A lot of mods out there do fire consistently nowadays, improved chip and whatnot.

If you TC, DNA mods are the way to go if your budget allows it.
If only power, there are a lot of options in the market. Are you looking for a single or dual battery mod?

I think I've been smoking too less to know what are Winston capsules

IMHO, I think the Dicodes Dani Extreme v2+ or Extreme v3 will is better than the provari, as these tube mods are easy to carry, other than dicodes I don't think there are any tube mods which can beat the provari in both performance and appearance.

Kayfun v5 is a flavor tank, anything you put inside would taste kind of different. Use ur 12mg or higher in this tank.

The serpent mini is for Direct to Lung vape, use ur 6mg and below nicotine liquids here.


That’s what works for me

small single battery mods, get the istick pico or the evic vtc mini though the vtc mini is already dated, but it still works quite well for me..
both the istick pico and evic vtc mini has the option to have its firmware upgraded, i've ran a custom firmware namely the arctic fox, and its works way way way better then the stock joyetech firmware.

other than that, there are dna devices running with a single 18650/26650 battery, vt75, vt75 nano, epetite runs on single 18650 battery with dna60, u just need to search the net more..

for clone tanks, try to look around for clone tanks from SJMY and SXK, both are reputable companies that produce 1:1 tanks, QC is top notch though u might just be one of the unlucky person to a receive a lemon...
well, authentic tanks also faced the same issue..

Mate if you're looking for something sleek, Vapedroid C1D2 - DNA75 18650/26650 battery.

Considering you're looking more at pure 18650 mods, by VT75 you mean the Nano. I do agree the styling can be a bit... divisive, though I do think the bigger VT75 is worse at this compared to the Nano.

Additionally, if you're set on a single 18650 ONLY DNA mod,  there's also the VaporShark Switchbox (which can be a PITA to find), the S-Body Macro DNA75 (which unfortunately has a loose magnetic battery cover) and the SMY DNA75 (which looks pretty nice and low key if you don't mind the "horn" on the battery door).

And that's about it for Pure 18650 DNA75 Mods. Which is kinda sad as these small single-cell DNA75 mods are much better IMHO than the huge 18650/26650 combis that OEMs seem to prefer coming up with.

BTW, just FYI, DNA75 kinda sucks for above-subohm (1ohm+) Vaping, coz it is INCAPABLE of delivering the full 75w for higher resistance coils, because it actually doesn't do 9v (not to mention that max resistance is about 1.5ohms).

Funnily enough the smaller DNA60 board is better at this IINM.

Anyway, just to add to your choices, there's actually this new upcoming DNA75C update with a HUGE color screen (which also DOES do 9v) due out soon, alongside the DNA250C update.



Also this, proof that the HCigar design teams have finally lost their minds:



I really hope that's not their end product coz as bad as the OG VT75 design was, THIS is in a league all of its own.

try this, go for heavy nic (12-18 mg), vape and don't smoke (zero for 2 week) and u hate that ciggi smell .....

yah used to be .... now day way too many clone and way too many SMART consumer have future battery, so no more supply (even battery tester seal in box d)
now left few piece for my own usage

get the sirius and update its firmware. If not if u can wait wait for the Lyra which i think is quite awesome.
claptons not really recommended for MTL as it will create too much of heat for and dont have enough airflow to cool the coils in a MTL setup. Get the Cthulhu MTL RTA for more flexibility or Beserker MTL RTA for true MTL restrictiveness. If not merlin mini for ultimate flexibility from dual coil to single coil and full lung hit to true MTL experience.

I bought this 18mg tobacco, but still too strong for me, so i just mix it up ...,
[attachmentid=9564153]

yah hastur MTL...my bad lol
merlin mini is just sweaty not leaky if u wick it right and know the proper filling method. I wouldnt say it will be the best but it is usually preferable to use simple spaced coil for MTL setup.
No i dont have the srius but ive fiddled with it abit. quite simple and direct interface. just watch youtubes review abt it as alot of reviewers are giving a pretty indepth look into the mod.

i get it from my friend, they do a lot premium juice ...... i try pm u his contact.

