agree with you on your points.
but what i'm trying to get at is that the implementation of a strut bar is to improve the performance of the car, right?

1. but comparing no strut bar with wider tires (more grip),

2. as compared with strut bar with standard eco tires,


which would you put your money in?
mine would be on wider tires first (aquaplaning being a price to pay for improved dry grip and slower wet top speed)
and a hit to the fuel consumption..

but, as i said, agreeing with you, my car is stock standard....


at the moment... heh

my past mods for cars is mainly for safety reasons, like brake pads/disc and tires, brake hoses (braided stainless steel) but seldom on engine for more power being that if more power is required, get a car manufactured with more power.

best bet to go faster, imo, is to have smooth driving pattern, ie, cornering, changing lanes, etc
but most of all is to read the traffic, and drivers around you and adjust accordingly..
and get to destination as quickly as safely possible.

so sorry!!
i did not explain myself well...
changing brake discs was for a different car i had that had disc brakes all round.
i changed to slotted disc and the pads to a tarox pad for better stopping power as it was a 'performance' car.
i didnt mean the bezza.

as to wider tires, in terms of cornering grip, yes, it really helps, and it helps even more it the tires are low profile tires (bumpy ride).

bezza is a light car thats highly affected by wind created trucks/busses or even strong winds blowing on the highway.
not sure struts will help...
so keep in mind and be careful...

i've been driving for 35 years, so...

""as far as i know dont speed can reduce alot of risk.""
absolutely correct...
but let me add (from experience) that being predictable and using signal lights to signal intention is also very good habits.
quite a few times motorcyclist drive beside me and show me a thumbs-up for signalling..
putting the '''lampu hiasan''' to good use...
lol

This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 3 2018, 11:14 PM

Yes.

I have been running my tire pressure at 230kpa front and 210 kpa rear.
I've been averaging 12.9 kmL town drive and 19 kmL on country roads at 60 kmh and hyway at 110 to 120 kmh.
Did this for the past 2k km.

Now I've lowered the front to 210 kpa and 185 kpa rear.
Straight away the comfort level is increased. No surprise there.
I find it so much more relaxing at this level.
Just did 20 km in this mode.
Will see if any adverse effects in the times to come.

This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 5 2018, 07:08 AM

No so..
The tires absorb the bump too..
Acts like another absorber..
Not sure about these ecopia tires, if the walls can take the flexing..
But let's see..

I don't fetch that much, so I try this low pressure..
See how la..

The high tire pressure makes the car very sensitive to any rough surface.
But LOW PRESSURE NOT GOOD FOR SPEEDING!!
Beware.
Sorry all, I shud have mentioned this earlier.
Flexing tire side walls creates less grip.
This is for comfort setting only.

At my old pressure, I oso getting 300 km for full tank.. But I think I tekan more than u.. So milage less..

This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 6 2018, 11:00 AM

thanks!
will keep an eye out on the uneven wear and the discolouration thingy.

the slushy stuff, for me, is what i was aiming for in terms of road conditions being less than ideal..
just have to watch out for blow-outs.

on marketing content...
heh, i have to sell my designs too...
i'll leave my comments out as i might damage my own reputation in the process, lol

yup
about right

Not sure what u mean but I don't seem to have what u have...
Sorry can't be of much help.
Get a service center fella and let him/her check it out..

Leave a wide gap between u and the lorry in front.
About 4 or 5 car length.
That way u can see further in front of lorry to look for opening between on coming cars.
Then when see opening, accelerate even before opening has arrived.
Time ur acceleration with the opening's arrival.
Don't wait for opening to arrive then only accelerate...
By the time opening arrives, u need to be already at top speed of acceleration.
This make u exposed to a minimum.
Manually drop a gear or 2 to accelerate.
Don't worry about gear box when the opposite car is fast approaching.
Worry about approaching car.
Drop to 2nd gear and rev to 5k, 6k rpm if necessary.
Don't worry, the gearbox and engine can and is designed to take it.
That way, when u cut onto opposing Lane, u aledi going at max acceleration.

Inexperienced drivers always want to jam their nose right in of the front vehicle's ass and cannot see further than their own nose..
When they do that, all they can see is the lorry's ass.
And.. The the lorry can't see the car behind cos it's in the lorry's blind spot.
So, stay about 5 car length behind lorry, lorry can see u and know u want to overtake.

When follow car lorry in front too close,
When front car jam brake, get rear ended by car too close behind..
Behind driver is called 'Lan chat' driver. Thinks they are the only one in the world that's in a hurry..
Be smart.

And also use signal light when overtaking and flash ur high beam.

If u find other people over taking u, slow down abit so that others can overtake u faster and safely.

Sometimes u can use left signal to indicate to people behind its safe to overtake.

The name of the game is to arrive safely.

Sorry for rant..
Some people think watching F1 makes them Alonso, or Hamilton or even Senna, or Prost..

This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 11 2018, 04:48 PM

I have increased my tire pressure to 225 front and 200 rear.
My last tank only got me 10.5 kmL on the city cycle.
That's quite low..
But comfy tho..

there is danger in under-inflated tires.
do this at your own risk..
or
dont do this at home...
heh

This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 12 2018, 08:02 PM

I think my driving style is also to blame here..
Abit of a heavy right foot..

Another reason I pump abit higher is that I remember I had a tire blow out before.
Not sure if it was due to low pressure or something else..
Was a long time ago.. About 20 years ago...?
Rear ture blow out on the straight hyway..
So nothing worse than just tire damage..
Lucky I guess..

This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 14 2018, 02:32 AM

I wish they would have offered a premium x "plus" with traction and stability control but not the start stop function..
I would have gone for that..

Anyway its a neither here nor there point now..
Lol

over taking..
watch around the 6 minute mark..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1kPlLuwYoI...channel=KingABS

if u guys have any better examples, pls post and share it..

Nice write up!

I got the bezza cos most of my drives was going to be in the city.
With some a little long distance hyway thrown in.
But mostly city.

for majority hyway driving, the persona will be a better bet I would think.
Hyway driving / cruising favours bigger cc engine.
Especially at higher speeds, climbing hills, over taking.


This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 18 2018, 08:34 PM

Yes..
So true.
I have some clients that have multiple houses in good locations but just drive 1st gen vios or 2nd gen City..

U can see that their clothes are not cheap by the materials but hardly any branding to be seen.

In other words,
They are Not conspicuous consumer..
Very low key.
They are generally 2nd generation rich, meaning that their parents are already rich, or old money.
Very polite, but not soft in demands.
Respectful but not unduly..

My class A clients..
Prompt payment.

This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 19 2018, 12:40 PM

Isn't a higher last number like 10/40 or 10/50 rating better?
The higher number denotes a higher boiling point.
The oil can withstand higher temperature before breaking down in viscosity.

Oooo..
I see..
Thanks much for the clarification.
AM smarter now..
Old dog learnt something new..
Heh


This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 20 2018, 12:20 PM

.

This post has been edited by jtan.pdr: Feb 20 2018, 12:20 PM

imagine the lawyer fees...
heh