Need help. Really low on cash atm so saving money is a priority. However, this is only second to reliability.

I have an old 171k mileage iswara, 1.3s, manual. (C21ASNJRM). Almost 5 years since purchase this car as third owner and didnt do any other service besides change engine oil. I think I buy time this car 80k-90k mileage. This kept the car running smoothly. Until now.

Now im getting idling roughness/vibration, hesitation on acceleration, power window getting stuck, boot leak, battery keep draining, macam macam la. So understandably have to do major servicing. Now I'm confused - should I bring to Proton Service center or send to normal outside shop? If you have any shops you can recommend, please do - I need low cost and high parts reliability. Or easier - most reliable part at the lowest cost, make the part last as long as possible.

I made a list of things need to do: Please advise where should I go to get the best bang for my buck, specific shops, specific parts brand or model, specific work order? Also, If i missed out on anything else need to check, please advise as well. Also in the list got some questions where im confused - if anyone knows the answers, please advise. The prices listed on the side are from lelong for parts only. Im not sure shop will charge how much for labour. Thank you sifus. I really need a lot of advice to prevent wasting my hard earned money as im not rich in any sense.

Update: Lowest price parts found via protonperoduaparts.com.my followed by iprice.my, lelong.com.my, mudah.com.my, lastly for rare parts etc can try finding at ecsenang.com as well.

Here it goes:
-----------------------------

Maintenance By System:

-PowerTrain-

Pre-Check: Check for existing or pending OBD2 codes.

1. Fuel Filter - where to get? and price? Is there fuel filter in fuel tank as well?
2. Check Fuel Pressure.
3. Air Filter (Carburetor) - RM 20
4. Check for vacuum leaks with smoke.
5. Clean throttle body.
6. Clean carburetor. Spray carburetor cleaner directly through the fuel bowl vent.
7. Clean Idle Air Control valve.
8. Recalibrate Carburetor.
9. Spark Plugs - NGK BP5ES (Nickel) (SC use C52LS) - RM 30
10. Replace Spark Plug Seals.
11. Injector Cleaner - Applicable or not ? Answered: NOT APPLICABLE. Car does NOT have those.
12. Engine Oil - SHELL Helix HX7 10w40 4 Litre Original - RM 145
13. Engine Oil Filter - RM 20
13.1 Clean and Inspect Oil Drain Pan, Drain Plug Gasket, Oil Pan Gasket
14. Full Radiator Flush and refill with distilled water + Add Anti Rust (Weston 920 LLC). Where to find anti rust? Brand? Price? - Distilled water 6L - RM 6. / Toyota Super Long life Coolant - RM25/L - RM 150 full replacement.
15. PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve - Where to get? Price?
16. Timing Belt Full Service with Water Pump and belt tensioner = RM 170
17. Replace Accessory Drive Belt (if applicable).
18. Transmission Oil - GL4, 75W90, SAE80. 2L (Need only 1.8L) - RM 160.
19. Transmission Oil Filter - where to find? Price?
19.1 Drain and Inspect Transmission Oil Pan, Change T/Oil Pan Gasket, Change T/Oil Drain Plug Gasket.
20. Full transmission service - pan examiation and cleaning, reinstall with new gasket, replace seals and O-rings. - RM 40 - need to add friction modifier ?
21. Check for engine oil leaks. UV.
22. Check for transmission oil leaks. UV.
23. Check for fuel system leaks. UV.
24. Check for radiator leaks. UV.
25. Check spark plugs for rich condition and oil leaks.
26. Does this car have an O2 sensor/ mass airflow sensor? Answered: Does NOT.
27. Check engine noise at specific RPM 2450-2500 rpm regardless of acceleration or gear. Bellowing deep noise at this specific RPM.
28. Is decarbonization needed?
29. Check transmission mount?
30. Some gearbox bearing noise? zzzz noise. Check all bearings that need replacing.
31. Replace drivetrain/driveshaft seals? Needed?
32. Inspect/Replace U Joints.
33. Replace rear axle lubricant.
34. Check if engine idling is ok with AC on and off. Ac off engine idles at 1.5k rpm.... why car doesnt auto-adjust rpm? computer control problem? Answered: Need to calibrate via carburetor, car does not have ECU.
35. Replace the distributor cap and rotor. Set ignition timing.
36. Replace spark plug cables 56.
37. Inspect spark plug wires.
38. Recalibrate autochoke !!!
39. Check all boots/plastics - CV axle boots for tears, steering boots, drive shaft boots, all other boots.
40. Check exhaust back presure.