TBH i never tried the ammit 25....i was put off by tanks that has massive-fuck-off-airflow that feels like u need massive-fuck-off-coils and massive-fuck-off-wattage to get flavors. But that is just not suitable for my style of vaping dont let that put u off if that is your style of vaping.
u can try naked tobacco line if tobacco flavor is ur thing. i especially like the cuban blend flavor which gives a earthy woody note of cuban cigar with a touch of honey upon exhale.

Yes I remember Halo.. I prefer pure tobacco flavour too. Came across the Naked brand Tobacco the other day, they must be resupplying.

I am using Ammit .. quite happy. Easy care and no leak. Changed from Griffin coz I didn't want double coil.

Theres this us brand called Naked. They recently have a tobacco series.

For the moment RLH is my alley...mostly squonking with both a le supersonique on a pulse bf mod & and solo rda in tc on a hotcig rsq nowadays....will take a few pulls of 12mg from my siren gta or nextasis mesh genny everyday tho. sold the merlin mini a few months ago to a friend which i am still abit regretful today lol.

fused clapton for RLH yes MTL no. Definitely wont be an enjoyable MTL experience with such big coil.
fiddling w ur build in the hastur will definitely spell flood disaster for users but the build deck is so user friendly which minimizes the chances for a fuck up.
actually from my POV berserker suffers the same problem as the merlin mini which is no pressure vent when u screw in the topcap which will create positive pressure and forces the juice in the concealed space thru the only exit, which r the juice channels. but since the merlin mini have such a big space below the air intake area compare to just some narrow tunnels in the berserker,the merlin mini will appear like "sweaty" while on the berserker will appear like a leak.

MM has no jfc of any sorts...the gap between the chimney & juice channel holes r too big to function close to any sort of jfc. BTW i never believe closing ur afc will aid in leaking from any rtas...it will never create any air seal of sort unless u plug ur driptip part sekali.

try this trick...
https://www.vaportalk.com/forum/topic/16015...%80%99t-charge/
credits to @KittehDispenser for sharing this info to me and while ive successfully revived some batteries using this trick some dead ones just wouldn't respond to this CPR lol. YMMV.

I have, both the newer Glo and Iqos. Iqos hits quite well and has decent taste (tobacco only ler), but is very stealth vaporwise. Battery wise its pretty shit, and that battery case it come with is pretty necessary if you want it to last the day.

Glo has better battery life (owing to the bigger body anyway), but performance wise its pretty crap compared to the Iqos. It's slightly cheaper though, which helps counter the shittiness.

And while I can probably survive a few days on Iqos if I had to, I would probably still prefer my Vape setup - if not for taste and the adjustability. Convenience wise the Iqos would probably win though, being so simple to use. Getting heatsticks over here might be an issue though, and costwise my ADV setup still works out slightly cheaper for the day-to-day.

But, if the Gomen ever goes full-ban on Vape (touch wood)  and they start selling Iqoses over here, I could probably live with them TBH.

There's also the JT Ploom-watchamacallits, but those are really hard to find, even in JP, unlike the Glo and Iqos (which are everywhere).

Where got lol. Just that probably some of our interests align is all. Plus I biasa-biasa level oni also at everything, just sharing the little that I know.

Not sure. I'm on a whole bunch of 6s rite now (thanks to having to buy a whole complete new set in JP after forgetting to bring mine last year lol), so I haven't actually been looking around for batts.

As for the Ammit 25 vs MerMini vs Crius thing, I can only attest to the MerMini as I'm more of a dual coil guy (and hence the Kylin, Ammit Dual and eventually, my current love the Reload) - and for me, in dual mode, the MerMini is a tad leak-happy IMHO, though not as bad as the Kylin (leak for days) and the Ammit Dual - though TBH the Ammit was only slightly worse than the MerMini.

So yeah, take it as you will. At least the MerMini doesn't have a JFC to get loose and leak unlike the others (it's supposed to have one, but it doesn't actually work as a JFC, more like flow mitigator or something lol).

Now that I have the Reload though (and yeah, it still hasn't let me down yet), I haven't spent much time on the newer stuff so my thoughts might not be entirely relevant, so YMMV.

