Previously there were two tiers of RG price.

'Basic' RG kit @ 2500¥ e.g. RX78-2, Zaku, MK2, GP01, Exia, etc.
'Lots of plastic' RG kit @ 3000¥ e.g. 00R, Gold Frame, SF, Zeta. etc

Then came the big-sized with lots of freaking plastic RG Sinanju at 3800¥

Gundam.my probably assumed the Unicorn to be at the same price with Sinanju, but no official announcement has been made yet.

nice.. looking for a used assembled FA Gundam thunder bolt for display with weapons additional parts

Directly apply metal spray then after dry spray gloss coat, although the better way would be spray primer > spray metal paint > gloss coat. Make sure don't over spray until thick layer paint for inner frame.

Is Mgs2u still available? Pmed them on Facebook and their page seems like not updated in quite awhile.

What you looking for? I also noticed recently it is getting more difficult on getting some hobby supplies . Most order from China tabao now...

Trying to order beginner stuff since they are selling cheaper and have more variety than the ones i have found online.

Ermm, actually I am asking could I

metal spray > marker touch up > gloss coat

OR

metal spray > gloss coat > marker touch up > gloss coat

Oh I see, for this you need to check on paint type if it is lacquer, acrylic or enamel. Lacquer paint will dissolve same type and both acrylic or enamel with sequence of lacquer > enamel > acrylic. In your case maybe you could do,

metal spray (lacquer) > marker touch up (enamel) > gloss coat (acrylic or enamel)

With this when touching out detail with enamel paint the lacquer paint won't dissolve and plus point is you also able to wipe off the enamel paint using enamel thinner without screw up the base lacquer paint.

Hi,

I’ve build a few gunpla models, did some basic detailing. I want to try painting them and I have a few questions regarding it.

1. I’ll be in the hobby for a long time Is it better to invest in an airbrush set or is hand painting good?

2. Supposed the best way is to invest in airbrush set, what is the minimum amount I should spend for an airbrush set [along with the necessary accessories]?

3. Can I run/use airbrush for long period of time? If not, what can I do to increase the working time?

4. Are Tamiya Paints the best options for beginners? What other paints brands I can go for? Acrylics are safer, correct?

5. Do I need to prime all my models? I read that just washing the parts with soapy water and drying them would be enough. How true is this?

6. Are these steps correct?
Primer/Wash with soap water -> Paint -> Top Coat [Glossy] -> Panel Lining + Decals -> Top Coat [Flat]

7. I've seen video/read articles saying that you can use 91% Isopropyl alcohol to thin Tamiya Acrylic paint as they as similar to then thinner sold by Tamiya. Is this true?

As to practice, I might get a few SD or FG kits and try on them. And I’m just curious, what is the typical pricing for Tamiya paints?

Thanks in advance.

This post has been edited by lol4291: May 9 2017, 08:05 PM

1. Hand painting is quite rewarding but also very slow. It is hard to get even surfaces like the airbrush but overall you can get OK finishes with practice. No matter what, if you are in for the long term, I think hand painting is a must, at least for painting details and weathering etc.

Airbrushing is very good investment IMO. Paint is a lot cheaper compared to Spray but almost the same as hand brushing since they use the same types. But the upkeep is a little high in terms of cost and effort, cause you need to buy washing solution and others. Airbrushing is recommended if you really want to paint, and love doing it. Personally, I have AB but I actually don't enjoy the process, so a bit wasted but I still feel like the investment was worth it.

2. This 1 I can't answer, don't keep up w brands and prices. But I do recommend getting the cheaper, electronic AB without compressor. I saw a lot of posts using them and they say it is easier to use. Also should get proper safety gear like respiratory mask and painting booth.

3. The main problem with using AB for long periods is the compressor overheating in my personal exp. Just buy better compressor? But even with my cheap compressor, before it overheats I usually finish my session. Cause there is a lot of waiting for paints to dry, and in between that you can clean the AB or prep some pieces. No need to rush through 3 colors in 1 session IMO.

4. Acrylics are safer from what I hear, while lacquer I hear is bad even with masks. Wear proper safety gear. As for brands, I am only familiar with lacquers, in which I like Gaia>Modo>Mr Hobby. I don't think any brands are "better for beginners". Just the chem components might be different, so you have to find what you like.

5. I still recommend priming. Washing with soapy water is to get rid of the residue on the kits, which has caused problems with paint sticking yes, but still need a good surface for paint to stick to. Alternative for priming is to sand your pieces so the surface is rough, which helps paint stick.

6. Yes, clean before priming. Personally I don't top coat before decals because I haven't had silvering issue, but some people have so you can experiment 1st.

7. Not very sure either, cause I did try to use the "thinner" from local hardware shops. Those cheap 1s like... Cap Kuda I think. The result is not very good. But also I tried at a time when I was a beginner.

8. If not mistaken, Tamiya paints should go for 10-12 for a standard short bottle. Some shops would sell them at 1-4 ringgit higher than that which is to be expected. Honestly like some said, it is harder and harder to get a good supplier for paints and supplies. For now I use Jshobby and Becky Customizer but both don't have huge variety of stock.


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Hope this helps. I'm not pro but just casual builder, so maybe someone here can help better.

Oh, thanks a lot. Now you have clear my mind. I dont have enamel thinner but I have gundam marker eraser GM300. Does that works as well? I cant find online what type of thinner it used. Will it wipe off the base paint too?

GM300 is lacquer so yup it will wipe off the base paint.

Lucky didnt buy Bandai ver yet
This one is way cheaper. Not into Batteroid & Gerwalk mode

but how is the build and separation?

It is made by Hasegawa so the details are nice but it is not snap-fit and need to paint like typical 1/72 planes made by them.
Most people build this kits said usually Hasegawa have more small part counts than Bandai.

display image


ZZ Ver. Ka Prototype image



This post has been edited by D-y: May 11 2017, 09:34 AM

Other new announcement

>RG Unicorn
>Transformable
>Most expensive RG up to date, even more than RG Sinanju

I'll freaking buy it.

Really interested with how the parts holding on with RG unicorn given it is also transformable. I see there are some 2 tone RG style color separation but it is no really much visible judging from picture which is also a nice touch.

it cost the same as RG Sinanju, 4104 yen or 3800 yen without taxes.