Sure it will do the job. Just use tile bit for tile and masonry for wall for best result.

Talking about wall, I meant cement layer brick wall. Concrete is something different. It is not easy to drill with this impact drill. As you know concrete is mix of cement and gravel stones. If the drill bit lands on hard stone, you need more than sweat to drill through if it moves.    Concrete need rotary hammer type 

If you are not much into concrete but more on house wall (not beam or column), then the one you choose will be just fine. Do consider GSR 18V-50 too. More up to date brushless motor but about twice the price.

Plastic or wood(?) does not matter I think. I think the plug is made of jute until now plastic become common.

My plug fit nicely with 6mm concrete drill and so I have the 6mm tile bit as well. 

It is said that

Model no's - GSR means the tool is drive and drill, while GSB means its these and hammer mode. However the GSR18V-50 data mentioned about impact drilling 

I'm no Bosch expert here. I know we have people well verse on Bosch, but I'd choose 18V system.

Do't need to think much. In future you would not replace, but buy additional 
Let see what others said.....

Your wall is made of concrete/AAC blocks (usually condos) or clay/sand bricks (usually older landed)
good for brick wall only, not good for concrete, you take 5-10 mins per hole security will come and check on you.
The hole need to match your screw size and wall plug size. typically 5.5mm or 6.0mm. Wood better.
Plastic one easy to pull out whilst wood one expands like a faux sleeve anchor and gives a stronger bite.
GSR = R for reversible
GSB = B for bang (impact function)
the hammer mode is weak and only for brick walls. Rotary hammer strongly recommended for concrete wall.

How to tell the difference?

Rotary hammer usually use SDS+ (slotted) drill bits.
Spec sheet will indicate impact energy in Joules.
Starts from 149 for corded no name ones, 3xx for corded stanley SHR263, around 4xx for bosch GBH180-LI or 2-24/makita HR2470/hitachi [tool only for cordless - no battery/corded]. Hitachi one only rm345 hitachi rotary hammer

Impact drill/"drill w/hammer mode" stuff usually much cheaper (from 40 to 300 bucks) and use round shank bits. Spec sheet will say many tens of thousands of bpm (beats per minute).
18V tools are more useful coz more powerful, but if you're only using the drill driver for LIGHT DUTY wood/metal/small wall plug on brick walls, you can consider 12V coz its lighter.

Can also consider getting one corded rotary hammer [value for money powerful for concrete] + one cordless drill driver [for use as cordless screwdriver].

Most wall is red clay brick, cement brick or AAC block. If you share wall with neighbor, special brick is used that withstands higher temperature.

AAC block (though called concrete) is not a load bearing material. It is even softer than normal brick. You can even screw direct on it. Concrete is normally the beam and column of the house.

I'd go with the 18V which has more power. Since it is multi purpose and can be used as driver, being battery operated is something handy. If you need a rotary hammer in future a cheaper corded model is suffice since it is more occasionally used (unless you become pro) 

Drilling using impact mode will increase the chance of breaking the mosaic (Not sure if you are referring to normal ceramic tile or that small 1 inch square mosaic  )

For ceramic tile, you should use drill bit for ceramic (spade shape), not the cement/concrete drill bit.

Here are good guide:

Mosaic means a pattern or picture made using many small pieces of colored stone or glass 

Yes.... usually that small 1"x1" porcelain pcs popular in 70's is referred as mosaic. Sometime I also confused which is which between porcelain and ceramic.    Ceramic is usually used for bathroom wall and porcelain which is harder is used for flooring.

It is soft but using drill hammering mode can break it. The spade shaped drill bit  can easily drill through and once reached cement, changed to masonry bit.

If you find it is hard make bit stay in same place during initial drill due to slippery surface, it is suggested that you put a tape (either masking or electrical tape. I just lightly use nail and hammer it lightly to chip the surface a bit before drilling. Just hammer it light not to break the tile. 

Use ceramic bit. Run slow and drip a bit water during drill will help preserve the bit. Never use impact for tiles.

Okies, impact just wall the wall / cement right?

ceramic tiles ? got any crack beside the hole ?
wat drill bit you used ?
thanks ..

The size of hole is the size of the wall bracket hole bolt that you are going to use obviously.

Does your brackets comes with bolt and nuts? The weight is lateral to the bolt direction. So, not too much chance that the bolt will slide out. Anyway, TV nowadays is not heavy like few years before 

Not familiar. Hand TV cabinet?    I thought want to put TV bracket on the wall 

TV cabinet (BESTA) hanging on the wall, is using the suspension rail.
Similar to METOD kitchen.. you just need the cheese head screws (not CSK flat head), 2 inches screws and 50mm wall plug is sufficient. The weight is distributed among 10-15 screws so each one take less than 10kg.

Wooden door? Why not just wedge with wood slice and use wood glue that you can buy from MrDIY 

You cal also but wood peg. Glue into hole and redo.

Actually one of the shortcut method is you can slice up other wall plug to stuff inside, or matches (cut away the head).
Alternatively you can also buy bigger wall plug, they come in diff diameter, smallest one is no.8 5.5mm hole, medium no.10 6mm hole, no.12 will fit 6.5/7mm hole. This is referring to wooden type wall plug, the plastic one loosen easily.