Brake System
1. Change Brake Pads - RM50 (front) + RM 55 (Rear) - Full Set - RM 105
2. Flush/Bleed Brake Lines, replace brake fluid (SAE J1703, DOT3). - RM 25
3. Check for suspected leaks/internal rust when flushing.


Free Play Checks:
1. Steering Wheel - 20mm
2. Clutch Pedal - 20mm
3. Brake Pedal - 10mm
4. Handbrake - 5 notches.

Lubrication checks for moving parts (WD40 ?):
1. Hood latch
2. Hood lock
3. Door hinges
4. Door latch
5. Trunk hinges
6. Trunk latch
7. Ignition Switch ? - Normal WD40.
8. Windows - getting rough/jerky again. - WD40 "silicon lube".
9. Lubricate ALL - and I mean ALL BEARINGS !!!! Spray INSIDE !!!

Electrical System Checks
1. Lights (High beam, low beam, pre-on)
2. Signal Lights (Left and right, Front, middle and back, hazard lights)
3. Cabin light
4. Instrument panel light - left side sometime on, sometime off.
5. Wipers
6. Horn - not loud enough.
7. Gauges (Fuel gauge needs replacement (loose), some gauges turn on and off by themselves - check wiring etc)
8. A/C on/off
9. Cigarette Lighter
10. Fuse box items in general

AC System Checks
1. Check coolant levels.
2. Clean Radiator.
3. Check AC Compressor Clutch?
4. Clean Condensor.
5. Wrap all AC lines with foam.
6. Clean Blower Filter
7. Change AC Compressor Oil.


Ride Control, Handling, Noise/Vibration/Harshness, Safety Checks
1. Tyres - Currently using 175/70/R13 at 250 kPa for all tyres, should be using 155/S/R13 at 160kPa for all. Should be 190kPa back if got 5th passanger and luggage.
2. Suspension
3. Balancing + Alignment
4. Shock Absorbers - flat d at the back
5. Control Bars etc.
5. Bushings - rear axle bush, strut bush, stabilizer bush, steering bush - etc etc. - what else uses bushings?
6. 3M UV Filter. For UV. - cost ?
7. Whole car dynamat - for noise.
8. Wind Noise - 3m rubber door seal?
9. Anti Fog Inside
10. Windscreen Washer Fluid and Check Washer Spray system alignment
11. Wax windscreen for better water removal.
12. Add power steering for comfort - RM 1k
13. Wipers - Silicon Wiper Blades + Clean with denatured alcohol + clean winshield with winshield cleaner.

Body Protection:
1. Rust Removal and Anti Rust Treatment, Patch rust holes. QuickGlo? Metal Rescue soak overnight? Dry coat rust preventive spray? Rustoleum - Rusty Metal Primer?
2. Repaint?
3. Wax protection.
4. Apply body undercoat?

Notes:
1. Battery is maintenance-free type.


Im trying my best to make this car go to reach 500k mileage. And I know for one that doing proper maintenance is way cheaper than new car monthly loan payments. Please help me make it happen. I can get parts online. Any shops recommended? Thanks.

This post has been edited by oldiswaraowner: Jul 12 2017, 05:15 AM

Tire pressure too high for 175/70/13 size. Should be around 190-210kpa

Thanks for the tip.

I put 220 once in those tyres. All air come out from tyre. Went to tyre shop, he put 250. These are brand new tyres btw. Just change like 7 months back. Usually tyres can last 10 years right?

Here's the story. The last set of tyres lasted 10 years before replaced Dec last year. Already got multiple tear on sidewalls, swelling, when drive cant go more than 30kmh else car wobble like broken washing machine on spin cycle with a brick in it. So i guess that was literally the maximum durability that those tyres could handle - 10 years. Totally botak licin like race tyre slicks. They had as much grip as a lubricated condom. Michelin btw. Quality. Previous owner put one. So teruk condition d still didnt burst or cause accident. I can really respect that company.

