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 LYN Mazda 3 Owners/Fans Club V10, Zoom-Zoom w/ Kodo

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incredibless
post Feb 6 2018, 09:37 AM

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QUOTE(Vinceyang @ Feb 2 2018, 10:38 AM)
Get the EO from Shell petrol station. After hard bargain, get it RM299.
What type of EO you plan to use?

Also notice previously SC put 4+1 liter of EO.
Now SC only put 4L, i ask why, SC say is instruction from KL.
And the extra is 0.2L for the oil filter.

So is there any effect or long term effect if EO is only pour 4L instead of 4.2 previously?

Do any sifu here top up urself outside?
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there is no need to worry if the SC use 4L of oil. In fact, it is good for you as it improves fuel consumption, lighter throttle response, less stress on engine components & rev happier. 4L is just
nice with the marking just 1-2mm below the FULL mark. In fact, I just put 3.8L (between min & max marking) for my car and so far so good.
incredibless
post Mar 16 2018, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(ma3da @ Mar 10 2018, 07:03 AM)
I own a Mazda 3 cny skyactive. Need to ask some same owner. Is your speed limit locked? I feel that my car can’t go beyond 140km/h. The speed is very hard to go up.
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180km/h easily - with light throttle.

This post has been edited by incredibless: Mar 16 2018, 04:49 PM
incredibless
post Jul 5 2018, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(wkc5657 @ Jul 2 2018, 11:40 AM)
I changed mine to hankook v12evo2, differences are noticeable. All roads surfaces sounded like newly paved roads on the factory fitted tyres. My radio volume now turned down by 2 points on my favourite channel and can talk with passengers without raising my voice a lot now. Wind noise exceeds tyre noise by around 130km/h, when previously the toyo so damn noisy after 60km/h. Very surprised that it made such a difference.

Rolling resistance also a little lower, so can improve acceleration and fuel consumption a little bit. It really changed the driving refinement in city speeds quite drastically.

If you can wait a little longer to change (after september), i would suggest the soon to be released falken fk510 which has even better rolling refinement rating than the v12evo2 while selling around similar price range.

So my rant to mazda : Please rid yourself of fitting toyo tyres at factory. If you want to support japan products because you're japan company, fit it with falken fk510. It is cheaper yet better than the toyo in both price and performance metrics!!!  ranting.gif
it is about RM1800 if refer australian website, but likely around 2500~3000 when installed. Seriously considering this but not in a hurry at the moment. Thinking of maybe changing it on the 5th year of ownership.

The kruk kruk noise can also be contributed by :
1) the strut bearing
2) the strut mounting
3) the top of the coil spring hitting the strut mounting
4) brake caliper movement

For me, i've done warranty claim on parts 1 to 3, but didn't resolve till date. Point 4 was discovered by a neighbourhood small franchised dealer. The mechanic there dismantled the front caliper and added more lube on the caliper pins and the pin chambers. It reduced the noise occurrence drastically, but only for a short 1 to 2 months period  sweat.gif  Seems like a similar incident to a number of previous generation's mazda3 due to caliper pin design. Not sure whether this is an issue to the facelifted GVC version.
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Same thing happened to me. The kruk kruk noise cannot be solved despite numerous visits to Service Center.
1. Replace the Lower arm [x4 times]
2. Replace stopper [x2 times]
3. Replace Strut Bearing & Mounting [x2 times]
4. Replace Brake Caliper [Greasing & EVEN IMPROVED PIN]

Other Items replaced:
1. Engine & Gearbox Mounting [vibration during idling]
2. Pulley Tensioner [leaking] x2
3. Wheel Nut rusty [QC issue]
4. Low paint quality - easily to get Stone chip [vs other cars]

I think is boils down to the design defect which unable to solve even on new CX-5 there are complains regarding this kruk kruk issue.



incredibless
post Jul 5 2018, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(wkc5657 @ Jul 5 2018, 02:15 PM)
rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif

Wah.....you lagi geng.....i guess for your car, they rugi already as replaced so many parts tongue.gif

How old is your car now and what's the mileage? Are you scheduling another warranty job?

I guess i'm even more inclined to get the after market lower arm set from hardrace in the mid term.

If the strut mounting change doesn't help, i guess either the strut mounting material or the absorber top design wasn't done correctly. Further you mentioned that you changed the caliper pin also....

If my budget allows, i'm going to get a mini 4 pot for the front (should fully eliminate brake caliper movement/knocking) and also a set of bilstein b6 for a slight upgrade (and hopefully the strut top design is better).
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3years plus. 75k. No choice since the parts are so low quality. Infact, i dont drive aggressively also the parts still give problem. And basically warranty over. Well to some may work some may not with the change of new parts. My problem remained the same after months the sound came back. Well thinking to change aftermarket BUT with this time just use it for first until sound gets worst then only see how. This problem does not happen on other cars despite cheaper models and expensive ones which I driven previously.
incredibless
post Jul 6 2018, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(ralfvi @ Jul 5 2018, 02:49 PM)
Deng, need to learn from you how to tiaw SC. thumbup.gif
btw no4. low paint quality , you ask them for new paint ka?
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Not tiaw BUT if things not in working order of course need to replace.

