Any decent spare parts shop should sell, Honda Long Life Coolant Type 2. Abour RM30+ish

For those who wanted a better performance from your CVT, use the Honda HCF-2 Ultra transmission fluid, skip the local version.

Tried and true, I have used the ATF, MTF, and also the CVTF since my family has all the variants around. It's much more expensive, but the improvement is totally worth it. (I know, you guys must be thinking, CVT? How to improve? Already damn smooth).

Where to buy? Buy at Honda stockist and bring it to SC when it is due. Not all SC will accept, but I have no problem with mine.

Last I heard RM180 +GST from Hingan. It's easy to describe for the AT, for the CVT wise, well as soon as you press on the accelerator, the CVT is way less hesitant.

Yes, it's the premix. Some say its green, some say its blue. Under sunlight it looks green.

90ish vs 180ish

Yes, come with Anti Roll Bar for sure. Just that it is 11mm hollow.

For those of you that wanted some superior car battery, Varta Silver Dynamic N55 (80B24L) is in.

Rated 55Ah, 500CCA, but testing shows otherwise at 805CCA, thanks for PowerFrame and EFB. RM420.






If EFB is too expensive, can consider Blue Dynamic 55B24LS, 45Ah 430CCA. RM300. Tested around 510CCA.

Very much, Ultra Racing is 19mm SOLID.

Amaron Hi Life Pro 65B24L is good too, but it is not comparable to the Silver Dynamic, only to the Blue.

Amaron 65B24L is 50Ah, 420CCA. The Blue I posted is 45Ah, 430CCA. Both of these I tested will get anywhere 480-560CCA brand new.

Silver EFB, 55Ah, 500CCA.

EFB can withstand much more charge and discharge, charge acceptance level is also way higher.

Therefore, if you willing to pay for it, it's worth it. Else, the Blue or Amaron Pro as you like.


I used the Blue previously, 4.5 years. It's not even the 55B24LS, it's only the 42B24LS previously sold. But mine is a previous generation Civic. I have the old battery photos, I should dig it up.

Another car is my sist's City which use the NS40Z, it lasted 5 years.

Sorry boss, don't have a FC with me, but you need to look deep then upwards, focus on the the arms of rear shocks.

But here's a video to show the taken out bar.

https://www.facebook.com/VehicleSafetyBar/v...98095280397369/

For mine, my daily workplace back and forth 24KM plus minus, not really terrible jam but slow traffic 70% of the time. 30% is highway.

And nope, I didnt use a charger yet. But I do disconnect my negative when I went for vacation for more than 1 week.

My old battery change date




As for my sist's city NS40Z, she jam to KL everyday

This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Jan 30 2018, 01:36 PM

Tested my alternator using the analyzer, just normal, did not drop below threshold or overshoot maximum threshold too.

My sis's honda city however, slightly below minimum when aircond and light is on (when idling).

Still the same, NS60LS, aka xxB24LS. Replace xx with performance rating (Eg: 46B24LS, 55B24LS, 65B24LS etc)


If FK8 Type R, then it is DIN60.

This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Feb 2 2018, 02:32 PM

Nice, you chosen blue, wise.

Air Filter, you can just buy a good non-oil drop in and save in the long run,

Air Cond Filter (Cabin Filter) Buy on your own and change, save a lot.

And all those optional engine treatment cleaner, you can opt out if you want.

Thanks bro ck.chunkeat for support.

And actually the spec listed for the stock battery is not quite bad at all, 47Ah, 410CCA.

Thanks bro JasonKing for the support.

After comparing and seeing the Type R and FC engine bay in real, good news is FC can actually upgrade to Q85 or any LN2 size DIN battery, although you will need a new universal tie down bar (not hard to get), and also a new battery insulator jacket and cover (if you OCD enough).

FC has a nice insulator jacket and a proper plastic cover.
Type R has only those art board plus foam as insulator like what you can find in P2 and Mazda.

Just curious, any FK8R owners here?

Change outside can get much much better spec battery for the money paid.