, where i then instead change E/V to get a different exposure. |
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May 16 2007, 06:40 AM
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#8
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2,502 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Kuching,Kuala Lumpur, Gifu,Japan |
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