displayed product image


inner frame

Well... Cough*alternative*cough

This looks much more amazing than PG 00R.

*while building PG Unicon*

OMG that's suffering, I never get to finish this stuff, this will be my last gunpla!

*a moment later*

Oh look, PG Exia, may I pre-order it?

ok. My bad 

I did some research on the price for Seed Model, all these I got it from yodobashi online. Not sure whether it is accurate or not. Total after 8% Tax deduction is around RM1992.

Aegis        3430
Blitz        2750
Duel        3850
Buster 2916
Aile Strike 3850
Sword/Launcher Strike 3520
Freedom 4130
Justice 4250
Providence 4490
Unicorn 15330
Strike Freedom 5690
I Justice 4010

The whole sentence could be summed [The G-Self is difficult to be made as a single release due to the various pack and each pack is sizeably large with parts difference (arms, legs, colours) hence the other packs will be released through P-Bandai]..

But yeah, you know bandai... any chances for P-Bandai and they will be like 

it really depends on which type(or brand) of decals you are using, i have used decals from Bandai, China 3rd party, Daling and even diy decals.

all of them are different in a way that China 3rd party is the thickest and require more wait time for mark softer to kick in and soften the decals, as for Bandai and Daling tends to be thinner and senang koyak (Bandai is the worst, even cutton bud rub a bit harder also koyak). Lastly diy will depend on how much clear coats were applied after printer print out.

from my experience, merely dip water, transfer decals with a bit excess water on it (to avoid too dry), cutton bud press a bit to hold. then lastly apply mark softer to further soften the decals (for me i waited awhile for around a few seconds) and give it a final cutton bud press.

for the last resort clear coat application also will further secure your decals and another few more coats you can even loose the decal edge marks.

Bandai water decal is absolutely the worst in quality.

how long you dip the decals in water? if too long, the decal loses it's adhesiveness.

when you use setter, if the decal is too wet the water will wash away the setter, or when you adjust too much the setter becomes ineffective.

and when you use the softener, you cannot apply on the whole decal 1 shot, have to start from 1 edge dry up then the other, and finally apply sparingly on the middle. use too much or 1 shot you risk decal coming off.

regarding doing multiple decal, if the decal is too close to each other that the water may sip into decals applied, better spray a top coat to seal off the applied decals 1st. if not have to make sure the water doesn't touch applied decals.

usually we apply decal part by part before fully assembly, when you work on 1 side just make sure you don't scratch the other. you don't need airbrush for top coat just to seal the decals, any cheap DIY clear coat will do the job. just 1-2 burst will seal the decal and dry quite fast. once you finish the decal you can spray thicker clear coat to even out the edges.

well, i don't build Gundams so this is what i read from internet. all the best.

if water slides are giving you problem, can always use the traditional stickers.

water decals dry almost within 5 minutes after using cotton. the longer you wait, the less sticky the decals are because when they are still slightly wet the mist helps them stick.

after you done 1 side just top coat it. if not the other side bound to get rubbed.

from my experiences, water decals doesnt go well if your kit is unpainted, especially straight oob and assembled the kit without washing it add the risk of decals doesnt stick. oob runners tends to have slight residue of oil (although i find bandai kits were the least) and smooth plastic surface also another reason water decals doesnt stick.

now all my kits were painted before decals process but i got that issue when i commission my clients kit with portion that skip paintings.

my rule of thumb is:

1)dip water decals with time just enough the decals able to slide out, bandai (when i try gouf custom decals) tends to take longer to separate.

2)when slide to the target area, cotton bud press slightly on the middle of decal (to ensure decals hold in place), then roll press from side to apply even pressure in order to remove excess water underneath.

3)Finally slightly apply mark softer just enough solution to cover the decal and wait a few seconds, repeat the cotton bud press and roll process.

this way has worked like a charm for all my kits even without coating, even after leaving it months or years, decals still hold. (reason i dont coat it is chrome painted kits tends to loose its shine after clear coat...)

[attachmentid=9202776]

what a waste to use a rm40 can just to seal the decals...

or maybe too rich haha.

still a waste when a rm8 Mr.DIY clear coat can do the same. it's only the top coat that need quality coats, but then again, canned top coats are my least preference especially Flat & Semi Gloss. risk of ruining the whole thing just too high.

anyway i don't find the Super Clear that glossy. still need alot of polishing compound to make them shine.

Hello guys?

How much is the price for Hi Def Wing Zero Custom kit? I assume it will be RM700

Thnxx guys.

I couldn't believe saved my money for this kit instead of Miku Expo

Hahaha that's the dilemma. Dunno which one to buy.

I like to build but I am afraid don't have time to build. I was thinking of getting the metal composite instead but then my gunplay builder innersoul gonna be very sad.