Is rather more to inconsistency of Body Paint and Bumper Paint. Yes, people will say plastic and metal will have slight of
color differences BUT for my unit the BUMPER is White where Body is Yellowish White after nearly a year of owning the car [very noticeable color
change]. [In fact, i even done regular exterior maintenance on the car & park in underground car park].

This post has been edited by incredibless: Jul 6 2018, 03:17 PM
incredibless
post Sep 11 2018, 01:35 PM

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anyone still service at service center despite warranty over? thinking to do it outside but one good thing about SC is they will service and check your other parts also which outside normal workshops lack off.

Any recommendation?
incredibless
post Aug 21 2019, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(Calveez @ Aug 20 2019, 02:43 PM)
Walau...the SC I went to seriously given me a tour around the park.  vmad.gif
Better get my gear oil change ASAP then.
Thanks bro, I will do the option 1 - fluid change first.
Any recommendation where I can get this done in Puchong or Subang area. Definitely not going back to Berjaya Park.
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The SC used to be quite good previously but now not really that good especially when comes to the technical knowledge. Perhaps if you are in Klang Valley you may drop by to S.A SC. Overall the technicians there are quite good and willing to listen to their customer. I change every 25-30k averagely and make sure you highlight to them to reset/re-learn the Transmission Control Module [TCM] to adapt to fresh fluid. One of the reasons some service center reluctant to change ATF because it may causes shift shock because new fluid is slippery [vs old & worn] which easily solve by re-learn the TCM with new fluid again.

Just to share abit on my previous car, i practice changing ATF for every 20k-30k and when i sold off (at 200k km++) it still shifts smooth and good [even with my aggressive driving condition revving all day]

This post has been edited by incredibless: Aug 21 2019, 05:34 PM
incredibless
post Jan 24 2020, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(studentsurvey @ Jan 22 2020, 03:02 PM)
Guys, random ques.
Yesterday sent my car to wash and polish and somehow they spoilt the side mirror. Didnt realised until i went and park and realised my side mirror cant fold/unfold anymore.  cry.gif
Any chance Mazda would fix for free if my car is still under warranty?
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if under warranty. just let Mazda handle it and it can be claimed. Just don't tell them you send your car for polish and found out not working.. laugh.gif Just call
them and ask about why your side mirror not working suddenly and want to drop by the center in for check ... thumbsup.gif

This post has been edited by incredibless: Jan 24 2020, 09:59 PM
incredibless
post May 12 2021, 12:51 PM

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QUOTE(chaurous @ Apr 25 2021, 06:28 AM)
Do you guys need to do polish on the car to remove the ‘orange peel’ effect when the car is brand new ? Saw quite severe on test drive black Mazda 3

Im getting my car early May , soul red crystal Liftback.
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orange peel are common in mass pro vehicles. either alot or little. If you want to achieve high gloss you need to do paint correction to minimize the orange peel / wavvy effect especially under lighting. If you own a soul red or dark colors, you will be even more satisfied once orange peel is removed... I had done mine but on white solid so the effect is more towards glossier during sunlight. brows.gif
incredibless
post Aug 5 2022, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(IvanWong1989 @ Aug 3 2022, 07:08 PM)
does anyone here change their atf regularly?
i havent get the car yet.. no news.

but been reading.

it seems like a catch-22 situation.
u dun change atf then at 100k it dies
u change atf then void warranty....
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i would say if you plan to use it for at least 5-7 years or expecting high mileage. just change the atf every 20-30k by drain and refill only. Been doing this for
my 2015 model and till date mileage 170k still shifts smoothly despite I rev hard frequently... The ATF is cheap only around RM150 even cheaper than your engine oil these days where a simple drain and refill is much appreciated. Make sure you use ATF-FZ for skyactiv transmission ya.
incredibless
post Jan 27 2024, 09:37 AM

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QUOTE(3nf0rc3r @ Jan 14 2024, 09:29 AM)
Is the spare parts for Mazda more expensive or comparable with other Japanese cars? Looking at a 2nd hand 2012 Mazda 3 recently.
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I would say for skyactiv generation price wise is comparable with other Japanese brands. Most importantly the parts for Mazda for example engine mounting is made in Japan Vs other brands in Thailand.For earlier generation the part maybe higher as it is part of Ford generation.
incredibless
post Jan 27 2024, 09:45 AM

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QUOTE(freakenstein @ Jan 12 2024, 03:57 PM)
Hi guys, is a mazda 2015 high spec still relevant? Seems like a great car to get for a first car. Priced at 62k, condition looked good with the owner servicing it at Mazda sc even after the warranty period ended.

