Outline ·
[ Standard ] ·
Linear+
[V31] Lowyat.Net Mechanical Keyboard Club
|
SSJBen
|
Aug 27 2018, 07:17 PM
|
|
QUOTE(x-1o8-x @ Aug 26 2018, 06:05 PM) best way to learn touch type is to get blank keycaps  QUOTE(horns @ Aug 26 2018, 10:46 PM) imo the best way is typing with eyes on screen, and let your fingers do the job. When I was a 9-year old kid, I went to private computer classes and the tutor had a ruler in her hand - she would hit my fingers with it if I look down on the keyboard while typing out those gibberish "learn to type" softwares. I learnt to completely touch type within 2 weeks. I reached 90wpm within the month. Gila tutor but blessing in disguise I guess. This post has been edited by SSJBen: Aug 27 2018, 07:20 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Sep 26 2018, 01:08 PM
|
|
Absolutely 100% agree about Filco being amazing out of the box. Their only downside are the stock keycaps which are ABS, but throw in some good PBT one and the Majestouch is really a majestic typing experience. Upgrading from a Filco is difficult because there aren't many that matches them in quality so it's really down to nit picky preference.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
May 2 2019, 04:03 PM
|
|
Because Msian market rather buy trash quality than some decent ones. Filco, Ducky, all cannot tahan get out of the market.
Too bad but that's what happens when the mentality is cheap first > marketing > everything else > quality.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Nov 20 2019, 04:34 PM
|
|
Bought a Leopold FC750R out of impulse during 11.11 sales, was pretty cheap. But unfortunately, half the red keys came with the infamous "pinging" sound that Cherry is known for - meaning they weren't lubed properly.
Darn. Damn lazy to open every switch to lube.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Nov 20 2019, 05:18 PM
|
|
QUOTE(quovadis123 @ Nov 20 2019, 05:15 PM) Desolder all and redo all the lubing. But, this pinging is related to their steel plate and spring, you can put some foam to reduce ping. You sure? The pinging is from the spring within the switches that resonates with the shaft no? There's already foam (not dense enough though) on the underside of all Leopold boards.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Nov 22 2019, 05:09 PM
|
|
Finally lubed all the red switches, jeez that took some time and was so boring to do. No more any of that infamous scratchy Cherry feel and no more pinging, it wasn't the steel plate to begin with.
This post has been edited by SSJBen: Nov 22 2019, 05:09 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Nov 22 2019, 06:53 PM
|
|
QUOTE(niakulah @ Nov 22 2019, 05:14 PM) Where do you get your lube? I use Shin-etsu (G40m) silicone grease that I have left over from building my arcade sticks, yes I know it's not the standard krytox GPL most people use but I just didn't feel like going to source for it. Bought the shin-etsu from Japan long time ago.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Nov 22 2019, 11:52 PM
|
|
QUOTE(irsyadfy @ Nov 22 2019, 07:08 PM) so u use grease. can ask where u lube the switches? including springs? The spring, shaft pole (where the spring goes) and the side wall of the switch stem. Well aware that krytox GPL is better as it's less viscosity though.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Nov 23 2019, 10:11 PM
|
|
QUOTE(ck.chunkeat @ Nov 23 2019, 01:27 AM) for me, personally i feel like there's 3 states. After the "steady state" that you mentioned, the lubed effect will keep wearing off because the lubes were pushed to the sides. The stem will keep rubbing on the rails and push the lube to the top or bottom. Not to say it is totally gone, it will still be smoother than 0 lube, but it is definitely slowly wearing off, even after the weeks or months. It was particularly obvious on my stabs. it just keeps getting louder and not as smooth. Yes, Krytox ix supposed to be high grade lubricant meant for extreme conditions but i believed it was meant for closed condition and not open condition as how switches and stabs are . Just my opinion based on my experience on 2 different boards, a gateron linear and a topre. I lubed my old AF Majestouch 2's brown keys 2 years ago, today it's still free of the infamous sandy and scratchy feel that browns are known for. I could remove a stem and see that the grease is still there, all fine and dandy. Let's put it this way, if a standard arcade stick (which I also apply grease to on the pivot) can last vigorous usage for 3 years (and yes, you do way more inputs on a lever vs a keyboard) - keyboard switches will last just as long if not even more. They're not exactly the same thing, but their operating concept is similar.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Nov 28 2019, 10:42 PM
|
|
QUOTE(imbibug @ Nov 28 2019, 08:15 PM) It could also be the switch breaking in, the current cherries are said to be more scratchy when new. Any breaking in has already been long broken in. My MJ2 is already 9 years old now.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SSJBen
|
Dec 6 2019, 04:39 PM
|
|
QUOTE(Metallics @ Dec 6 2019, 03:24 PM) Guys, I have a Tesoro Durandal keyboard that is not working anymore (due to wiring USB problem and cannot be repaired) Brown Switch Anyone interested in harvesting the keys? PM me if you're interested and we can arrange further. First time I hear USB wire cannot be repaired. Cut it off and solder a new one?
|
|
|
|
|