based on reviews i read(dont have much money to spend trying one by one),

GMK is the superior one with any kind of stabs(this is b4 C3 stabs came out but i dont think c3 stabs have screw ins)

u can wait for others replies, im just replying coz im bored.

Recommend me a good and affordable mechanical keyboard

C3 sux for pbt keycaps and c3 has screw ins

I read that they are pretty much same quality as GMK. I have them on my XD84PRO but I can't really do a comparison as I've never used GMK ones.

C3 are pretty nice, I have them on my XD24. I don't have PBT keycaps yet, but I hear that the problems with them are actually not that common.

owh ma bad.

n why is it sux?

tekwer fentum ilit

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboard...s_should_i_get/

"Do note that with PBT caps they have problems I think with the caps being too tight and messing up the stabilizer or something like that (please someone else clarify)."

"Avoid PBT with C3 stabilizers."

"Yeah, c3 apparently doesn't like some pbt caps. Things are too tight. They can bind. That's a deal breaker personally."

maybe new batch of c3 stabs they will fix the problem. idk

Some people have had trouble with larger keys (>2U) like spacebar not returning. So far I've only read EPBT mentioned by name. Not sure if other brands of PBT keycaps have this issue.

Anyone interested with ZealPC switch tester? Want to let go mine.. Offer me


Attached thumbnail(s)

Heck no unless you fancy clamping down your PCB and drill holes with CNC, superglueing every hot swap socket to the newly created holes and finally hot wiring the entire switch matrix to the controller by hand.

owh ty for the answers. long time no read bout kibod never came across this.

finally finished all the work for my old reference build of kailh box red/black. (all parts were stock, except for clipped and lubed gmk screw-in stabs)

1. removed previous lube applied to stabs (permatex dielectric grease), and replaced it with krytox gpl 205g0; replaced gmk screw-ins for space bar with c3 r1 stabs; all switches were lubed with pure krytox gpl 105;
2. added 3mm eva foam under steel plate;
3. replaced the pcb (dz60, mini-usb to yd60mq, usb-c);
4. replaced previous 60/40 solder with 63/37 kester (if possible use true 63/37 solders. 60/40 takes relatively more time and patience to desolder and clean up)

in terms of typing experience, it's much better now. the feel is solid, and there is no more audible pings from the steel plate and springs.

as for c3 r1 stabs and its issue with thick pbt key caps for large keys, r2 should have this fixed. for r1, to me, its performance is better than gmk. so, it's easy: just use other key cap sets that are more forgiving. they will work fine. in fact, for this particular build with kailh box red/black, their stems are still stock (the original stem-hole-cracking type). it's working fine with the already-loosened epbt 9009 thick pbt that i have.

if for some reasons you must use thick pbt space bar, you can trim areas that cause the grinding. similar tricks were used when thick cherry profile keys caused grinding with filco's costar stabs many years ago.

It's possible, but, the question is, "is it worth it?", I would say if there's another PCB available that natively supports Kailh/Gateron hot-swap sockets, just get a new PCB.

There are 2 ways to make a normal solder-only PCB hot-swap
1. Use copper eyelets.
Pros: CHEAP and somewhat easy to work with
CONS: They fit loose, like REALLY loose, basically you can almost hold on to your plate and the PCB will fall off. Also, switch pins would need to be bent in a certain angle before inserting so they make contact with the copper eyelets and makes the switch/keyboard work.

2. Use Mill-max sockets
Pros: Solid connection, fits tight just like Kailh/Gateron style hot-swap sockets.
Cons: EXPENSIVE, might as well buy a new hot-swap PCB. Also, fitment is PCB to PCB basis, some PCBs work very well with it, some, might cause the switch to sit a little less flushed to the PCB.

Comparable? Can't say that GMK stabs are 2-3 times better though(coz the price is 2-3 times more). Won't say "Get C3 stabs" coz they are a GB item that's not necessarily easily obtainable once you missed the bus. C3 v1 stuck keycaps is a case per case basis, as horns already put it, just file the stab (instead of the keycap) with a nail file.

I would say Cherry screw-in should be good enough for most builds. Better than the push-fit ones since they are more secured on the PCB.

Haha, well, if he/she is committed to try, I don’t mind providing the coordinates/CAD file for the hot swap holes

this is a better pointer on how to solve it. it's really as simple as that.

File, I forgot to state that "file the stab is better than filing the keycap as keycaps may cost a lot while stabs are easily replaced".

How’s the EPBT 9009? Just bought a R4 set this morning, couldn’t get it to ship by air due to some weird restriction from the official TB courier

right. filing stab housings make more practical sense.

it's the typical enjoypbt quality in terms of material, with smooth top surface. this loosed set is r1, so it has some keys with less optimal legends. r3 is much better. thinking of getting r4 also hehe



yes, the availability of TB courier service by air are sometimes turned off for access.

No head, no tail, how to recommend?

Wouldn't it be easier to file the stab stems instead of trying to get tiny files into the housing? You could even do it with sandpaper stuck onto a flat surface.