Mileage about 130k
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I'm still driving the 2015 CKD high spec. In terms of relevant the basic safety features like 6airbags, Traction control, Low speed collision warning is still equivalent with today's new car. The part you losing out is electronic features like Electric parking brake, Advance safety like Lane Keep Assist, Adaptive Cruise control and etc.

Drivability still handles great thanks to the multilink suspension Vs new generations which is torsion beam (although Mazda design it not like an ordinary torsion beam)- just spend few k to replace the parts and it is good to go

Design wise it ages well and with a fresh coat of paint it will look good.

Maintenance wise is reasonable and easy going

incredibless
post Apr 11 2024, 09:22 PM

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QUOTE(Sica92 @ Mar 24 2024, 04:37 PM)
any onwers of M3 BM/BN who have passed 250k km mileage? mind telling any issues or parts that need to be thoroughly inspected?
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mine 220k km. I suggest checking on these and consider to replace if never been done before if you consider to prolong the ownership of
your ride. Other than that, the major parts of this car still works as charm.

1. Front and rear absorber
2. Front lower arm
3. Front and rear stabiliser link
4. Rear control arm
5. Radiator hoses (Top and bottom)
6. Thermostate (get it to replace as the spring may not as good as new)
7. Walnut Blasting - Since it is a direct injection
8. Coolant - Drain and refill
9. Aircond flushing
10. Other air filter, and cabin filters will do.

This post has been edited by incredibless: Apr 11 2024, 09:25 PM
incredibless
post May 23 2024, 09:25 PM

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QUOTE(ralfvi @ May 22 2024, 12:20 AM)
any failed component ? so far from overall ownership feedback of the engine its really reliable. a friend clocked 550km with no issues.
yet to overhaul his engine. and he really used and abused the car not really car guy so dont even know to check oil. all he did was sent to workshop and pay.
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normal wear and tear only like absorber, brakepad, and sparkplug. major parts are still original.
incredibless
post Nov 16 2024, 10:16 PM

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QUOTE(Sica92 @ Oct 19 2024, 03:25 AM)
264k km mileage. No major issues with engine and transmission. wear and tear is like owning a beemer. any owner with 300k km and above, mind advising us to take care of this old sexy wife?
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just maintain it regularly with good EO, change your ATF every 20-30k, every 100k, and change your wear and tear parts and it will be good to serve you. If you plan to keep it long just send it for a good respray and the new paint will transform your old sexy wife to be a hot vibrant sexy wife. biggrin.gif . I just sent mine for repaint and so far been working well and good to go. The only issues of this old generation are road noise and lower arm bushing. It also drives better and solid than average newer cars on the road that people keep shouting on.


For your mileage you can take a look to consider to change the followings
1. Thermostate - dont underestimate this 150RM part as it controls the coolant temperature.
2. Radiator top plastic bracket and radiator cover - wear and tear.
3. ATF Filter
4. Walnut Blasting
5. Engine mounting if you yet to change before. so far mine still working but signs of wear and tear already. consider this age Mazda parts are generally more lasting than other japs.
incredibless
post Aug 23 2025, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(KennyKB @ Jul 27 2025, 09:21 AM)
Hi Guys, my Mazda 3 Skyactiv is now 10 years old and according to the owner's manual the radiator coolant should be changed at 200,000 km or 10 years. Mileage wise, I'm only at 105,000 km.

Is it really necessary to change the coolant at 10 years? This requires flushing the radiator and putting in Mazda long life coolant. I'm thinking of letting go of my car in another 2-3 years. I know many owners of cars older than 10 years don't bother to change the coolant and they are still driving happily.

Appreciate some advice here. Thanks guys.
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If you’re keeping the car another 2–3 years or more, I think important than the coolant is to check your radiator hoses. If is harden, just change them as this is what usually leaves people stranded when it crack and leaks.

Since you only drive about 10k km a year, you may not need to touch the coolant but for Mazda FL22 coolant is cheap, around RM150 for a full flush, perhaps a good flush it lasts for another 3–5 years until you sell the car. Do take note that, Fresh coolant also protects your water pump and hoses from sudden overheat and usually for old coolant, although it see have colour but it will be like normal water that loses protection, and makes the engine overheat easier.

I changed mine for peace of mind (car at 250k km, 10 years old) and just continue using it a few more years before deciding on a replacement. At least during usage reduces the risk of failure is reduced.

We may not know when we will be rushing that revving non stop or hill climbing or go for long distance then it overheat. Then is too late bro.

This post has been edited by incredibless: Aug 23 2025, 03:39 PM

 

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