Thing is I didnt realize that these tyres are wrong spec for my car. Should be 155 width i/o 175. I just only going through the owner's manual. 5 year car ownership only this week saw the manual. Kedai say my rim worn out d. I dont really know how to tell. Maybe after I change to official spec 155 width can make start using recommended pressure?

Right now tyres are new, and working fine so I dont care. My main concerns right now are the core internals. The ride, handling, comfort stuff like tyres, suspension, struts, solar film, dynamat, all that for later. Right now very low on cash. So my focus right now on what are the core parts I need to ABSOLUTELY keep in good condition atm to ensure that my car can reach 500k mileage.

Gearbox oil 5 years never touch. Engine oil 7 months d. Right now the dipstick at "min" d. Thats why compiling list of CORE items that need to be kept tip top so that can service all the CORE stuff in one go. When got cash then can do the non-core items. Only reason im focusing the core items is so that to save money so that dont because saving RM20 item, have to fix major RM 700 item/overhaul/rebuild transmission or major repairs.

Help me with the core pls. What is the bare minimum I need to spend to keep ONLY the CORE in tip top condition? Non-core later also slowly slow can ma. :-)

You should change your tyres every 2 years. Your tyres are the most important part of the car. They are the only part of the car that is in contact with the road. Bad tyres cause accidents.

hi bro, you can check one website ecsenang.com, it's not the cheapest online for Iswara parts but at least you can get the picture about price per parts. I have spent RM15k restoring and repairing my 25 year old Proton Saga, engine still go strong but I'll prepare the money required for engine rebuild.

OMG THANKS !!!! I was just about to ask where I can get parts for super cheap and you already advise before I even ask!

Thanks a lot man. Now where can I get a shop that will be cool with me bringing in my own cheap part for repair and not get pissed off when he see that I bring my own part? Im kinda like "close to broke" atm so each ringgit needs to be carefully spent. I'm ok and willing to spend as long keeps the car's core (emphasis added to core) in good condition. Any non-core spending later only. Really dont have cash to burn atm.

Now.... just need to find a willing shop...

Edit: Update: I found the cheapest parts can be found here - like literally half price from lelong/ladaza/iprice: protonperoduaparts.com.my. Is this site reliable though?

ecsenang.... has the highest price compared to all 4 sites.....i cry.

This post has been edited by oldiswaraowner: Jul 11 2017, 02:29 AM

Any good shop that I can go to that will do a full and through diagnostic first at a reasonable cost just for the diagnostic/full check up? Or through check all the systems and tell me what needs to be outright replaced, what just needs to be cleaned, and what is still in good condition and can last a little longer. Or just a shop that can go through my list and do all the diagnostic checking and give me a quotation - maybe I can select items?

Note: Im more than willing to buy required parts myself from online. This is so that I can save money.

This is so that I can get a reasonable quotation before I get any work done on the car. Maybe I can double check the price quoted myself as well and compare with online parts cost (separate parts and labor) because im tight on the cash side. But which shop to go to? Need a shop recommendation please.

This post has been edited by oldiswaraowner: Jul 11 2017, 07:28 AM

as far as i know, there is no shop that sell super cheap everything. if you want super cheap everything, be prepared to visit a few spare part shops...

Usually for iswara, visual inspection can see most of the problem and where leaking already.

Since u are tight on cash, try to sort out things you can diy first, firstly, degrese and wash the engine bay, then start your visial inspection. Do an extensive maintenance this round like replace engine oil, air filter, spark plug cable, adjust tapet, adjust distributor to original setting...

500k mileage is a piece of cake for this car. I have an 1994 iswara at home that clocked almost 800,000 km . it was pass down from my mom to my grand ma, then grand pa, then cousin brother, me, my younger cousin brother and now my youngest cousin sister.




This post has been edited by xemoboyx: Jul 11 2017, 03:46 AM

wash engine bay, new timing belt, change engine oil, change gear oil, change spark plug, adjust carburetor, adjust distributor, flush radiator, add new coolant, inspect thermostat, inspect radiator fan. If anywhere leaking oil or water, change the oil seal or rubber hoses.

dont forget to change timing belt. it can be a costly lesson.

After this round of maintenance, your car engine will be good for the next 10 years with regular oil change.

and by the way. your car got no ECU. so all you need is a screw driver to adjust all those things that is out of tune. There is no "computer" to adjust the RPM, cold start, aircond bla bla bla...

oh yea. don't go to workshop asking for injector cleaning services or airflow sensor cleaner because your car is CARBURETOR.

