Finally have taken VP last December, renovation works started and still in progress now.
Had been browsing through forums & blogs for months before engaging contractors for quotation.
It's really a hectic work to survey, to decide and to follow up. Would like to share out some of the items here and hopefully will be useful.

Wiring Works
- Mega Kabel for whole house electrical wiring (light/fan points, additional sockets & sockets relocation)
- Change 72 ways DB
- Fajar Cables for Alarm & Belden RG59 for CCTV

Aircond Piping
- Installed aircond piping (non concealed) using Paircoil as recommended by halcyon27, class 6 drain pipe & Mega Kabel

Plumbing Works
- Changed concealed mixers & shower sets
- Modified (lowered) kitchen water outlet
- Installed POE water filer

Masonry & Wet Works
- Hack walls to enlarge wet kitchen by 6' x 7'
- Build up wall & install wall tiles to ceiling
- Safety door 3' x 7'
- Level up floor & install floor tiles 6' x 7'
- Change 2x louvre windows
- Install dry kitchen wall tiles 10' x 3'
- Others

Plaster Ceiling
- 9mm plasterboard

Paint Job
- Indoor Dulux EasyClean
- Outdoor Dulux Powerflexx

Grille
- Door : 1.6mm frame 1" x 2", 1.2mm horizontal bar 3/4" x 1 1/2"
- Window : 1.2mm frame 1" x 1", 1.2mm horizontal bar 1/2" x 1"

Tinted
- TSER 58% / Visible Light 55% / IR 55%

Carpentry
- MFC/4G kitchen cabinet
- MFC TV cabinet
- MFC wardrobe
- MFC study table




Some info for sharing...




This post has been edited by shadow_fax: Jun 7 2018, 11:25 AM

no pic?

did you buy the parcoil yourself or from contractor? surprised got contractor want to take this job using parcoil.

No flooring? If engineered timber, I've some to clear.

I bought myself. My contractor willing to do it.
In fact it’s easier cause I use ducting instead of concealed.

What kind of flooring? Are you contractor?

how long does it take for the whole renovation? 1 or 2 months?

Probably 1.5 months... still in progress

👍 Where you buy from? Good to know your contractor willing to try it out. What's the cost difference: ducted vs concealed? Was it easy or hard to lay and install in his opinion?

Bought from KL. I have yet to meet my contractor face to face since he started installation.

Inaba denko definitely costs higher compare to normal type. 7 units, about RM3.5K for concealed piping with normal copper insulated together, RM4.2K for paircoil non concealed.

Thanks for the feedback. Hmmm, he didn't supply the pipes..I thought it could be slightly cheaper but perhaps the conduit imposes more effort or the run length is more hence that offset by and large. The advantage of conduits is easier troubleshooting without hacking.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 14 2018, 07:46 PM

He can supply the pipes, but using normal trunking and without 1/4” x 5/8”, which he will insulate individually for normal copper pipe.

So I supply both inaba paircoil & slimduct & joints to him.
End up could be almost same price of concealed, but with 1 unit removed, only 6 units.

And, I’m in the progress to become an agent of inaba.

Wow.. labour for each aircon about RM600.. the price is so steep

And inaba slimduct & joints look kinda professional...


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Labor + paircoil + mega kabel + class 6 pipe

The AC drainage pipes follow the Inaba Denko to the outside or terminate in the bath room/toilet?

If it follow the Paircoil outside, it needs to be insulated and then sloped adequately for proper drainage.

Ok, I see it. They are insulated as shown in the pic above. Good stuff. 👍👍👍

For added peace of mind, wrap the exposed Paircoil and Neodrain pipe with an extra PU jacket but ensure that the excess is inside the slim duct and the exposed piping slant downwards from the wall.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 14 2018, 11:41 PM

can you pm me detailed quotation for wiring?

how long is your total pipe run? all 1hp pipe? 4.5k include pipe cost or just installation?

those slimducts cost alot IIRC.

rm600 is about right. but depends how much hacking involved coz that takes most time & effort. Pulling is actually the easy part. and whether include patching back the walls because that also takes few days to complete.

you can see the normal Insuflex already looks like bitten.

it's always good to put a piece of cardboard above the holes the pipes passes tru when pulling to minimize rubbing of insulator against sharp edge on drilled holes. if not even Parcoil insulator will get damaged.

