ok noted thanks.

guys im back with question, i just finish sanding n building the skirt part last night and the ball joints there r really loose. one touch and it might fall off, wats the best way to tighten it? i read some ppl use mr cement some use super glue but from my understanding, mr cement melt the plastic to hold it together wit another parts so super glue is a better choice if i wan to tighten it n still able to move it around?

This post has been edited by chinti: Aug 23 2017, 09:39 AM

You apply the cement or glue, let it dry before you attach it to the peg.

oh ok, thanks. i read so much comments on people saying RG rx-78-2 is flimsy but so far i built the legs and skirt, they seems fine to me

Maybe Bandai has improved the parts in later batches.

could be, time to go buy more sand papers
is gundam cheap in HK? im going there next months and i read many ppl saying its cheap

This post has been edited by chinti: Aug 23 2017, 10:47 AM

fucuk... i might going HK also.. but year end

What happens to P-Bandai Singapore?

Litt Tak warehouse sale from 25th-27th August...

Schwalbe for RM60 is a good bargain, I just wished it to be Lupus Rex though

1/144 Transient Gundam Glacier for rm40 only grab it fast.

Not much different but some can be good deal
I bought metal composite Phenex for 999hkd around 500-600 here while most starting as much as 700-900 in our market

Save rm 100-200 consider very good already

if you read cement, i think i know who wrote that. he is a famous gundam collector who never builds his gundams, but can provide alot of professional advise on how to build gundams.

if you follow his guidelines it will ensure chaos & battle damage effects on your gundam. some say it will look like someone used a hammer to hit it.

what you want is something that doesn't corrode the plastic but hardens and leaves a thin layer to increase the grip.

Super Glue is hard to control and when dry it becomes really hard. So if you only have access to Super Glue, do it moderately.

I would recommend something like Pledge Future Floor Care. it is acrylic and leaves thin layer, does corrode and can be easily removed with alcohol wipes. and if you need a gloss finish esp small parts & transparent canopies, they are great compared to spraying.

rm60+- at Ace Hardware.

also wait for it to fully dry before you put the joints back. if it's ball joint and already connected, you have to keep moving the part until it dries. in this case super glue pose a high risk of permanently fixing the joints.

another alternate low cost method would be put a small piece of tissue paper between the joints...

This post has been edited by advocado: Aug 23 2017, 10:11 PM

you only apply cement when you want to attach 2 bare plastic parts permanently.

please don't give wrong info as people have damaged their model kits this way because someone on the internet told them it works.

well another purpose for using cement is if you want to damage the part for some reason, like melting damage effects.

did you paint the joints? if you did, maybe it added thickness to the joints so they are more sturdy.

Ok, real life Meijin Kawaguchi 4.

not cheap. even cheap, only abit, sometimes, more exp after conversion.

want real cheap, have to go Japan. buy 2nd hand unbuilt kits.

model kit not cheap. but toys are cheaper. can even find some legendary toys not many people actually get a chance to see in actual. God status vintage toys. God price too.

people give you correction you want to be sarcastic.

hai...

Like I said, OK.

Looks like I have been doing the wrong thing for the past 15 years although the cement-reinforced joints turned absolutely the way I wanted them to.

Cement =/ corrosive acid.

But then again you're the Master.