One of the fellers here used to sell VTC6s on Shopee, though I'm not sure if he still has stocks.

And what about TC on the Skystar? TBH, I only run DNAs these days but normally TC issues aren't THAT much different on most chips anyway, and as long as you're doing SS TC, I MIGHT be able to help, maybe.

why not use 30q? i find performance is 1 grade/step better than VTC6 (there is a reason behind) ...

to be honest 30A constant ? that is nearly impossible ..... most u get is spike for 1 second n it reach 80C d
which version 25R u get (green or Blue) ? i still using a lot blue 25r which is pretty impress (even my bicycle i use 25R)

i don't worry on that, i still have a lot 25R green not breaking it yet

[attachmentid=9583549]
[attachmentid=9583550]

My blue 25R

got a bunch of 30q for my friend and vtc5a for myself from vapekulture @ jaya shopping centre recently since illumn has been on backorder & nkon has been out for awhile, as for authenticity scott hasn't given me a reason to mistrust him so far so I didn't mind paying 40/45myr each for the 30q/vtc5a respectively even though there are others selling cheaper

marquis I'm currently Vaping a dual coil, 40ohm-ish, spaced 316L setup at 460f, 60w preheat (1s) and 50w constant. Mats used are GV 316L wire (28AWG I think, need to check)  + Kendo Gold cotton.

TBH this setup actually really does very well ONLY with my ADV juice (the N100 Lava Flow)... as with my N100 Lime Candy thingy, it burns things up ever so slightly.

That said, I'm really just Vaping this Lime thingy while waiting for my Lava Flow supplies to arrive, so I'm not gonna reset everything, BUT that just goes to show that TC settings (heck, setting in general lah) is EXTREMELY subjective, and highly dependent on what you're Vaping, how you like to Vape it, and what you're Vaping it on.

You can take my setup as a guideline if you want, BUT my setup is pretty TH heavy (coz tekak naga, what to do), so take whatever numbers I put up there and put it down a few notches lest you cough yourself to death with the TH.

In regards to Mods kicking you out of TC, well some tanks have shit electrical connection down to the 510 (and TBH, sometimes the 510 themselves are shit) so what you get is an erratic ohm reading... which is the main thing behind being kicked out of TC. Crappy coils can ALSO do that, so watch out for those too, but yeah most of the time you get kicked out simply because the mod can't consistently measure the ohm increase you're supposed to get while TC-Vaping... or whatever wire you're using isn't responding the way it should (aka, according to its TCR value).

So, if you get kicked out on one tank and can TC okay on another, look at your coils first. If your coils are okay, then it's probably the tank. If the tank TCs fine on another mod, well, then that particular tank probably just hates that particular mod. As unscientific as it may sound, with the crap tolerances that Mods and Tanks are being manufactured, its actually not that unlikely lol.

AND, to be COMPLETELY honest, folks use 316L simply because it's the easiest SS wire to get (and because most Mods have a setting for it). It's actually NOT the best SS wire for TC, due to its crap TCR. 430 SS is actually better for TC... but due to the lack of Nickel it RUSTS like nobody's business (plus its pretty hard to get here too).

316L TC is actually pretty much of a crap shoot if you go too far below 0.5 ohms (0.3-0.4 is still kinda sorta okay though), so you gotta keep in mind not to build (or buy coils that are built) too low.

As for the Reload, yeah mine is a clone. Unfortunately, having to INSTALL a freaking app just to get the ori (when they were still selling them) didn't really sit all that well for me... not that they shipped to Malaysia anyway. So yeah, I got mine from Debubu on Shopee, as I was REALLY in need of a tank back then and FT was gonna be Effing Terlajak shipping wise for sure.

Wasn't even a Kindbright clone IINM, but it was made reasonably well (besides the sharp-ish top) and I got one spare glass so I was pretty happy already.

Fuuuuuh. Apologies for the info dump but yeah, TC Vaping is actually all this lol. Hence why most folks just don't bother. Personally I still think TC is pretty awesome for ADV setups though (in terms of Vape consistency and wick/coil longevity), so I do hope you keep at it.