This post has been edited by advocado: Feb 15 2018, 12:59 AM

what size mega kabel you used? x3 2.5mm2 + x1 1.5mm2 or x3 4mm2 + x1 1.5mm2 wires?

can give me your contractor contact?

All drain pipes will be directed to external except one which will be concealed to the nearest drain hole as shown in picture. All exposed paircoil will be wrapped with inaba adhesive tape as advised by the seller, some will be wrapped with UV tape too.


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My wiring is done by a friend.
I see it’s kinda good price, “friend” price...

1.5mm Light RM50 each point with installation
1.5mm Exhaust RM50 each point with installation
1.5mm Fan RM30 w/o installation
2.5mm 13A new RM90
2.5mm 13A loop RM50
2.5mm 20A RM90
4mm 20A RM180
Socket & AC points relocation FOC
Cat6 RM90
Change DB RM150 labour

I bought total 30M.
One 1/4” x 5/8” (0.61mm x 0.81mm) for 2.5HP
One 1/4” x 3/8” (0.61mm) for 1HP
Another four 1/4” x 1/2” (0.8mm x 0.8mm) for 1~1.5HP

Slimduct is expensive.
If you need I may sell to you cause I will have balance. Self collect. Hehe...

This post has been edited by shadow_fax: Feb 15 2018, 07:56 AM

My quote inclusive hacking & plastering, 2.5mm mega, class 6 drain pipe.

RM3.5K for 7 units, concealed, normal copper, insulate together using insulflex.

RM4.2K for 7 units, ducting, paircoil, 2.5hp not using paircoil but insulate individually.

Turn out I bought material, 6 units.
RM1.6K all paircoil. Labor yet to confirm, at the range of RM1.5K+/-.

Where is your location? My contractor is Seremban

x3 2.5mm2 + x1 1.5mm2

i though parcoils come in 20M or 30M per box? or you buy loose? IIRC 20M cost around rm500-700. what thickness did you use? 0.6mm or 0.8mm?

so rm4.2k includes all materials & labor. so 4.2k-1.6k labor is 2.6k so 6 or 7 unit is around rm370-rm400.

or it only cost you rm3.1k for everything?

price quite good. usually loop socket already cost rm90. the time taken to hack a hole for the socket already more than 1 hour depending type of wall.

that 20A running 2.5mm is for what use? hope not water heater.

There are loose 5M pack but non UV type.
20M UV type 0.8mm cost >RM750.
Thickness already stated in the post.

RM3.1K+/- for everything. 6 units.
Cost to be confirmed.

Normal use. Outdoor, TV cabinet, cooker hood.

hmm so do you plan to replace the tiles?

if you aren't using UV parcoils i think you should add an Insuflex on top of the Inaba tapes. I though you used UV ones.

hah sorry couldn't see where the thickness is written.

rm1.6k for 30M quite expensive. almost twice the price if you bought 20M. can sell off the surplus to members here. i got some surplus for 1hp & 1.5hp.

strange part is the 1.5hp box stated clearly UV, but the 1hp doesn't state. the 1hp insulators are slightly greyish while 1.5hp ones are white. your's is grey or white?

the 20A is MCB or switch? coz sockets only come 13A or 15A normally. or you mean 2.5mm2 wires to 13A sockets using 20A MCB?

so not using electrical hob & oven? having the wires & switches ready is good for future proof.

hmm i though already installed but cost not yet confirm?

rm3.1k quite cheap. if use outside contractors price is rm200-250 for 10ft at the end same cost as yours but only get normal pipe. might even cost more as they probably don't include hacking, patching & new drain pipes.

Actually what's the benefit of paircoil compared to the traditional ?

The mm dimensions are thickness.
One 1/4” x 5/8” (0.61mm x 0.81mm) for 2.5HP
One 1/4” x 3/8” (0.61mm) for 1HP
Another four 1/4” x 1/2” (0.8mm x 0.8mm) for 1~1.5HP

The cost includes slimduct, wall outlet, coupler joint, and end fitting. Paircoil itself about RM1K.
Grey color should be UV type while white should be non UV based on picture sent by my installer.

Yours is a condo unit?

If its landed, i would advice to avoid internal water piping as much as possible, if it must be in the wall, use a removal panel/tile system...

Cause down the road you will definitely have water leakages... the hacking involved will bring tears to your eyes..

Installation still in progress. Cost not confirmed due to I made some amendment on the installation.

