i think might just go and ask the service adviser during 10000km service
dun think will skip their service as i dun wanna take the risk for warranty purpose.
service center just nearby my workplace. shud be stick to them for few years first then decide later.

any Jazzier changes their HU? Which 3rd party HU that you are changing it to?

i would love to know also. And changing the HU will affect which warranty?

changing to Sony bluetooth HU....see from my past post on this...

Does it impact the clocks near speedometer? Are you able to change the clock normally?

Just got my Tinted Silver today (Y)

Which SC provide better service in Klang Valley?

Can adjust the clock...no problem at all....

Cool welcome to the club

Just got to know about it. Thanks. How much do you spend to upgrade it? Do u need to change the double din case or reuse back the original one?

the Sony HU fit the original casing....no cutting needed....can't remember the amount....the car bought for my college son ...he is the one who installed it...

Thanks for the info

Hi,

Anyone install the autofold mirror on their e spec?

Drive for 4 days~ start to notice kruk kruk sound at the behind.. not sure it is the fiber board sound or something I couldn't visually inspect.. is that normal for CKD standard?

I was planning on buying the Honda Jazz, but was reluctant after reading some issue with the CVT. Sharing this long long post here if any Jazz owners have issues with their CVTs. Apparently changing the CVT fluid once, or even twice in a row should help. Or perhaps even do a stall test if necessary.


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https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-generat...ent-points.html

From my research ALL CVTs have a particulate filtration issue and Honda does not address this issue at all.

I have seen this in many of postings of CVT oil analysis particulate counts that I can find on the net.

Also, changing a CVT at the 30,000 to 60,000 mile interval the factory wants when I have seen oil analysis with a high particulate count at 13,000 makes no sense.

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https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-generat...rd-noise-2.html

SO! the noise and vibration came back. But instead of taking it to a dealership i decided to go with my gut intuition and do a full 8 (technically 6 quart, but you cant buy half quarts) quart drain and fill of the transmission with brand new HCF-2 from the dealership. Ran me 108 dollars in total. I did all the labor. After about 3 hours. I was done.

I'm currently at 4200 miles on my 2016 EX GK5. Piece of advice to all new car owners. IMMEDIATELY REPLACE TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE FLUID. Both of mine came out brown with very small metallic debris in them. I dont know what they put in their new cars when they roll off the manufacturing lot, but it must be replaced ASAP. Unless there is some sort of specialty instructions, REPLACE ASAP.

So far after an 8 quart flush my car feels 90% better. the vibration is almost entirely eliminated, and the low hum/howl during engagement in Park, Reverse, and Drive is nearly nonexistent. I was told and experienced myself that the best way to flush a transmission is to do it at least 3 - 4 times. I plan on doing another flush at 10k miles when i change the engine oil as well..

Please! if you have NEVER replaced your transmission fluid do it SOONER than LATER, you will not regret it!

If no one has done a write up on how to do a CVT fluid flush for a 2016 Honda Fit, ill do a write up later. But so far its worth the 108 dollars, the results and peace of mind.

I do plan on following up with a complaint to honda about what I've experienced. I know it wont go far being I dont have the oil anymore for proof. I just want them to know this was a piss poor quality control job of the fluids in my car and hopefully get some sort of reimbursement for the 180 dollars i had to spend extra outside of the warranty because dealership were either being willfully negligent or just oblivious.


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https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-fit-73/...-fluid-2846665/

Not necessarily.

Honda as of late has been plagued by automatic transmission failures in many models. Since many Honda trannies do not have a replaceable ATF filter, and since Honda does not recommend power-flushing their automatic transmissions, changing the fluid on a more frequent basis than the specified interval is an inexpensive way to keep contaminants from building up and to keep the fluid fresh. Keep in mind that only about half of the total fluid capacity can be drained out of the case when changing the trans fluid; the rest remains inside the torque converter.

Heat kills transmission fluid, and heavy duty such as stop-and-go city driving and/or hauling a lot of people around will create a lot of heat in the trans. Independent testing has shown that ATF-Z1 does break down much more quickly than the specified service intervals would have you believe, and I've seen a number of transmissions develop problems even before the first service interval is due at 60,000.

Often you should just go by the book, but in some cases Honda gets it wrong. For example, Honda's original recommended service interval for the Dual Pump fluid in '97+ RealTime 4WD rear differentials was found to be far too long, as the fluid would often break down so quickly that the diff would start making growling noises while turning as early as 30,000 miles. Honda eventually revised the service interval for Dual Pump fluid to 30,000 miles, and then later to 12,000-15,000 miles for the first service on '07+ CR-Vs. Another example is valve adjustments - Honda specified a valve adjustment interval of 105,000 miles for B20 engines so that they could advertise "no tune-ups required until 105,000 miles." Many of these engines sustained damage to the cylinder heads due to tightening valve clearances before even reaching 105,000 miles.

