it means whatever model that your SA secured for you will be the pre-facelifted model.

The signature "S" reflection on the sides is not because of the paint but how the door panels were crafted. it's like how a concave/convex mirror bends light.

most importantly, are your blinkers phasing or it does not because if it doesn't then you got the "refreshed" version instead of the facelifted one.

don't need to upload the video. just take a screen shot of the rear lights. the facelifted version has a different rear light design altogether.

Saw it. the front blinker looks cool however am a bit indifferent towards the back

there should be a noticeable interior cosmetic tweak, the stitching becomes red whereas the pre-facelift has a tan/brown color.

the R-line presents a very interesting proposition for its price and while it looks good on the outside, can't say the same for the inside. the few things i find unacceptable in the R-line is:-

1) the visible seams/lines on the digital instruments cluster, the light switches and the infotainment screen;
2) the different texture (material used) for the cup holder area and the gear selector panel; and
3) the low center arm rest (centre tunnel).

I guess you're buying the engine/gearbox that comes with a free car.

weird - i don't expect Mazda to provide Bermaz this level of customizability since our volume of purchase isn't high to make such demand and for Mazda Japan to accommodate.

feels like Bermaz agrees to buy the facelifted version with a "discount" for not requiring Mazda Japan to give us their latest rendition of the interior cosmetic changes

I don't think Bermaz is in that bargaining position to do so - more like Bermaz informs Mazda Japan that they want to purchase a unit at the price of RMX and then Mazda Japan reverts with what they can offer for that price.

This is one of the reason i can think of as to why our local specification has sunroof since sunroof is practically useless for us like 90% of the time (at least for me).

It is also funny to note that Bermaz updated their mid-spec sometime in the middle of 2021 with keyless entry and then quietly bumped up the price with an additional RM5,000.00 (or was it RM2,000.00)

cannot remember.

no need for the tank to be empty before you use the deposit cleaner. as long as you have more than half a tank of fuel left, you can just add it in straight. if you are very particular then pour the deposit cleaner in before you top up with fuel all the way to full.

just don't add the deposit cleaner in when you have less than half a fuel tank left - the deposit cleaner is an additive so it needs solvent to react, fuel is the solvent.

the only car manufacturer so far that got it right with these blind spot monitoring is KIA/HYUNDAI. superb implementation by integrating the images into the meter cluster dials when signal is turned on - this also indirectly forced drivers to signal before merging/switching lanes.

the rules for keeping the warranty intact are very simple; as long as your car is mechanically/electronically different now than how it was when it was rolled out from the dealer then it is void.

best case scenario is when manufacturers only limit the void to that specific area where the car is different (ie: suspension when tires are changed). i know for one that Honda Malaysia once denied by claim for defective weatherstrips because i had my car serviced by independent workshops as opposed to their SC.

This post has been edited by shaniandras2787: Mar 6 2022, 08:08 PM

do not apply polish or send your car for polishing unless the surface is so damaged that there is no shine at all.

applying waxes monthly CAN theoretically achieve what coating does for the car BUT this is not necessarily true in some ways.



if you have a hobby in detailing cars then wax is a great choice because it's waaaaay cheaper and you get enjoyment out of it BUT if detailing a car is a chore to you then coating may be the better alternative.

whatever it may be, the most important car detailing process is doing those weekly car washes the proper way. if this is neglected then no matter what you throw on the car, it will be futile.

This post has been edited by shaniandras2787: Mar 7 2022, 12:06 PM

at first glance, i thought you had racing stripes stickers on your hood. turns out, it's just the reflection of the ceiling

I think there are some people who booked their cars back in December 2021 and still hasn't received any news regarding their arrivals. If you just placed yours, you better have the patience of a Buddhist monk.

if you want a thicker side wall tire then best if you downsize the rim also so that the stock original tire dimensions are maintained as close as possible otherwise you may run into problems like insufficient tire well clearance or messed up speedometer/odometer readings.

45 to 55 is a 10% increment so it will accumulate into a large number eventually and PLUS, if you run into any issues with your drivetrain etc, BERMAZ may void your warranty.

is 45 currently very uncomfortable for you?

By changing the dimensions of the tires, you are basically "altering" the meter readings and perhaps also effecting how the drivetrain of the car behaves in general because the entire set up is calibrated to match the dimensions of the stock tires (ie: how the suspension/absorbers will react to the change).

At the end of the day, just stick to this notion when it comes to car ownership; if you want to mod then don't worry about warranty but if worry about warranty then don't mod".

That's the golden rule, i guess.

Each to its own i guess when it comes to what is tolerable in terms of car modification and like i said before "if you want to mod then don't worry about warranty but if worry about warranty then don't mod".

Changing tires is considered a modification - in fact, anything about the car that is different from its stock condition is considered modified. The only difference is that some manufacturers are more lenient when it comes to warranty claims - some allows warranty claims for parts where the modification is not affecting it whereas most manufacturers just apply a blanket warranty void (eg: Honda).

I know the latter because I have experienced it with them before with my previous car.

Unless it is stated in the warranty booklet that changing tires is expressly excluded then it becomes arguable because it forms an opinion.

Everyone (especially new car owners or owners who are exceptionally worried about manufacturer warranties) should have a perception on how manufacturer's warranty generally works and should not have a misconception because of what they heard from the general public.

So back to what I said before, if anyone intends to change anything in the car that does not come originally straight from the manufacturer, no matter how trivial it is, one must be prepared that there is a chance (no matter how slight), a warranty claim will be denied.

picklerick's SA could be right, based on the specification sheet alone, Civic's torque band is between 1.7k - 4.5k so there is definitely more torque in the Civic compared to the Mazda at the same rpms but it won't be its peak torque, you'll need to rev it all the way up to 4.5k to get it.

at 2.5k rpm, that's the middle ground.

i-stop only initiates when you are either in "N" or "D" with the brake pedal fully depressed all the way - it will not engage if you did not have the brake pedal fully depress (light footed).

one more point to note is that i-stop needs to "charged up" before it can kick in. the charging is done automatically when you drive the car.