20A is main switch same like those aircond switches, to control 13A sockets.
2.5mm sufficient for my oven 13~15A. There is 4mm 20A ready for hob.

oh i though 1/4x5/8 is the pipe size (coz they come in set and brochure writes them like this).

which vendor you bought from that sells loose?

and just asking how many rolls of inaba insulation tape you bought?

coz i think i have to wrap up the white ones on the exposed end and i only got 1 roll of tape.

landed usually just route to nearest exterior walls.

highrise is the problem as management don't allow simply route the water to outside. must be to a drain. and most drain pipes preinstalled don't come with any insulators.

I will need to start using then only can tell. Theoretically you may check with halcyon27.
Or you may check those high power AC unit, it should be sleeved individually.

Understand the problem it may cause.
Concealed part only small portion.

This post has been edited by shadow_fax: Feb 15 2018, 11:23 AM

understood the difficulties.

My next place I will be re-routing everything to external. For those internal ones... all the joints will have removable panels, cause majority of the leakages are at the joints, pipes hardly break.

God bless us for time being.
I have 2 concealed drain pipe.

One at the back as shown in photo. Problem occurs then may route a new drain pipe external, drain hole just beside.Another one at the front car porch.

Minimal concealed inside house.

1/4 x 5/8 is copper size in inch. mm is thickness.
It’s not loose, it’s 5M pack, but non UV. I’m selling.

You wrap UV tape instead of insulation tape on exposed.
All paircoil are insulated. Just the matter or UV or non UV.
I don’t have any UV tape.

Prevents teh ais mug effect (condensation) on the AC piping and drain piping. That is not healthy as it encourages mould growth. The pipes are individually insulated which is the correct method rather than bundle wrapped with one insulation jacket. In SG, doing the way we do, installers will get fined.

Also helps to guarantee compressor runs at rated power and does not overwork.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 15 2018, 12:19 PM

And the lighting, hope it turns out good...

Downlight
https://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/...1297_EU/product

Eyeball Casing
http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/...0269_EU/product

Eyeball Bulb
http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/...8808_EU/product

Eyeball Bulb
http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/...5208_EU/product

I'm using Dialux to calculate the lights. seems 4 12W 6" downlight can't even reach center of each compartment? have you tried this software?

I use this http://www.charlstonlights.com/led-light-r...ment-calculator posted by someone else at another thread.
Anyhow it's subjective cause it depends on individual preferences. Some prefer warm feeling some prefer very bright.

seems from simulation those 6" Phillips 900lm aren't really bright.

but in actual when i install a 5" in a room, it looks bright enough.

so i guess only way to find out is after installing it and turn on light. but this mean cannot shift anymore since ceiling already cut. unless can find a way to "hang" the lights and do a test run before installing in ceiling.

Position of lights more or less fixed.
1 switch for 2 lights, and I go for 5” instead of 6”.
I can still change to 6” with higher lumen if it’s not bright enough.

where can i buy paircoil near kl area? anyone knows?

And this shall be the final... RM2700

Paircoil RM1050 (balance 4~5m)
Inaba ducting RM550 (balance about 40%)
Labour RM1100

5 units piping installation all non concealed except:
- Living hall drain pipe concealed ~20ft at carporch
- Ground floor room drain pipe concealed ~7ft at wet kitchen

AC unit installation yet to include, about RM100 per unit regardless of HP using the same installer.


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It's confirmed easier to lay for ducted installation vs concealed. And also it's easier too using pre-insulated copper. Also it should be better using individually sleeved copper, but whether we can "feel" it will be another story.

Mostly if not all would still use normal copper and insulate with superlon/insulflex due to cost concern. I'm not sure how much it costs to purchase superlon/insulflex, but copper coil probably around RM100++ for 15m length, and paircoil costs at least RM500~RM600 for 20m length.

It all depends on individual (owner), and the installer.

My draft for kitchen cabinet. MFC + 4G, hope it turns out good.


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that is quite cheap. did they run the wires in pvc conduit?

how many days to install all the piping works?

Wires in flexible conduit. Total less than 3 days, I’m not sure how many workers.

Thanks for the feedback. Indeed it's easier to lay and the labour time in laying is reduced esp when they don't have to slip the insulation on to the bare piping. One thing though you have to note is when they drill outdoor, it should be slanted and not level as in slanted downwards from inside towards the outside. This prevent rain intrusion when there's a seal compromise at the Slimduct where the piping comes outside from indoor.

