The yellow house. All bikes repainted. Phew! My pelvic bone is killing me, all the squatting and getting up. That's 4 bikes within this 3 weeks. Need a rest , maybe half a year.
As you say, it should be ok without that stay. It's not like it is a race bike and the wheel should hold it together, but the rear is 135mm so you should use spacer and not put pressure by clamping.
So did you compare the Birdy and Rhine, are they exactly the same in dimensions?
As you say, it should be ok without that stay. It's not like it is a race bike and the wheel should hold it together, but the rear is 135mm so you should use spacer and not put pressure by clamping.
So did you compare the Birdy and Rhine, are they exactly the same in dimensions?
Nice paint work!
I don't know the actual size of the Rhine's 18 inch front fork but the half piece you gave me (the old one) is smaller than the 20 inch that I ordered. The new Birdy Classic has the same dimension as the Rhine and also the design for the rear stays are also similar both Birdy and Rhine. The older model stays (the one that you brought me) have longer stays than the newer models. Both the Rhine and Birdy uses roller bearing in the rear arm pivot.
Suprisingly, they both rides the same. This was a good sign, meaning you don't actually have to spend that much for a Birdy kind of ride. A Rhine would suffice. I took the RHine for a 40 km spin today to Kuala Sepetang and it was comfortable. The suspension actually helps absorb the bumps and jarring. I can see the spring at the front contracting and rebounding all the time. I need a harder rear elastomer, maybe I will change to spring type as I ride hard, I was pedal bobbing when riding faster.
As for my conclusion, the RHine or the Birdy for that matter is nice to ride, comfortable and can actually go long distances. Whether it is worthy to spend 6K for the classic, 9K for the Mk 2 or 11K for the Mk 3 Birdies, that is up to individual. As for me, I think I am happy with the RHine. Even the rider who came for his Dahon MU was quite impressed with the Rhine as he rode 10 kilometers on it to Sepetang.
I don't know the actual size of the Rhine's 18 inch front fork but the half piece you gave me (the old one) is smaller than the 20 inch that I ordered. The new Birdy Classic has the same dimension as the Rhine and also the design for the rear stays are also similar both Birdy and Rhine. The older model stays (the one that you brought me) have longer stays than the newer models. Both the Rhine and Birdy uses roller bearing in the rear arm pivot.
Suprisingly, they both rides the same. This was a good sign, meaning you don't actually have to spend that much for a Birdy kind of ride. A Rhine would suffice. I took the RHine for a 40 km spin today to Kuala Sepetang and it was comfortable. The suspension actually helps absorb the bumps and jarring. I can see the spring at the front contracting and rebounding all the time. I need a harder rear elastomer, maybe I will change to spring type as I ride hard, I was pedal bobbing when riding faster.
As for my conclusion, the RHine or the Birdy for that matter is nice to ride, comfortable and can actually go long distances. Whether it is worthy to spend 6K for the classic, 9K for the Mk 2 or 11K for the Mk 3 Birdies, that is up to individual. As for me, I think I am happy with the RHine. Even the rider who came for his Dahon MU was quite impressed with the Rhine as he rode 10 kilometers on it to Sepetang.
The elastomer already in that frame is the green one, which I believe is the hard one. I think the front is fine, if too stiff, you might as well not have suspension. Bobbing is bound to happen on suspended bikes. The Moulton was worse!
You sounded surprised that suspension actually work. Do you meant to say other suspension bicycles don't absorb bumps and jarring?
On a mountain bike, full suspension is really efficient. It will not bob, if we ride on a flat surface, presumably if all the settings (meaning air pressure is right and sag is correctly adjusted) are right. Only on hard knocks or maybe uneven roads or going over ruts etc. the suspension levels out and made it easier to ride and most importantly make the tires stick to the trail. That is because when pedaling on a flat surface, especially going uphill, we are wasting effort bobbing up and down. That's why Giant has their Maestro system, Santa Cruz has their Virtual Pivot System and many more has more fancy systems but the most common is know as Horst Link. It is supposed to work where they should be. This is why many MTBs also have lock on their rear suspensions, to prevent the bike bobbing up and down when riding on levels roads.
In this Rhine case, the suspension is working too but not when pedaling hard as it bobs up and down, even though just an inch front and back. For offset this I have to set the right tensions on the front and back too. The settings is really good though for a normal ride as the suspension system offsets the bumpiness of the hard tarmac compounded by the high pressure of the folding bike tires and also because small wheels are hard and bumpy,especially on aluminium frame bikes, you don't feel it on the contact points, that is our hands and butts. That's an advantage over long rides.
