Looks like the paint on external wall is not really well applied. What kind of paint was that? Maybe cut cost application with no undercoat
Windows Surrounding Water Leak, Only happen during heavy rain
Windows Surrounding Water Leak, Only happen during heavy rain
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Jun 28 2017, 12:48 PM
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Senior Member
7,936 posts Joined: Mar 2014 |
Except for the bathroom floor, the cement are not mixed with waterproofing material because the water would just slips down the wall. However if the water is trapped, it will seep into the cement and wet the other side. So, acrylic paint will prevent this this from happening.
Looks like the paint on external wall is not really well applied. What kind of paint was that? Maybe cut cost application with no undercoat |
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Jun 28 2017, 01:08 PM
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All Stars
10,510 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Atlanta |
QUOTE(Richard @ Jun 28 2017, 11:39 AM) I agree.. Of course swimming pool and external wall is different in nature.However the application of the paint is for water seepage on a vertical outdoor wall.. which is a short period of water splash and open ventilation to air dry.. Not a swimming pool.. you will need a membrane layer for this type application .. There is a big difference of applications in your examples.. What I am trying to explain is the different of 'weather proof' and 'water proof'. And external paint is fall under weather proof category. |
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Jun 28 2017, 02:51 PM
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1,083 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Kota Kinabalu |
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Jun 28 2017, 04:28 PM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 28 2017, 10:07 AM) You need to check exactly where it leak. When rain, check the leaking inside and outside. The leak might come from the aluminium frame corner joint. Yes, they used this xtraseal 100% neutral silicone SN-501 to seal those aluminium frame to frame joints - http://www.xtraseal.com/tds/1412560702TDS%...e%20Sealant.pdfBy this way, you can find a solution to solve the leak. When using silicon to seal the leak between windows and base, do not use normal silicone. Use the caulk type silicone. Normal silicone can't last long. And they used this xtraseal acrylic sealant MC800 to apply on window cement sill and the frame joint - http://www.xtraseal.com/tds/1738015279TDS%...x%20Sealant.pdf |
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Jun 28 2017, 04:30 PM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
QUOTE(Zot @ Jun 28 2017, 12:48 PM) Except for the bathroom floor, the cement are not mixed with waterproofing material because the water would just slips down the wall. However if the water is trapped, it will seep into the cement and wet the other side. So, acrylic paint will prevent this this from happening. The house is subsale which already have painted. The contractor applied two layers of Dulux Weathershield on top of the existing paints without any primer or sealer.Looks like the paint on external wall is not really well applied. What kind of paint was that? Maybe cut cost application with no undercoat |
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Jun 28 2017, 04:33 PM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
A so-called waterproofing specialist contractor suggested the following with quoted 3k+ for 14 windows with 5 years warranty, to do something like on the pic:
1) Apply waterproof cement on the window frame cement surrounding 2) Apply waterproof liquid on the surrounding which penetrate into the window frame holes 3) Repaint Is this reliable? He is using this waterproof cement type instead sealant/silicone because he said the sealant/silicone does not last long in our climate ![]() This post has been edited by echoesian: Jul 3 2017, 12:00 AM |
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Jun 28 2017, 04:49 PM
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7,936 posts Joined: Mar 2014 |
QUOTE(echoesian @ Jun 28 2017, 04:33 PM) A so-called waterproofing specialist contractor suggested the following with quoted 3k+ with 5 years warranty, to do something like on the pic: Wah... Looks so extensive. I dunno how many windows are there to be sealed to say if the 3k+ is worth the cost, but it should be working since they are willing to warranty for 5 years... I guess 1) Apply waterproof cement on the window frame cement surrounding 2) Apply waterproof liquid on the surrounding which penetrate into the window frame holes 3) Take off existing sealant on the frame and sill joint and reapply back new sealant Is this reliable? ![]() |
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Jun 28 2017, 05:26 PM
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2,140 posts Joined: Nov 2010 |
QUOTE(echoesian @ Jun 28 2017, 04:33 PM) A so-called waterproofing specialist contractor suggested the following with quoted 3k+ with 5 years warranty, to do something like on the pic: That's assuming the window anchoring point design is seepage resistant which is unknowable since neither he nor you witness it during construction. Seepage due to mismatch of sealant is the current symptom combined with a seepage path as obviously seen inside.1) Apply waterproof cement on the window frame cement surrounding 2) Apply waterproof liquid on the surrounding which penetrate into the window frame holes 3) Take off existing sealant on the frame and sill joint and reapply back new sealant Is this reliable? ![]() If building management have the construction details for the windows by the original installer, perhaps an experienced window installer that specialises in weathering issues could scrutinise if it's ok or there's a design flaw against wind driven intrusion and take a best shot approach to remediate but even that does not guarantee anything. It takes a lot of know how to make a tight building envelope and windows is a common place where this issue occur. At least with dry area balcony doors, weather strips can easily DIYed by home owner. The only way to ensure it's reliable is to have it rebuild but that assumes management will allow due to high winds and the risk of things like furniture and people being sucked out. Assuming the most probable outcome, it will be a gamble. Acrylic is not a good choice for sealing due to weathering altering it's elastic properties over time ie cracking. It may not endure our weather pattern. See the Sika pdf URL I attached above in my earlier reply. This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jun 28 2017, 06:04 PM |
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Jun 28 2017, 08:04 PM
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Senior Member
1,083 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Kota Kinabalu |
QUOTE(echoesian @ Jun 28 2017, 04:33 PM) A so-called waterproofing specialist contractor suggested the following with quoted 3k+ with 5 years warranty, to do something like on the pic: Seriously? 1) Apply waterproof cement on the window frame cement surrounding 2) Apply waterproof liquid on the surrounding which penetrate into the window frame holes 3) Take off existing sealant on the frame and sill joint and reapply back new sealant Is this reliable? ![]() rm3k+ just to apply a weather/water proofing seal around the perimeter of a single 6'x4' window? |
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Jun 29 2017, 11:23 AM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
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Jul 2 2017, 11:11 PM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
Anyone can recommend a reliable contractor to repair this problem ?
