Type A, method 1.
Why the ballast still consuming 6 -8 watts after starter removed and lamp replaced to LED ?
T8 Fluorescent LED Tube Light replacement, Retrofitting LED tube to existing casing
T8 Fluorescent LED Tube Light replacement, Retrofitting LED tube to existing casing
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Jan 20 2017, 11:28 PM
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#1
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5,867 posts Joined: Feb 2006 |
Type A, method 1.
Why the ballast still consuming 6 -8 watts after starter removed and lamp replaced to LED ? |
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Jan 21 2017, 11:55 AM
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#2
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QUOTE(mot88 @ Jan 21 2017, 09:28 AM) If you open the fluorescent casing, 'L' wire goes into directly into magnetic ballast (from your main source/ DB) and out of it then to the pin socket under normal fluorescent wiring. Removing the starter is only breaking up the other loop from left side pin to right side. I actually replaced quite a few T8 LEDs using the existing fixtures. I re-wired to bypass ballast some of them but some times when I lazy to do the re-wire, I just removed the starter without ballast bypass.Function of ballast is limiting the current flow. The current flow after magnetic ballast is more than sufficient for LED. LED could be wired directly to 'L' and 'N'. Think of magnetic ballast in this case as a 'middleman / agent'. Instead of getting your goods from whole seller, one choose to still continue the tradition to get from agent (which more expensive -lah). With or without magnetic ballast the LED still works but consume more electricity. I am sharing the knowledge as the info is scattered everywhere in the forum and the lighting shop is not much help either. The purpose of this thread is to consolidate the info and adding my experience in changing the normal fluorescent to LED tubes For better understanding on the fluorescent light wiring (the foundation), this link with pic is quite good http://www.louyeh.com/how-to-wire-up-a-sim...orescent-light/ I always have this doubt in mind that if I don't bypass the ballast, will the ballast consume electricity? I hear various opinions, some said it will not, coz no starter and no fluorescent lamp, the ballast will not 'function' as it should and it merely acted as a conductor to let the current flow thru. Some said it will consume a tiny bit of wattage and the now you said it will consume 6 - 8 watts. Let's summon sifu Richard and hear what's his opinion about this. |
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Jan 21 2017, 02:34 PM
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#3
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QUOTE(Richard @ Jan 21 2017, 01:51 PM) ahem.. sifu here.. (actually its master sifu since i have technical certificate..) Thank you sir.In a standard fluorescent fitting.. The ballast acts as inductor to limit the current and increases voltage (by the fluctuating magnetic field in its coil) so as to make the tube fluoresce via the starter (bimetallic contact).. hmm.. anyway because it is an alternating current (sinusoidal voltage) there is a power factor where some heating happens within the inductor (ballast) which is the reason for the reactive power loss.. Hell .. I can't explain technical things in a simple way but if you run an ac current through a coil there will be some heating .. This heat translates as a loss in efficiency of the load.. Edit * Of course in an LED where the current is in the mA it will be negligible thus you can leave it in circuit and it won't matter.. technically there will be some power loss but not in the magnitude of 6-8 Watts (milliwatts in direct proportional to the current) .. Will the ballast power loss factor is much lesser in a LED fitting compare to fluorescent fitting? |
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May 20 2017, 11:15 AM
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Just sharing.
Mr DIY 4' LED T8 retrofitted to existing T12 fixture with ballast bypassed. Power on 10 hours everyday for about a year now. Still working good. Power saving : T12 fluorescent : 40w / 0.88 ballast factor = 45.45w T8 LED : 18w Honestly, I can't tell from my naked eyes if there is any brightness/lumen difference between the T12 and T8 |
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