For the record, I change the ATF in my personal vehicle every 20,000 miles. Depending on model, I recommend trans fluid change intervals anywhere from 15,000 (for '97-05 J-series, '97-01 H-series, '98-02 F-series, '01-03 D-series) to 30,000 miles ('88-00 and '04-05 D-series, '90-97 F-series, '92-96 H-series, all B-, C-, G-, K-, L-, and R-series). For CVTs, I recommend changing the CVT fluid every 15,000 miles for '96-00 Civic HX and every 30,000 miles for all other CVTs.

$25 worth of fluid once every 18-24 months is a lot cheaper than a $3000+ remanufactured transmission.


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http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=6465.0

Get some CVT-F x2. Case holds 5.4l and only 3.2l comes out on a drain, so change is done twice to flush.


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http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=8817.0


It's not difficult with the right facilities, there is a drain plug and a refill point with dipstick.
You should only use the Honda fluid called I believe, CVT-F, and drain, refill, run the car selecting all the functions and then drain and refill again. You will need twice the amount of oil specified for the capacity of the gearbox.
Do a search on here, there is loads of info on CVT oil changing.

Vic.

*PS - This is probably to flush out the remaining cvt fluid left in the torque converter.

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http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=94.75

*Note that this is for older CVT with start clutch, and not for current Jazz which uses a torque converter.



Just carried out a CVT flush on my (new to me) 2005 Jazz with 91k on the clock, problem has completely dissappeared! ;D

I can't be sure how long the problem has been going on for as I only bought the car 2 weeks ago but before the flush, once the car had warmed up the judder was very noticeable (whole car vibrated as if going over a gravely road) if anything other than veerrry light throttle was applied from standstill.

Honda warranty expired last year, they wanted to charge me £150 for the procedure! I instead bought 2 (4L) bottles of CVT-F fluid from Honda (£40 each) and proceeded to do it myself. For the benefit of any other fellow DIYers here's what I did:

1. Jack the car up on left side and drain old transmission fluid by undoing the bolt with the square indent as shown here:
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTM...3001KBAT00.HTML

2. Clean any debris off of the magnetic bolt and remove jack so the car is back on level ground to allow more dirty oil to pour out. I even jacked the car up on the opposite side so even more oil could drain out!

3. Refit drain bolt. (advisable to use a new washer but I used the old one)

4. Fill with new fluid via the transmission dipstick hole using a short pipe and funnel of some sort and check underneath the car for any leaks. I poured about 2.5 litres after which stopped and checked the fluid level on the dipstick, adding more as neccessary until it reached somewhere between the two 'cold' dots.

5. Start the car and engage all gears one by one. check fluid level again.

6. Find a quiet street and drive up to about 25 mph and coast down to zero – 6 times. as recomended here:
http://www.thaipulse.com/blog/thailand-pla...ssion-problems/

At this point my judder was still there, albeit not nearly as bad as before so I decided there was nothing to lose by carrying out a 'stall test' which apparently clears the dirt on the start clutch as described here:
http://nzhondas.com/tech-help/145635-cvt-s...stall-test.html

7. Stall test: fully depress brake predal and slowly raise the revs till the stall point, should be 2500rpm (very disconcerting noises may be heard!) and drop again, idle for about 2 minutes then do the same in reverse. I repeated this 3 times in D and R. Do not do this for anymore than 10 seconds each time!
Idled a bit more and drove back to my garage, surprisingly the judder was almost gone!

8. Drain CVT fluid again and replace with second bottle of CVT-F. I carried out the 25mph coast to stop procedure again at this point.


I've driven the car on traffic jammed London streets as well as on the motorway since the flush, and can safely say the judder has totally and utterly gone - here's hoping it lasts and never comes back!

Whether the 25mph to coast to a stop procedure had any effect I don't know, but the stall test seriously had an effect almost immediately, although it should be noted that this should not be done with dirty fluid in the transmission as it will just jam more gunk into the start clutch.

Hope this is helpful to somebody out there

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mine ..*touch wood* no sound but the front door rubber already came loose. Time to disturb the SC

konchy - Thanks for the article. Best know method for CVT is to do flushing at 25k km and next 50k km. Later just continue own the original schedule. I bet it would last. My Jazz Hybrid is already 100k km and no known issue on CVT (*touch wood*)

Also older CVT (before Jazz GE) or Honda City iDSI (with CVT) has that known problem with CVT. I believe Honda has fixed the issue.

i usually drive thru highway back to my hometown about 2-3times/months, noticed the distance the fuel needle moved from its full tank position depend on my "human-cruise" speed , less than 100kmh seem to use less fuel than 100kmh and above.

Any GE owners noticed the highest cruising speed without exponential increase in FC is below 100kmh? or its just my placebo?

p/s: no actual numbers, kinda unscientific ya...

not sure about Honda CVT as my GK is recording only abt 20,000 km mileage for the 18 month of ownership.....however my 5 years old Nissan Teana with X-Tronic CVT already recorded more than 120,000 km....changing of CVT oil every 60,000 km....so far so good with no problem at all....

Anyone stick any screen protector/tempered glass on the HU and auto climate control panel?