So, that means, I have to set the optimum settings of the suspensions. When a suspension system is wasting your energy bobbing up and down, it means it is not working right.
This post has been edited by etigge: Feb 10 2018, 10:33 PM
The elastomer already in that frame is the green one, which I believe is the hard one. I think the front is fine, if too stiff, you might as well not have suspension. Bobbing is bound to happen on suspended bikes. The Moulton was worse!
Yeah, the green one is kind of hard and I thought it was old. But I rode my wife's Rhine this morning so maybe it should be OK for her. When I sat on the bike, the elastomer was compressed almost half length already. Maybe later we might get 2 sets of suspension with adjustable setting ones from Taobao. When we first sighted the Birdy, we too were like, Wah! so ugly Then after really riding a distance today, we understand the concept of their design. Even our friend, you met him the other day, was impressed and I was suggesting that he order the Rhine's front fork and put it on his Dahon, like the picture I uploaded the other day. He seems quite eager too.
My dahon rear hub is starting to make noise. Actually long time edi that noise, but i ignored. So most probably the hub is starting to kaput.
The questions is, is there any chance for that hub can be repaired? Let's say i re-grease it or something.
And pennywise, would it be worth it to change only the hub, or just go buy a new wheelset instead? Actually, i still dont really know what's the hub advantage other than making loud sound..hehe. im starting to like the silence when riding that dahon.
My dahon rear hub is starting to make noise. Actually long time edi that noise, but i ignored. So most probably the hub is starting to kaput.
The questions is, is there any chance for that hub can be repaired? Let's say i re-grease it or something.
And pennywise, would it be worth it to change only the hub, or just go buy a new wheelset instead? Actually, i still dont really know what's the hub advantage other than making loud sound..hehe. im starting to like the silence when riding that dahon.
As far as I can remember, the original Dahon hub is cone bearing type and not sealed bearing. Only the front is sealed bearing. The noise ( still not sure what kind of noise because you didn't mention ) needs to be rectified as soon as possible. No harm in taking out the bearings and check the cone even if they are OK. Treat it as servicing. If the cone is worn, then you have to change the hub ( or the whole wheelset as you prefer). But if the bearings are gone, it can be replaced easily, even with ceramic coated ones. I think there are 18 ball bearings in all. But if it still doesn't eliminate the noise, it should be the freewheel. The freewheel can be change easily. Just check the pawl design of the freewheel and get a similar one. Sometimes an old one from an old wheelset also works.
Even if you want to change just the hubs (front and rear) it is hard to find 28/20 hole hubs unless off course you order from Taobao. If you like the silence, it is easily done. Just add more grease in the pawls and ratchet of the freewheel hub and that will deaden the noise of the hubs. Usually when you get a new wheelset, it will be quiet and after a while riding it gets noiser because grease is getting less inside. Or the new wheelset just use very light grease on their hubs. Some like them loud as if they are better if they are louder which is actually a myth. Some designs like Chris King some Chosen models, Industry 9 have different kind of systems and they whirrr instead of clicking. Some with only 2 pawls, they click at a lower frequency as the clicks sound only twice per revolution and some 6 pawls and some even 8 pawls.
As far as I can remember, the original Dahon hub is cone bearing type and not sealed bearing. Only the front is sealed bearing. The noise ( still not sure what kind of noise because you didn't mention ) needs to be rectified as soon as possible. No harm in taking out the bearings and check the cone even if they are OK. Treat it as servicing. If the cone is worn, then you have to change the hub ( or the whole wheelset as you prefer). But if the bearings are gone, it can be replaced easily, even with ceramic coated ones. I think there are 18 ball bearings in all. But if it still doesn't eliminate the noise, it should be the freewheel. The freewheel can be change easily. Just check the pawl design of the freewheel and get a similar one. Sometimes an old one from an old wheelset also works.
Even if you want to change just the hubs (front and rear) it is hard to find 28/20 hole hubs unless off course you order from Taobao. If you like the silence, it is easily done. Just add more grease in the pawls and ratchet of the freewheel hub and that will deaden the noise of the hubs. Usually when you get a new wheelset, it will be quiet and after a while riding it gets noiser because grease is getting less inside. Or the new wheelset just use very light grease on their hubs. Some like them loud as if they are better if they are louder which is actually a myth. Some designs like Chris King some Chosen models, Industry 9 have different kind of systems and they whirrr instead of clicking. Some with only 2 pawls, they click at a lower frequency as the clicks sound only twice per revolution and some 6 pawls and some even 8 pawls.
