Go with BMC instead. Slightly more expensive but why not?

I went el-cheapo and bought the works engineering / simota one. Didn't do diddly squat for performance.

Depends on what you want it for. Performance, doubt it. Sound, definitely not. Go for open pod better, PRL or Mishimoto.

So, your call man.
In other countries yes. Not sure why we don't. We have a brace in place instead.

Maybe a bit, maybe can only see on Dyno. But not something you can feel massively.

If you want the open pod swoosh sounds when you whack the throttle, you will be up for disappointments.

Admittedly, CAI is a better option if you ask me. But i doubt the filter is the restriction factor in a turbocharged cars. Seldom you see crazy intake mods on force fed cars because they have extra capabilities of drawing in air compared to NA engines.

As in my case, why put it back when you already spend money for it. If i think my Works Engineering panel is expensive. Your K&N will be friggin out of my mind expensive. At least 3xx close to 400 i trust.

Unless you don't trust performance filter for filtering less than a stock more restrictive filter, then that is a different story all together.

K&N can continue using as long as you are washing it every 1 year or so depending on how you drive. Just inspect the filter once in a while and wash and re-oil it if needed. Buy a K&N filter cleaning kit or some third party ones. Don't put too much oil on when you do filter maintenance as the oil might get sucked in and coat the MAF sensor and throw an error later.

The stock filter is oiled as well which explains the price so no worries about it. Just dab the filter with an ultra light coat and that is enough. Long term wise, the filter might save you a little bit of money compared to changing one every year.

If you can see fuel savings, it is most probably the case where it has picked up a little bit of power. Less restrictions will result in a smoother and less restrictive airflow but at smaller throttle opening it can sometime make the airflow a little more turbulent than normal. That is my understanding for an N/A intake anyway. As soon as the turbo spools and suck air from the box, it should be pretty much negative pressure between the airbox and the compressor inlet and flow won't be turbulent. At that point it is only just the filter restricting the airflow.

Don't quote me on that. Just my half bucket water of understanding on the dynamics of an intake system. In general, the higher the revs the better you can see the filter effects as you can then feel the amount of air it sucks in. This is where the wonders of open pod comes in as you can listen to those whoosh noises and stuff. But it gets old after a while and becomes an annoyance. I have run open pod for the longest possible time and this is actually my 2nd time on a panel filter.

He wants his HU rooted and hacked so apps can be installed onto it.

Is it me or the new Honda Civic paint is very thin and soft. Gotten my car for less than a month and have been getting a lot stone chips.

Is it common? By the way, I’ve been speeding around 120-160 almost everyday at highway. Anyway to prevent?

Kinda like different spectrum you listed there. What actually you looking for?

First of all, unlikely that is true. Secondly, it is different product line up.

That is why there is a huge price gap there.

If you don't really need performance tyres, then you can go with Primacy 4 as it costs less and most probably less annoying to drive on.
Bosch only made carbon ones lor. Unless really cehkai brands

civic fc the brake light on tail lamp is led or bulb?