Some clarification regarding to engine oil deterioration :
1) from reduced detergency due to the soot produced from combustion, the pollutants in the air and also the microscopic metalic shavings from the internal components
2) from reduced acidity neutralizers from the acidic residual from combustion (due to sulfur in fuel) and also the internal components (if too much moisture is present in the engine oil due to constant cold starts/short drives)
3) from fuel dilution where unburnt fuel/incomplete combustion from cold starts/prolonged idling, this reduces the lubrication properties
4) from being burnt during combustion as there's a very thin oil film on the cylinder lining during the up and down motion of the pistons
5) from the engine oil molecules shearing/break apart due to too high pressure/temperature

These are the main ones, but only 1, 2 and 3 are of more concern to everyday motorists. So even if the engine is totally off, the there will acidic residues that need to be mopped up by the acidity regulators in the engine oil. That's the reason why there's something call "oil change interval"

Civic type is the industry norm which uses the brakes as a form of torque vectoring.

Mazda's G-Vectoring Control (GVC) takes thing into a new territory by controlling/adjusting the torque through the spark plug timing, not brakes. And unlike what the industry norm, GVC is active the moment the steering angle is changed and the ECU will take into account speed, throttle position and steering angle to calculate the optimum retardation required.

Brake actuated torque vectoring only comes active when slip is detected.

Timing wise, the Skyactiv engine and transmission is already on the 5th year in Japan and international home markets. From what i read around for all these while, there is not much major issues till date. The Honda 1.5T engine is relatively new though, only approaching 2nd year of use.

Not to say that I side Mazda or bash Honda, but if reliability is your concern, the time in market is a good indicator But both are Japanese, so both rather reliable perception wise.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Mar 7 2017, 02:00 PM

Most crucial part of the turbocharger is the bearing, that one gone, the turbo gone.

If you want to keep your turbocharger in good condition :
1) use good quality fully synthetic oil
2) let the car idle a little bit after long driving/hard driving (around 1 minute is good enough)
3) replace the oil feed and return hose every 100k km (at least check if got soot/carbon restricting or blocking the oil flow)

Mazda GVC is not slightly more advance, it is a complete different way of thinking it. No other car manufacturer thought of using spark timing to achieve that. It is so precise to the point that the driver can't perceive it is working. You have to check out the youtube videos about this to have a good visualisation.

Individual wheel torque distribution can be done with a limited slip differential, has been around for a long time. Very complicated to explain and got a number of different engineering method to achieve this, go google about it. I read a few times also can't fully understand, really insane engineering.

Normal driving to work and back no need to that extent, just cruise slowly when you're at your last kilometer to home will do.

Just take note to idle a little longer after long distance driving or high rev driving.

You have to find out yourself by test driving them individually, item 3 and 4 can be a little subjective. Why particular about item 4? Throttle jabbing and braking is stressing the engine, transmissions and brakes unnecessarily.

Please also consider the upcoming new Hyundai Elantra on your list.

For tint, if agent asks money from you, that means he/she taking a cut. Might as well you take a little time and research around to get something better for that price. Or you can be mean enough to squeeze the agent to give you tint for free (albeit lower quality type, but better than none right?)

For body kit, unless die die you want it, suggest that you wait a while after owning the car. If after a year or 2 still itchy want to get, can get larger design selection from the aftermarket.

you can choose what oil you want to use if the SC gave you the option, or they will default pick the one that is the most profitable to them which is the fully synthetic oil package.

All boils down to $$

The 2nd option is of similar cash value to option 1, so no loss to you either way. But better to have cold hard cash now than through savings spread out throughout 2 years right??

Macam terbalik leh

Shouldn't it be short commutes will increase average FC and long commutes decrease average FC?

Wow, i can't even claim that with my close relative's W205 C Class....

Either your radio is too loud or you're driving in a simulator

It is a more advanced form of torque vectoring/ESP.

Normal way if implementation is by brake when slip is detected. GVC on the other hand is active all the time when steering angle is detected. It achieves vectoring by altering the spark ignition timing, thereby adjusting the torque applied to wheels.

It is less abrupt (almost to the point of undetectable). The aim is for smooth driving with minimal steering adjustments. Lookup at youtube for some of the live video demonstrations on the effects of GVC, a little hard to imagine through words.

See my reply few posts before, Honda's version is a form of brake actuated torque vectoring, only comes active when slip/loss of traction is detected.

GVC is a constantly active system to minutely adjust the torque to wheels through changes in engine ignition timing. It is smoother and almost imperceptible by the driver. The main aim is to improve stability throughout the journey.

Need to ask the engineers why they didn't design things to be more tidy. I agree that this model is one of the worse component placement in the market. I wonder how many pipes need to remove if got major repairs.

Take out cover, engine noise more bising leh

If worry dirty, just pop out the plastic cover, give it a hose done, then pop back in lor...give you chance to admire the heart of the car

If SC say do this will void warranty, that one really kanasai !@#$%^&*

Eh, i thought the plastic engine cover no screw one, just attached to stiff rubber mount. Just a hard pull to remove and a firm push to reinstall.

What do they mean by "high pressure test"? Use water gum and shot all around the car?

Anyway, can request them to check the water drainage ducts and also check the air conditioning air intake ducts (around the wiper area) for blockages on your next visit.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: May 18 2017, 04:46 PM

Alamak

Earlier days, people say non continental cars, the doors feel like tin kosong light flimsy.

Now, honda civic engineered to have continental feel, pulak complain pintu berat

gua mana ada stalking

I also contribute to discussion even though i don't own the civic....

Well, i don't know this bro (or sis)....

My close relative have a new C-class and the door closing just feel at odds of itself.

The door itself is already light (as it is made of aluminum), the hinge/joints are also light, so the door closing effort is almost akin to closing a well lubed Myvi/Saga door. But the closing sound has a high pitch click (the best i can describe is like a latched suitcase) and a thump at the same time.

Perception wise, sounds solid kah

0w20 will give you a slightly better fuel economy compared to 0w30. Since both are listed in the service schedule, they are both suitable for the turbo and engine.

If your driving is >80% city, crawling or jam condition, can consider to get xw30 to give more allowance for fuel dilution; although xw20 will still be fine for that can of traffic condition.

Please define what you mean by oil burn.

The front number is for cold viscosity, the back number is viscosity at operating temeprature. For our country, the front number don't really matter much, matter more to cold/winter countries.

The back number matters more, the lower the number, the less viscous it is. By right, when you go for high number, either your climate is damn hot like in the desert or you need stronger oil film strength because you're stressing the engine more (high rev, heavy throttle movements).

How old is your car and do you drive your car harder then average? Some noticeable oil consumption is normal for cars under 10k km, as the piston ring need to "seat" well. And it is normal to notice some oil consumption near the service interval mileage. For normal driving, xw20 is the most economical choice.

Even loaded innova can go up genting, what makes you think the 1.8 can't?