I'll be around if you have any more issues with TC.

And, folks, do correct me if I'm wrong anywhere. One of the disadvantages of carrying all this info around is that you tend to mix things up lol.

those 25R from ready product, which means u see some nipple on positive n Negative part ..... some ppl don't like it ....

[attachmentid=9583749]

any recommended seller at shopee for vtc5a ar lg hg2?

when i drop by KL (after cny), PM i drop some for u to try out (i still have a lot)

i sold that driptech to forummer here and he did some mod which make that firing much smoother ..... at the moment i only have Goon, druga n pulse rda to play with, wait for few more day, etheon, kira, sentinel should be arrived, than i give u some thought .....

btw don't full fire on SS coil with DS when doing test, it melt ur coil i kena so many, install coil, test fire and melt .... hahahha

1) Yep the Reload is my ADV. As for a dual spaced vs Clapton comparison, IINM, when built with similar wick density (big ID Clapton vs normal spaced coils), only real difference is that the Clapton would probably take a tad more power/time to heat up owing to the higher overall material density needed for such a big ID build... hence it would probably have a "mellower" ramp up to it. If you're using more delicate flavours this "mellow" burn might be a better fit.

As for me, my ADV juice is the extremely robust Lava Flow so that steeper ramp in power delivery works well with the juice (and my need for heavy TH).

Juice consumption wise, the Clap would probably be slightly more economical too, thanks to that gradual ramp.

Unfortunately, Clap SS (especially 316L with its low TCR) can be a tad hard to TC consistently with, due to the complex structure of the coils. I've tried building a few fused 316L Claps myself (DUAL claps summore, which is really overkill in terms if nic delivery trust me lol), and it took me a few builds to get them to work consistently even on my DNA.

2) Burnt hits simply means that your wicks aren't supplying enough juice for the heat that your coils are providing. While the simple way of looking at this is that more wick = more juice, there is such a thing as using TOO much wick and impairing your juice flow. What you need is the "right" amount of wick so that the juice will flow better (without flowing too well that it leaks).

For JFC equipped tanks, figuring this out is normally just playing around with the JFC but for tanks without them (like the Reload and the MerMini), it's all about wick density and airflow. You need the right amount of wick and the right amount of air for proper wicking.

As for TC stopping burnt hits, well, TC DOES "temp control" when you have a dry wick, but it can't protect from burnt hits completely when you have bad juice flow (or an empty tank). It just tames the dry hit (compared to what you will get with a dry wick on a non-TC setup) so that you get less of the devil's pubes in your lungs, that's all.

Also, sometimes it helps to unscrew the top a bit to equalise pressure if you're getting a whole bunch of dry hits and can't be bothered to open up everything to rewick (as this happens quite a lot towards the end of a wick's life span when it just doesn't wick as well as it used to). This lets out some off the built up vaccum inside your tank and helps push juice into your wicks... though if you don't have enough wick density it can quickly lead to a leak if you open it up too long so it's a bit of an acquired skill.

3) As for the Reload vs the MerMini, I'd say get the MerMini first as it comes with both a single and a dual deck, so you can better figure out if you're more a single clap or a dual coil type of Vaper. Also, the Velocity deck on the MerMini is much easier to get used to then the Postless deck on the Reload, and building singles on the Reload is a right PITA TBH (as it comes in only one deck type, and you need to "hack" a single to work with it).

While the MerMini DOES leak when wicked badly, it works rather well once you get the right amount of wick in it so it's also useful to help you build a sense of how much wicking is "enough".

not really, i just like dripping ......  i just wanna try out which suit me best, the rest, i will sell it off ......
Why mech ? i like it simple, whatever go wrong, dirty, oily or anything just throw in to bin and wash it out.
Currently i like it most n will keep for the moment now :
augvape squonk : nice and small in size, pretty direct, cons : sometime firing a bit issue.
Driptech DS ori : i like that build quality and hardly leak.
Fuchai : my only regulator squonk mod.
the rest i plan to sell it off and wait for others (Vapor Storm raptor, RSQ, VT inbox, lunatix).

Are the shops still selling zero nic juices only?