Amedion:

For your current Equipment/setup, can only grow some hardy plants like moss/fern/anubias. I think your pH should be slightly higher than 7. and STOP ADDING SALT if you want to add plants.

The type of fishes in your tank are call "African ciclids" which prefer pH 7 and above. They are what i call "Fresh water fish with Salt water fishes' color"

How old is this current setup? less than a week? I suggest you cycle yr tank or any fish you add will jsut keep dying.

Anyway, if you're interested in cichlids, I've some of these to let go :

Amedion,

I suggest you dont do anything, dont buy anything, dont add anything till you've read enough on the internet. Can google for lots of information on how to cycle a tank. try "Tank cycling".

The current fishes in your tank, feed minimum once for 2-3 days. next few day, what you will see is very cloudy water Go read more and you shall know what to do. Very LONG grandmother story if we were to type here.

Amedion: Most probably in the lobster's stomach. What type of fish do u have? i see only Yellow labs, cant make out what are the rest. Take note, cichlids can be pretty aggressive

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Added on May 20, 2008, 1:31 pmby the way, i dont understand what you mean by "crystal rock". Just 1 day is insufficient for beneficial bacteria to be established in your tank, on your filter medias, and all surfaces in your tank.

This post has been edited by presario316: May 20 2008, 01:31 PM

Amedion:

Not necessity to add salt in a Malawi-setup kinda tank you know? or any other fresh water tanks.

We add salt for 2 purposes(that i know of)
1) Helps the fishes to generate a layer of coating to protect itself against harmful parasites/illness bla bla bla

2) parasites that causes velvet and white spot/ich (i cant remmeber the name of it) hates salt!

For malawi tanks, things you'll need to dose are KH Buffers. You can DIY yours. Search online for the recipe. it's a mixture of baking soda, epsom salt...and somethign else i think. Not very sure. Helps maintain the pH above 7. Cos cichlids require pH that's above 7. Malawi's usually 7-8, Tanganyikans need 8 and above.

For your tank size, the only cichlid i can think of are Shell dwellers (Can be found at SLS...ONLY!) Or else, you can try South America cichlids like Apistogamma, Pelvicachromis etc. South America cichlids water parameter is the opposite of african cichlids. Do take note.

But they have very nice colorations and their size remain small (those i mention above), about 2 inches.

If you really want to have a salt water setup, be prepared to dish in more $$ It's more complicated than just adding SALT! Good luck!

Ame:
Try google "Pelvicachromis taeniatus" and "Apistogramma". These are soft water fishes, softwater cichlids. NO tank is sufficient if you overstock it with fauna. Your tank will do just nice for a pair of any of these.


Apistogramma cacatuoides
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:2Hx2pH...%2520Red%27.jpg


Pelvicachromis taeniatus

http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:JbSh73...xy/apulcher.jpg

http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:zyZGt_...61/P1030070.JPG


Ame, You used to sell handfons in the forum ?

This post has been edited by presario316: May 22 2008, 06:19 PM

I'm the one of those odd one that changes the photoperiod timing for my planted tank, and the rest of my tanks. I only have my lights on at night, when i'm in the living room where my fish rack and tanks are. I dont see a point of having the lights on when i'm not home, and lights out when i'm home

Just like any other living creature, plants need time to get use to the routine. After one or two months with the same routine, they'll be fine. However, many planted tank gurus are against this idea. But anyway, my plants are hardy and low requirement plants, so not much problem, i dont mind even if it's not growing promptly, as long as it's alive

12-14 hours? too long later you gonna have a "green tank"....



This post has been edited by presario316: May 24 2008, 11:32 AM

I dont mind you switching your lights on at night and off in the day because i'm doing tthe same. As long as your plants have gotten used to it and growing well, it's ok.

WHat i meant to say is that if you have LOTS of lights for a LONG period, and INSUFFICIENT plants in your tank, you gonna give something else a chance to grow-----ALGAE!

To have good planted tank...to grow plants and not algae...you need to balance out the supply of Lights, CO2 and nutrients in the water. Excess or insufficient of these, you either see your plants rotting/melting/dying or algae growth. And that itself is another chapter to your adventure into planted tanks. take note my friend.

All my tanks are in living room where air cond is usually on from 8-12am. It's not very good for the temperature fluctuations, but fortunately, so far so good. not much problem

daytime temperature about 26-27 Celsius. at nite and early morning between 22-24 celsius.

on what type of plants are the hair algae growing on?

Can try using an old toothbrush twist and twirl like how u do to your magee mee

and of cos, no one's stopping you ffrom using yoru fingers as well. Dont worry, it wont sting you!

at the same time, how long are your lights on? if too long, cut short.If low tech tank, I tink bout 6 hours is sufficient.

reduce fish food! they wont die easily without food but they will die very quickly if over fed.

Do not overstock with fauna. More fish, more waste, more algae, more illness.....and more DEATHS!

If it's not over stock, can try putting in some algae eating faunas like SAE, snails and yamato shrimps.

Amedion,

I have a CPU fan blowing on my water surface 24/7 and my fish corner is located at a cool place.

Jamien,

I think your plant's Hairgrass.

Try google for "Siamese algae eater".
Do google for the Difference of Siamese Algae Eater and Flying Fox.
They are two different fishes. The useful one would be SAE. Do buy a young fish about 1.5-2 inches

This post has been edited by presario316: May 31 2008, 11:18 AM

HAHA...Planted tank sifu--> Spacemonkeh is in the HOUSE!!!

Amedion, quickly shoot questions to him!

very nicely done Taro

this is my version of an "office nano" just started last week.

-roughly i tink about 1.5 liter.
-no fert or co2
-lighting-office's lights
- fauna-1 rasbora briggitae
-plants- flame moss on lava rocks.
-substrate-ADA Amazonia
Water change with a pipet, about 25% of water every week, going to try do it more often.







This post has been edited by presario316: Jun 19 2008, 01:24 PM

with tank that small, and u plan to cycle this tank, just put in one fish and leave it there for 2 weeks. Try use a betta

Bigger tank= more water= Fluctuation lesser=less danger for fishes.
smaller tank=less water= fluctuation higher=more danger for fishes

WC=Water Change

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Added on June 21, 2008, 9:12 amWhy not get a glass tank? very much nicer.

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Added on June 21, 2008, 9:29 amgoldfries,

Long time no see planning to start another aquarium?


This post has been edited by presario316: Jun 21 2008, 09:29 AM

GF: what do you have in those 2 tanks? gold fishes??

"Get a fan" here meaning install a "PC FAN" on top of your tank, to blow on to the water surface. Water evaporation takes off heat from the water. Check out Aqua hobbist website, most likely under the DIY section for such a setup.

32celsius...pretty high. Is it outdoor? Fishes you can keep in such temperature, maybe some koi, goldfish and cichlids. Or other local fishes like pacu etc...

with such high temperature( if it's constant)....sure wont get hit by Ick/whitespot.

coldfusionpower : Show show your new ciclid tank la new pic new pics!

ANyone interested in cichlids?

I'm thinking to decomm my 3ft Malawi tank, with loads of Cynotilapia Afra 'Hai Reef' and some Yellow labs.

PM me for details.