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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V39

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chinti
post Aug 23 2017, 10:27 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Aug 23 2017, 10:18 PM)
did you paint the joints? if you did, maybe it added thickness to the joints so they are more sturdy.
*
nop, not enough time to learn painting. i just started gunpla 3 days

how do i get rid of white stress mark completely? i tried sadding d but still a bit there, dun dare to sand too much coz might thin the parts instead sad.gif

This post has been edited by chinti: Aug 23 2017, 10:36 PM
chinti
post Aug 24 2017, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Aug 24 2017, 01:19 AM)
Ball joint made from what? If polycaps ball joint you cant fix it except use something like paper.

If ball joint made from PS and ABS plastic, then you need to add more layer on it. Paint the joint part to fix loose problem sometimes work but I suggest to use putty as layer on ball joint. Sand it if too thick.

Do not use hobby cement, it is not add layer on plastic but instead melting it. I use putty on ball neck joint for my HG Unicorn before. It works better than layer of paint.
*
RG is made from abs?

ah shit last night sand too much when trying to remove the nub mark, ended up some details lost and the nub mark still there n wont go away cry.gif
chinti
post Aug 24 2017, 01:57 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Aug 24 2017, 12:48 PM)
Different situation. Seam line removal is bond the plastic together by melting it.
Doesnt work well for tightening joint which we try to add another extra layer on it.

Heck the normal super glue work best than hobby cement.
Use hobby knife to trim it first and then sand the part gently.
*
i did, i dunno y tht particular nub mark cannot b remove...anyway, i bought super glue for the joint d.
chinti
post Aug 25 2017, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Aug 25 2017, 12:18 PM)
you can recarve or deepen the details lost if you know how they look like. with a hobby knife.
*
the 1 lost is the detail tht pop out >< meaning i flatten it, i guess i will just make it as battle damage
chinti
post Aug 30 2017, 09:09 AM

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cant decide on my 2nd gunpla, MG acguy or z'gok or any other gunpla to recommend? prefer something tht looks kinda fat instead of cool looking gundam. my RG RX-78-2 almost done building
chinti
post Aug 30 2017, 09:29 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Aug 25 2017, 11:01 PM)
I really would like to digress from this issue now. I've said multiple times that it can be done but not as first or popular option that would first come to mind.

Clearly there are many variables involved from person to person, but I'm staying in the 'can do' camp and I've explained why it can be done. Simply put, the issue is whether it can, not that it should.

I'm going to ignore any post next that still imply or express that this is the only method recommended and used to fix loose joints.

Oh about the cement, I was comparing it to the Mr.Hobby Cement Deluxe, I find the drying time and viscosity very much the same with Tamiya Extra Thin.
*
i wanna clarify smtg here, i tested both super glue and mr hobby cement deluxe. the cement seems to work better for me in my case of thickening the ball joint. super glue works but somehow when u start cucuk the ball joint, it will slightly peel off.
chinti
post Aug 30 2017, 11:11 AM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Aug 30 2017, 10:52 AM)
If you want chubby looking Gundam, and since you already have RG RX78-2, you will be pleased to build RG MKII. There are two versions, AEUG (white) and Titans (dark blue), the AEUG would look chubbier due to the by brighter color.
Depends on type of glue, if you use viscous type (like UHU), it may take several days for it to truly garden.

Thin glue type like the generic elephant glue would only take a few hours to harden. Cement would take a day to do that.

If you don't want to use permanent solvent method, just put some blu tac on the joint.
*
think will get MG acguy
i use elephant super glue, left it overnight, when push the joint inside, some of it peeled off

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