Not in walls

leak :
1. always seal up leak from the source. leak from outside, seal from outside, no point seal from inside as seal will fail easily.
2. since it is glass and outdoor, something like silicone weather proof acetic type would do fine.
3. for added durability, cover the seal with aluminium tape or those rubber flex tape.
4. check the cement for cracks/microcracks........especially at the places where the cement makes a right angle. can fill them up with water proof putty filler for big cracks, for small cracks, can use water proof paint.

heat :
1. if want to have light with lesser heat, can consider those car tint like solar guard/v-cool etc.
2. if totally don't want the light to go through but don't want the hassle of removing the glass, can just paint the inner surface of the glass...........then it will look just like ceiling.

Depends on source of leak

It all depends on the source of leak. If can't identify, then can't Solve.

The usual case of a silicone seal fail is due to weather and uv. If covered by alluminium tape after the silicone cured, it will last almost forever.

If silicone alone(assuming the correct type), usually can last more than 10 years.

from the source aka from above.

What type of roof above the car porch?
Also, does the position of the water mark coincide with the water drainage of the roof for the upper floor?

i suspect they PU injection the wrong place.

for concrete slab roof need to make sure :
1. level.......make sure there is declining level towards the drainage. no pooling of water.
2. water proofing. can paint with elastomeric paint(got various brand like nippon, pye, sika etc etc) after making sure the level is done properly. as usual, paint from above aka the source of water.
3. make sure the edges(where 2 section of concrete meet like a horizontal slab with a vertical wall for example) are properly waterproofed as these are the usual places where waterproofing failed.

This post has been edited by slimey: Oct 28 2018, 06:15 PM

No recommendation. I would diy it anyway

May have weaken the beam lol

Nope.
It is mainly to test if there is any active leak or not.

If you already know there is active leak no point doing this test.

And hairline cracks in the waterproofing layer won’t be seen anyway.

Lel. Still injecting at the wrong place.

Hopeless contractor that knows shit about waterproofing.

I suggest stop wasting time with the same contractor. And hopefully the developer ditch that useless contractor.

Diy pouring 2 bottle of pye krek seal, less than rm40.

Serious. I just pour it to all the grout and let it seep in to the grout.

And it stop the leak. Why bother to find the crack when the product will find the crack for you lol

1 feet is too low.
I do mine 5 feet and double layer waterproof cement.
Grout I use cement mixed with pye waterpruf additive.

sika seal.........

not on bare bricks............but on top of the cement rendering of bare bricks. the cement used to render the bare bricks can add cement additive like pye waterpruf for overkill

Wall?
You will need to check the roof, ceiling and window nearby for leak first.
Fix that.

And why is the wall bare brick? Not even a cement layer rendering?

And pye waterproofed surface means what? A layer of elastomeric paint or cement with pye waterpruf additive or something else?

The general rule of painting is a clean and dry surface, a suitable primer if not painted before. Then paint.

If got paint before on the wall, can paint over it with new paint provided the surface is clean and dry, the paint is of same type( water based on water based, acrylic on acrylic etc etc...)

Yes. Need to redo the waterproofing at the places you hack.

walls need water proofing also.

since the area of waterproofing is small..........just fill up the gap between the place you hack and the water pipe.....and a bit on the surface to level it. i would just use pye aquaplug. it is sold in small can.......1kg size.

well.......
i take waterproofing seriously.........i water proof up to 6 feet. double layer at least.