Just note the compressor noise when it's at the beginning and when it reaches the set temperature. Also inverters and non inverters will have differently noise patterns.

"Feeling" is subjective however. Objectively, just ensure the AC HPis sized according to the cooling load required of that space. Also we have be realistic in our expectation. It's ok to cool to 25-27°C but if the space is large with lots of leakages, don't expect it to be able to maintain set at 24°C or lower when the AC is undersized.

Leakages are stairwell, open floor spacing esp living and dining zones that connects to kitchen without open-ended partitions, doors and windows that are not airtight, extractor fan in operation at the back or upstairs. Think how a space can be made like a box freezer, that's how can air leakages can be reduced. Tightening the building air envelope takes a very intentional approach from design stage. The double story home will always have one main or two main leakage areas, the dining-kitchen and the stairwell.

Looking forward to your house renovation journey and thanks for sharing it.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 28 2018, 10:32 AM

Consider a large single bowl that fits wok. Contact Zheilwane for his customised wok fitting bowl which I believe is custom made by HCE. See here. You'll want that and the primary kitchen user will thank you for it.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 28 2018, 11:25 AM

Yes am aware of it... https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2144773/all

Wow, thanks for the link. You've done well in your research it seems. Looking forward to more pleasant surprises. Good luck.

Plaster ceiling works in progress


This post has been edited by shadow_fax: Mar 26 2018, 12:16 PM

Hi, may I how much for the plaster ceiling per sqft quoted by ur contractor ???

It's not cheap though. RM2.60/sqft.

Might to send the the plaster ceiling guy contact ? Just in case I can't find any others cheaper than this then I can call him up lol

Ty

Location? I try ask him whether he covers your area.

Klang... dismantle old plaster ceiling n install new plaster

Ty for ur help

Sorry not cover your area

ok ty...

What makes u choose him instead?

Well, I’m new to reno, no experience at all. Hardly find a good contractor, friends who did them not recommend their installers. This contractor I found thru lowyat, at least with some good reviews (of course whether it’s genuine review).

Of course there are cheaper ones out there, RM2 per sqft, but I doubt how’s the quality & workmanship. Mostly start from RM2.20~RM2.30. My area less than 1000sqft, the difference will be around RM300, not a huge amount.

Texted few contractors, some too busy to respond. Some won’t disclose any other info except price and demand site visit. This contractor is better, willing to discuss, share info & recommend even without site visit.

So I chose him.

Understood. Thanks for sharing your thoughts

May I know where is your location? Is it in KL/Selangor area?

Maybe can use your case as reference for my own in the future

This post has been edited by WhitE LighteR: Mar 29 2018, 08:56 AM

Seremban area

Fua. Quite far from me. Don't think the contractor can cover me at kajang area.

I bet he covers your area. If you need the contact do let me know. I'll PM you.

Sure i will let u know. Thanks. Expected next month only completed for mine

This post has been edited by WhitE LighteR: Mar 29 2018, 10:05 AM

hi all, if for new condo with existing aircond point more easy to install the pair coil ? or then hole and route doesnt fit ?

If your unit comes with pre-installed pipes, just use lo. Otherwise it depends how you want to route it, concealed or exposed with casing.

If any from Seremban wanna buy sealer for house painting, I have one 18L extra, PM me...

https://www.dulux.com.my/en/products/dulux-...ior-wall-sealer


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Hi.. Any work done picture for your plaster ceiling including lights installed?

This post has been edited by realitec: Apr 18 2018, 09:16 AM

No lights been installed yet...

bro.. can PM ur aircond contractor contact number? they cover nilai area or not ?

Nice looking workmanship... did you just decided on flat ceiling all over? No L-box , or island or the sorts?

There is an L-box (without cove light) at living hall.
Other than that mostly flat, with a step drop at kitchen.

Here you go




This post has been edited by shadow_fax: Apr 30 2018, 11:01 AM

Final stage, carpentry in progress...

Hi, what is the color code for the painting?
Thanks

This post has been edited by mist8: May 24 2018, 10:29 AM

Dulux DSECC1793

Finally moved in, and still many small tasks & unsettled things to do.

Here is a summary list of my review on all my contractors (may missed out some), mainly based at Seremban.
If anyone interested to know further I would be happy to share. Do PM me.