Reviewing the pictures, one of them being a full height fixed glass, that one seems to be. Anyhow, get more varied opinion first and resist the temptation to fix it fast. What I've experienced as well as learnt from others sharing is that the leaks more often than not, never happen at the spot of occurrence. They originate elsewhere. This is common with roof leakages that is seen dribbling down the walls rather than from a misaligned tile or a cracked one which is easy to spot. And they come back during a heavy downpour even though it was 'fixed'.

Consult a facade specialist as to what type of product they use to weather seal. Not the brand but the type based on chemical composition or silicone, acrylic, PU, hybrid, etc. Which can stand UV, which can be painted over, which one can flex with movement from wind or pressure and still retain its shape without leakage, resistant to common failure at the joints due to sagging under its own weight or changing chemical composition that varies it's sealing performance.

The best way is to simulate a rain and diagnose. Probing with a slightly pressurised hose (not too strong but those with a twist adjusted pressure nozzle used in the garden or washing up on the yard) in situ should be able to reveal since not all the time we catch the leak during the rain. This is way more accurate since one can control the test and observe the results.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jul 6 2017, 09:08 AM

Btw, this sealant being neutral cure is excellent for kitchen and bathroom esp sealing the joint and gap around stainless steel sinks.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jul 6 2017, 01:47 PM

you sure the leak is from the window?

one project i worked on before the leak is at the window. but in the end actually the leak is like a meter above the window. the contractors drill tons of holes into the wall surrounding the leak and shoot some sorta foam type sealant thing that is supposed to squeeze through all those gaps and stuff. in the end all kaotim, no more leak. but it took a long time and lots of lobang.

PU. It expands then they cut out excess and apply cement to seal I suppose.

Look up Nippon Flexiseal

ahhh yes. this thing. was damn messy. a lot of clean up work and scraping off excess. but in the end settle.

This is a membrane not paint.

The thing is by right proper window installation would have resolved this using a combination of water seal membrane (mostly EPDM type), raised "I joint" profile where windows is installed. Window frame sits on the "I joint" profile with the membrane touching the external side of the I (faces out). There could be sealant applied to make it water tight esp where the membrane on all corners meet and also between membrane and I joint. A cementitious filler is applied into the remaining gap before general cement screed. The other end pieces are added with the appropriate weather durable sealant and flash joint pieces of any are added or a weather seal paint coat is applied before painting over. Bottom part must be able to drain and is sloped.

The skill of the installer is crucial otherwise it is as good as not having these things. Also is the window frame becomes disjointed during installation or after years of operation and if the outer sealant in contact with it is insufficient to accommodate the stretch caused by it, a leakage path is introduced.

After hearing all this and reading it from the window installation and leakage specialist what with all that possible failures caused by sealant failures (contributed by anything from age to joint failure due to weathering and movement), you can surmise this will be an ongoing issue.

I think I would try out a contractor and supply the MS Polymer Xtraseal 601 to apply.

I have the same problem, my window frame is “tearing”

hey guys, reading this and i have a similar issue. can anyone recommend a contractor?