This is an old topic, but does anyone here still have their car lights flickering at idle? The SC tells me the battery I use isn't up to spec (ridiculous explanation IMO) but reading other threads tells me that the wiring harness is the issue. If there are others in this forum who had solved this, pray tell.

The other problem I'm facing now is the faint krk klok sound from time to time, especially when on slightly bumpy roads. I thought it to be the CV joint but there appears to be no rip in the rubber cover. However, it does make the occasional sound when turning left, so, would that the be CV joint needing additional grease even though everything is sealed?

Hmmm...

I'm using Panasonic battery and the mechanic I asked used some fancy gadget to test the battery condition and it's still in great condition. Only think I can think of now is the wiring harness. I don't have any external wiring harness and where do I get them?? When I search for "wiring harness for 2012 Forte" all I get is radio wiring harness but no wiring harness for fuse box or elsewhere. Would be great to find a wireman who can sort me out.

For the krk klok sound, at the time it makes it, there's no freeplay or looseness in the steering at all - not to my experience. Only happens on bumpy roads and turning left. I did notice a busted bush cover on the top side of the suspension coil where the shock absorbers sit but I didn't think that would be problematic because it's not grease filled or anything.

It could probably be the loweer arm bush but I had my mechanic test it and he doesn't think it to be problematic.

I guess I'll need to get the mechanic to fix the busted bush cover first before considering the lower arm bush. SC prefers to change the lower arm assembly completely for the usual 1xxx price.

Regards

Thanks for the sample pic of the H4. I'll need to look at the specs for the headlights for the Forte. Offhand do you know what the spec is?

The sound comes from the front left side of the car and I'm now getting convinced that I should change the lower arm bushing. Problem is - do mechanics have the tools to remove the bushing?

This post has been edited by pubmut: Sep 13 2017, 08:36 PM

Ack! I got a quote for the lower arm assembly original at RM380 per piece. Now I have to go around price checking.

I've no plans to go back to the SC for any servicing from this point forward after the warranty expired. I'll be needing to have a mechanic check things over thoroughly before buying the parts.

So far there hasn't been any sound when I turn and accelerate, so I hope that the drive shaft is in good order.

Thanks.

I've no plans to go with reconditioned units and I wonder if Autosavers or any other mechanic will want to just change the bushings after I buy them. Express Mobis quoted RM45 (ori) RM26 (OEM) for the big bushing and RM25 (ori) RM18 (OEM) for small bushings. I looked up How to Change Bushings on Youtube and it looks like one needs to have the right tools to do so. Otherwise it's not very good.

Incidentally I called up Hyunkia to ask for the lower arm assembly and they quoted an OEM for RM155. Now I wonder if I heard wrongly or are these OEM units reconditioned...

Thanks. I checked with Hyunkia and they quoted RM155 (OEM) for the lower arm assembly. I wonder if I heard wrong.

Anyway, do you have any opinion about Autobiz Autosavers? Is it worth giving them a try?

DYC if I recall correctly when talking to the guy. Anyway I dropped by AutoSaver and got it fixed for RM190. Apparently it was the absorber link rod that was worn and so one pair was installed, incidentally an OEM version (I couldn't see the brand name).

Now I'm focused on getting the light flicker issue...

Keep us posted on your adventure with changing the lower arm bushings. I'm curious to find out if the mechanics like AutoSavers are willing to do just that instead of changing the entire lower arm assembly.

Meanwhile I sought a mechanic recommended by Express Mobis and after much testing on my light flickering issue, concluded that the alternator may be the problem. He checked the battery power using diagnostics and power ranged from 12.67V to 14.8V, which, in his opinion, the alternator is struggling to keep pace with the charging of the battery. It's not bad yet since going above 1000 RPMs the alternator is working very well. It's only idling when this happens.

When he tested the battery itself under load, the battery went from 14V to 10.5V. His suggestion - carry on with status quo until the alternator is completely dead and when the battery needs changing, change it to a high quality battery which may hold better than the popular brands. He alleges that many batteries do not really have the sufficient number of plates inside it to provide the necessary charge, something of which remains to be seen.

I wonder if an OEM alternator is a good choice though the mechanic doesn't think so. I'll have to do some more checking.

It could be that the throttle body is faulty and cleaning may not be the solution. You might have to change to a new throttle body.

WRT to your Vios having rough idling, my previous City also had that and the mechanic I recently saw for my Forte told me that it's likely the idling valve within the throttle body that may be the cause, of which it will require changing instead of cleaning. That's his expert opinion. He's formerly a Hyundai mechanic.

I understand from one Hyundai mechanic that the stock rims for the Forte is actually very soft, therefore prone to dents. Best if you can find a set of 2nd hand rims or splurge on some new ones.

Hiya. Has anyone purchased tyres through Lazada before? I'm curious as to why these shops have prices way lower than what you ask for at any tyre shop, or this is a lure so that they will squeeze you for more?

TIA

A quick search on spark plugs showed that the stock Kia ones are Denso Iridium long life, with one quoting it will last 160K kms or 100K miles. Well, you might want to think it over if you haven't reached that number yet.

Hey Dainez

To date most sparks are changed at 100 thousand km intervals and I think we should stay at that. I think perhaps what I read on forteforums may not be accurate. Give and take a few thousand of it should be fine.

Hey all. Just checking to see if AutoSavers or any outside mechanic can adjust ignition timing for the 2.0 SX?

TIA.

Mine has that noise too but only on hot days. To date it's not fixed yet because each time I bring it to the mechanic the sound magically disappears...heheh. Actually it disappears because the days are cool when I go to the mechanic.

Quick prognosis is likely the suspension or absorbers, but I've changed my absorbers like a year and a half ago so until I get down to it, it really doesn't affect much of the car handling at all.

The other issue I face is that after a recent tyre alignment and balancing the tyre guy tells me my caster is misaligned, saying that I must have been in a pretty bad accident to misalign the caster by about 2cm. I've no idea because the only "accident" I've had is destroying the alloy rims due to potholes. The tyre guy showed me that the gap between the tire and the wheel well is greater on one side compared to the other.

Hmmm...

So I've been recommended to go look for the bodyworks people to align the caster back to position.