- Torque solution shifter RM150
you may need to buy the locking piece
Delrin base bushing 80
buy both = 200

Whats the locking piece you're referring to, is it the push clips?
Does the delrin base bushing make any difference in the shifter feel?

Ok, let me see if i can find the replacement for those or not first, then i'll come back to you.

I've been looking at short shifters on and off since I've had my car, and I've never found a reasonable set. I've learned a lot though-

A "proper" short shifter will actually raise the joint/ball/pivot of the shifter lever, so that the distance from the joint to the cables underneath is longer. At the same time, the distance to the knob becomes shorter. Effectively, the knob position/height stays roughly the same, but you only need to pull it a shorted distance (but with more force) to move the shift cables the correct amount.

Most popular short shifters for Lancer/Inspira merely replace the shift lever with a shorter one. You end up with the shift knob being lower (and further away from your steering wheel). These all just replace the lever (it's a slightly bent metal rod with a ball in the middle).

Here's an article i found with a suitable diagram (scroll down and see the hand-sketched diagram)

The proper short shifters for Lancers are racecar things that dont fit in with your centre console. They probably cost a LOT too.

The lancer/inspira shifter assembly just happens to be that the pivot system is totally integrated into the housing, so it cannot be adjusted. In contrast, the original VW Beetle one can be adjusted by putting in a spacer to raise the pivot point.

Even the proton satria/wira has an interesting one. The front/back pivot can be easily replaced with a higher one, which is what most short shifter kits have (like this). However, the left-right motion pivot is dependent on a round shaft that the block clamps on, so the Wira/Satria short shifter kit shortens the front/back throw but not the side-to-side motion.

In summary, you can only reasonably get shifters that shortened. They also cost a lot of money for the little benefit, because the lever needs to be manufactured with the ball in the middle.

For simplicity, you can follow the Lancer specs: 215/45R18 7Jx18 ET46

7" wide wheel with 46mm offset.

Not that poster but what the heck...

I installed F-Tuned many years ago, back when they were close to RM 2.5k i think.

It is definitely not family friendly. The spring and absorber set I chose was the "comfort" one (they have comfort, sport and track), and I have already set the dampers to softest. And yet they are still very harsh.

For me driving, they are nice and firm. But for passengers it's really not comfortable. They don't want to feel all the bumps and grooves on the road surface.

When installing, F-Tuned got the car lowered a bit and it looked REALLY good. But handling was actually horrible. The car was a bit floaty and felt uncertain even when going straight on highway at 140 km/h. I suspected the suspension geometry was not good when lowered, so I got them to raise it back to orignal and it' is SOO much better. Suspension behaves as good as original, with the bonus of faster response time (cos the car doesn't move to much).

Servicing is expensive. I didn't service for like 6 or 7 years and it was becoming a bit crashy and uncomfortable. Service and replacement of some worn stuff cost RM 1k all in. After that it's really nice again. I guess stock absorbers also cannot last that long perfectly, so whatever la just got to pay.

I want to emphasis how fucking inconvenient this hard suspension is (even though it's already softest setting for the comfort package). Normal speed bump I have to go at about 5 km/h to be comfortable. Speed bump in shopping malls (the plastic block kind), they are bumpy regardless of speed. If combined with 17" wheel and wider low profile tyres, it's even bumpier.

However, when you are driving alone and you want to accelerate up a curving ramp onto a highway, you have no regrets choosing this kind of suspension.