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Jul 3 2017, 12:02 AM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
Apparently, the contractor method is to take off the old sealants and apply waterproof cement + liquid instead of sealant because he said sealant/silicone does not last long in our climate. Is this true? I don't really believe, if such a case then many new houses from developer would have the same issue?
This post has been edited by echoesian: Jul 3 2017, 12:02 AM |
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Jul 3 2017, 08:41 AM
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2,140 posts Joined: Nov 2010 |
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Jul 3 2017, 09:55 AM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
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Jul 3 2017, 10:44 AM
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2,140 posts Joined: Nov 2010 |
QUOTE(echoesian @ Jul 3 2017, 09:55 AM) My take is it's a combination of "both and" rather than "either or". Waterproofing cement is to prevent seepages into the walls and forms the foundational layer even before the window frame is installed. Sealant is on the joints and flashing where it meets the wall etc. Sealant has many types depending on application. Use the correct one is where it counts. Waterproofing cement is probably like a waterproof primer coat and works best even before window frame is laid. Like I mentioned before, a seepage resistant design helps which makes the application of cement coat and sealant effective due to a layered protection approach. This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jul 3 2017, 10:49 AM |
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Jul 3 2017, 07:51 PM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
QUOTE(halcyon27 @ Jul 3 2017, 10:44 AM) My take is it's a combination of "both and" rather than "either or". Waterproofing cement is to prevent seepages into the walls and forms the foundational layer even before the window frame is installed. Sealant is on the joints and flashing where it meets the wall etc. So, meaning that they used the wrong sealant? - http://www.xtraseal.com/tds/1738015279TDS%...x%20Sealant.pdf ?Sealant has many types depending on application. Use the correct one is where it counts. Waterproofing cement is probably like a waterproof primer coat and works best even before window frame is laid. Like I mentioned before, a seepage resistant design helps which makes the application of cement coat and sealant effective due to a layered protection approach. |
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Jul 3 2017, 08:21 PM
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2,140 posts Joined: Nov 2010 |
QUOTE(echoesian @ Jul 3 2017, 07:51 PM) So, meaning that they used the wrong sealant? - http://www.xtraseal.com/tds/1738015279TDS%...x%20Sealant.pdf ? Google "fenestration caulk sealant" and read up a bit then compare the types available. Here's one example.This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jul 3 2017, 08:46 PM |
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Jul 4 2017, 07:06 PM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
I'm dilemma now not sure which contractor to choose from. Most of the contractors recommend to replace the sealant with better sealant. One of them is recommending replacing sealant with waterproof cement and liquid.
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Jul 5 2017, 09:42 AM
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2,140 posts Joined: Nov 2010 |
Go back to your pictures again and verify if the frame sits lowers than the outside. Mine was like that. Hence eventually after even a year or two the leaks came back. Installation defect from day one. West facing facade experience the harshest sun. Hence the weathering rate is accelerated. Read up first based on what I shared esp the pdf. You can decide the best course of action from there. But expect periodic maintenance as this is something that won't go away even in well designed ones, sealants/caulk eventually have to be stripped and reapplied.
This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jul 5 2017, 05:21 PM |
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Jul 5 2017, 07:25 PM
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3,294 posts Joined: Dec 2005 |
QUOTE(halcyon27 @ Jul 5 2017, 09:42 AM) Go back to your pictures again and verify if the frame sits lowers than the outside. Mine was like that. Hence eventually after even a year or two the leaks came back. Installation defect from day one. West facing facade experience the harshest sun. Hence the weathering rate is accelerated. Read up first based on what I shared esp the pdf. You can decide the best course of action from there. But expect periodic maintenance as this is something that won't go away even in well designed ones, sealants/caulk eventually have to be stripped and reapplied. The frame does not sit lower than outside. So, applying waterproof cement to plaster the frame tightly does not make sense? Still using sealant is the best choice? |
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