Replacing engine oil tomorrow. Too critical already. What is the viscocity rating for the engine oil and transmission oil that you are using for your 800k 94 Iswara?

Also, how did you prevent radiator rust? The radiator flush you DIY or send shop (what price if shop)?

Adjust carbutator mean adjust the 3 screws right?

Where to go to adjust distributor and tapet (Tapet is the hydraulic valve lifter right)? Service center? Or got any recommended shop in KL?

Thanks for the info man! First time I heard the word "tapet" and learn something new today. :-)

Ok.... so no computer/ECU and everything done via carb. That fuel injector cleaning forgot to remove as its either carburetor OR fuel injection. my bad.

What I didn't yet know however if my Iswara had an airflow sensor or not. Apparently this is only for fuel injecton cars. Did not know that earlier, now I do. Thanks for the info.

So learnt something new: ECU and Mass Airflow Sensor only come with Fuel Injection engines as a set that works together.

Just flush your radiator every 4 years or 100k km. Your radiator and water pipe internal will look brand new. Anyways that's to prevent rust. To clean rust, u can just flush your radiator with water multiple of times till the water is clear and zero sign of brown color. After that, refill the system with new coolant of your choice.. proton engine isn't picky on coolant. As for engine oil. 10w40 should just do fine.

adjust carb is that 3 screw, to tune it, the steps can be found in saga iswara enthuiast forum in lowyat.net or zerotohundred(if you search and google hard enough lol)

and as for finding a mechanic to adjust all these setting for you, i'm sorry to say that. these are obsolete skills. you have to either find a skillful and kind workshop owner that is willing to invest their time to tune the car up for you or you can always buy a timing light and learn how to DIY it yourself.

adjusting the distributor is just 2 screw holding it, you can push it towards the radiator fan to advance or push towards the firewall to retard the timing. As for tapet, most workshop can adjust for you, just need filler gauge and some dedication.

Just saw a video on how to tune the tapet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ssGI8NKHNE

All this while, what i thought to be the engine was actually just the rocker arm assembly. Wow. Real eye opener.

If anyone knows any mechanic that can handle tapet tuning, distributor tuning and carburetor tuning, pls recommend here. Since this is once every 10 years tuning, willing to let experienced pro do it right. :-)

Watched a youtube video yesterday using the light technique for distributor tuning ... but I dont have the light and better let pro do it the first time round.

Below are the things you might left out :

Change absorber link front and rear. (tulang anjing)

Change lower arm left and right.

Change steering bush and absorber mounting.

Change drive shaft left and right.

My cousin used to own a persona. Repair until he vomit blood. Every 2 weeks need to service and takes hours.

Then bought himself a used myvi after family and friends intervention.

Hardly need to service now.

The amount of money and frustrations and times you spent on your aging Iswara might as well get a used Axia.

Can anyone suggest a reputable and low/decent cost shop that can tune my engine (timing/distributor screw, valve gaps screw) and carburetor(choke screw, idle mixture screw, idle screw, fast idle solenoid screw)?

**Basically tuning engine and carburetor involves turning a lot of screws only.**

Or any shop that usually do racing stuff know how to properly tune engines and carbs right? Any recommendation?

Here's the deal. Atm my Iswara is like your Myvi. Hardly need to service. Like 7 months d since last service - running smoothly almost daily or every 2 days once until just about recently.

And say I do full "high mileage" service also, probably cost less than 2-3 months of your car installments and can last 1 full year (with multiple service intervals). This is why I prefer to maintain rather than buy new car. The expense of a new car is extreme for me. For the past 5 years, all i did was change the engine oil. That was literally all. Well, that and topping up radiator water every now and then.

Edit: Forgot I changed the tyres as well.... but those things lasted a good 10 years hehe. Used until become racing slicks then only change.

This post has been edited by oldiswaraowner: Jul 11 2017, 07:48 AM

For such an old car why do you want to do so much? How long do you expect to keep the car? If I were you I will just do the minimum and prepare to upgrade. The older the car the more difficult to maintain. You are unlikely to get away with just changing engine oil for the next 5 years even if you do everything on your list.

i most dulan is in jam slow moving can feel the car engine wanna mati ..
in the end sold my old 2005 waja for 10500 recently ..