The sound is almost like when bb kong. It started to sound 'ktak ktak' when i put on some force on the pedal. Im sure it's not the bb, because i changed the bb twice, with the latest is the hollowtech and the sound still exist. Upon inspection, My mech said it's the hub that's the culprit. I can get the 20/28 novatech hub from lbs, but the price is around rm300++, which i think is almost equivalent to a new litepro wheelset, if labour cost is added up. Taobao or AliExpress, of course can get cheaper. So, instead of pulling the plug for a replacement, im now trying to do a little rescue, if possible, because i kinda like the stock dahon wheelset.
I can't stand loud hubs… attract dog very effective. Some how I find cup and cone better… it's personal. You have everything you need in the link below.
The noise ( still not sure what kind of noise because you didn't mention ) needs to be rectified as soon as possible.
for your ref . so it's confirmed. the rear hub really is the main culprit.
i didnt open the hub. lack of tools. my toolbox only provide max size 16 cone wrench. i got a pedal wrench size 17, but i still have no clue how to clamp the weird shaped bottom nut.
somehow, my gut feeling is telling me that this hub is beyond saving, but still usable. just have to bear with that annoying sound.
I can't stand loud hubs… attract dog very effective. Some how I find cup and cone better… it's personal. You have everything you need in the link below.
i didnt open the hub. lack of tools. my toolbox only provide max size 16 cone wrench. i got a pedal wrench size 17, but i still have no clue how to clamp the weird shaped bottom nut.
somehow, my gut feeling is telling me that this hub is beyond saving, but still usable. just have to bear with that annoying sound.
Whether the hub should be replaced will depend on you. How smooth are the bearings? If smooth enough for you, then the hubs are ok, just pull apart the freehub. That clicking noise us likelt to be the pawls not engaging precisely, so may need cleaning and light greasing.
for your ref . so it's confirmed. the rear hub really is the main culprit.
i didnt open the hub. lack of tools. my toolbox only provide max size 16 cone wrench. i got a pedal wrench size 17, but i still have no clue how to clamp the weird shaped bottom nut.
somehow, my gut feeling is telling me that this hub is beyond saving, but still usable. just have to bear with that annoying sound.
The sound is from the freehub. That can be changed easily or as desastar said, the pawls are not engaging properly. I suspect one of the spring inside is out of place. Even if the spring is gone, there are replacements for it. Since you are already taking it out, you might as well clean the cone and the bearings. It's not the cone and bearings because the sound you showed, the shaft is not spinning and hence the bearings are not turning. You were just twisting the freewheel. Hold the two ends and give it a turn (not touching the freewheel), I think it's OK. Just the freewheel.
Litepro wheelsets are RM580 a set and that's the cheapest kind the Kpro but another seller call Dirstore in Subang Bestari just imported a consignment and selling it for RM450 a set. Changing it does have an advantage though, you will get all sealed bearing hubs, both front and rear.
I think the LBS can take out the freewheel easily and even if they insist on changing the freewheel, it is still cheaper.
The sound is from the freehub. That can be changed easily or as desastar said, the pawls are not engaging properly. I suspect one of the spring inside is out of place. Even if the spring is gone, there are replacements for it. Since you are already taking it out, you might as well clean the cone and the bearings. It's not the cone and bearings because the sound you showed, the shaft is not spinning and hence the bearings are not turning. You were just twisting the freewheel. Hold the two ends and give it a turn (not touching the freewheel), I think it's OK. Just the freewheel.
Litepro wheelsets are RM580 a set and that's the cheapest kind the Kpro but another seller call Dirstore in Subang Bestari just imported a consignment and selling it for RM450 a set. Changing it does have an advantage though, you will get all sealed bearing hubs, both front and rear.
I think the LBS can take out the freewheel easily and even if they insist on changing the freewheel, it is still cheaper.
I have difficulties removing the nut on the hub. The top nut, no problem, can use size 17 hub spanner. But the bottom one, i dunno what tool to use (see previous post pic). Can help me out here?
I have difficulties removing the nut on the hub. The top nut, no problem, can use size 17 hub spanner. But the bottom one, i dunno what tool to use (see previous post pic). Can help me out here?
I think Dahon's is Shimano freehub. Only Shimano uses cone bearings nowadays. Here's the Youtube link to how to take out the freewheel. Don't buy anything first. Just check the video link and try and see if you can take out the hub. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZZdB_P3mmc
Feb 10 2018, 02:28 PM
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But I rode my wife's Rhine this morning so maybe it should be OK for her. When I sat on the bike, the elastomer was compressed almost half length already. Maybe later we might get 2 sets of suspension with adjustable setting ones from Taobao. When we first sighted the Birdy, we too were like, Wah! so ugly 
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