Your supply is 220-240. Assuming it's 220v
Then your amperes should be 13?

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/V..._Calculator.htm

You have to look at total wattage of your tubes. Take into consideration the power factor

I just calculated. Total power required for the all the lights mentioned should be 206 W.

So you think one circuit can take it?

Anyway, not too sure how to use your calculator. My condo is using 3 phase electricity. So should be 220-240V and 13A; but what kind of power factor should I input.

This post has been edited by Knight_2008: Nov 26 2016, 03:36 AM

Led will have 0.90 pf.
But to be safe u can use 0.7pf

I see. Thanks bro. It said 3,467W. Does that means my whole house can support only 3,467W (i.e. 3 inverter aircond running at the same time), or does that means one circuit can support up to 3,467W.

How should I relate this to the total power consumption of the concealed lighting of ~200W?

Thanks in advance bro.



This post has been edited by Knight_2008: Nov 26 2016, 09:26 AM

Light circuit is not same as plug point circuit, it usually share with multiple light point into one circuit. It all depending how many light connected/shared to one circuit, usually is sufficientm unless you have some big azz halogen.

Older property wiring usually use one circuit for entire link house, about ~2000watt in total, modern house provide 2 or 3 circuits.

Mine is a new condo. Le yuan residence. So if 2-3 circuits, means it is 4600/3?

Not too sure, the simplest way to know is trip the mcb, if one mcb control the entire light of your condo than is only one circuit. I am guessing is very likely one circuit. And check the amp the mcb used.

How many watt each circuit can take depending on the amp of mcb, and wire thickness.

I see. so there is no way i can for sure then. have to do trial and error. install in the led and see if it can work and last. Haha.

Thanks for the info bro

T5 4 feet x 10 set
T5 2 feet x 2 set
T5 1 foot x 2 set

assuming led, 4'=16w, 2' =8w 1'=4w
total = 160+16+8 = 184w

assume lousiest possible quality = pf0.7
assume very low voltage 240-15% = 204v

w=vxaxpf
184 = 204 x a x 0.7
a= 1.29 amps


this is like nothing.. you can add 10 more sets to the circuit before it blows.

and yes.. stop investing in t5 florocent. its obsolete and soon you cannot find the tubes anymore.

T5 is far more efficient than any t5 led you can find in the market and is also efficient when compared lumen /watt, it will here to stay.

t5 florocent tends to dim pretty quickly unless you go for osram/philips tubes. the cheap electronic ballast also wont last long unless you spend big money on it.
now led prices has fallen so much it makes more sense to go led now.
led tend to last longer so no need to climb up to change the tubes, sommore is concealed ceiling.

t8 led 4' can be had for rm8/tube for no name and rm25 for philips
i use mr diy rm30 per tube and runs almost 24 hours for 2 years. the output is consistent throughout.

and yes choose t8 led instead of t5 led. more space for heat dissipation = longer life.

My T5 Osram is not very expensive, 4ft is 20+ set, and replacement is 10+, been using it since 2011, the outdoor T5 only change once time tube since 2011 and is on 12 hours a day non stop. T5 tube is not more than RM 15, can sometime get 10+.

I tried replace outdoor T5 with LED, even when is new, is only giving 1/2 the brightness of the original T5, and after 3 months of usages, is time to go into dustbin.

LED Torchlight is good, and light ficture that use CREE LED will be top notch, wonder how many willing to spend these type of quality.

I can relate to that..

The earlier designed LED lighting didn't last very long because of the design and quality of the electronics..

Go for branded LED's if you're looking for longer lifespan, the quality of the components and design of the drivers have improved significantly.. but whether they're lasting longer than branded fluorescent light still remains to be seen..

Note: fireballs,

you need to use worse case scenario meaning peak voltage = 240V + 6%

LED is a diode so its DC (power factor is a property of AC circuit only)..

back on topic practically the current draw should still be very small,

the main issue here is the quality and durability of the LED and the driver..

My personal analogy of buying led lights is at most ~2x the original price of the light I going to replace. The led i got was about rm60, and is really pathetic in term of brightness. If going to buy so much more expensive, there won't be any real ROI, unless some company can prove their bright led is really so so lasting.

LED lighting tech has improved a lot.. with that the reliability and lumen output will increase, economies of scale > price decrease thus eventually replacing the older conventional lighting..

You are just bleeding for staying at the very edge of technology..

If not mistaken, i am looping about 20 number of conventional T5 in one circuit.

For T5 LED tube 4ft 18w with 8 units in series, is the calculation as following,

18w x 8 = 144w
144/(240*0.6) = 1.2A

This is included the inrush current for LED?

More than enough even if you go and install 14x 36W x double tube of flourescent tubes at WCS, that's only 1008W or ~4A at 230V

With the usual spec of 1.5mmsq cables being laid out at minimum per code, coupled with a modest 6A MCB that's plenty of room left which you won't hit.

T5 don't really last long in terms of the ballast (probably due to heat). T8 LED last longer. Case in point: hardly got carpark tube fail on T8

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 19 2022, 02:17 PM

Many thank bro!!!