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 [V30] Lowyat.Net Mechanical Keyboard Club

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justnits
post Nov 24 2016, 01:16 AM

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f
justnits
post Jul 5 2017, 03:15 PM

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QUOTE(lowyatguy @ Jul 5 2017, 02:47 PM)
Seriously
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uih, long time no see sir submarine laugh.gif
justnits
post Jul 26 2017, 01:29 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Jul 26 2017, 01:26 PM)
np smile.gif

i started out with gaming boards as well. after exploring deeper, finally admitted that things are more convenient with standards lol
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i can see your discovery of non-standard row and standard row comes from corsair k70, after that it's a new discovery of wallet hacking laugh.gif
justnits
post Jul 26 2017, 01:45 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Jul 26 2017, 01:36 PM)
hahaha that is true in my case. i think it's not the worst yet; i am still exploring build quality of each brand-board and switches-for now; the worst is when i go into custom boards. (which i save it for last because that one might be very expensive)
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the overall cost for custom boards might be more expensive than retail keyboards.
but one good thing about custom boards is, you can buy different components at your own affordability and convenience.
i sort of got parts for my custom boards in a span of 3 months, so the overall cost of my custom boards is divided across 3 months, not so sakit compared to paying one lum sum of it.
justnits
post Jul 26 2017, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Jul 26 2017, 02:17 PM)
yes overall costs will be much higher for custom boards. however i think it's much cheaper in the long run. the main reason that i put custom at the last part of my mkb journey is because i don't have patience like you guys. for now i cannot imagine soldering all components on my own.

there is a potential (and partial) solution to this: holtites, for switches and leds, because i think i will play more with switches especially.

now i hope to get a leopold tkl and more varmilo. (besides filco, i like varmilo a lot)
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you put custom as last part of your mkb journey? that might just reset your whole mkb journey to season 2
user posted image

justnits
post Aug 12 2017, 09:29 AM

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QUOTE(likabaws @ Aug 9 2017, 01:06 AM)
Just bought a used cm quickfire rapid i TKL with cherry reds for rm 80, compared to my board with gateron reds, the cherry mx red feels SO MUCH scratchier weiii

Well bought it because I wanna mod it anyway, anyone here has spray painted their board with rubber paint before? Does rubber paint smell after applying?
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wasn't lurking in the forum for a while.

yes, cherry mx red will definitely feels scratchy, that's why before the existence of Gateron switches, every linear switch lovers are hunting high and low for vintage blacks.

i am assuming u want to paint it with plastidip spray?
u wanted a matte or sticky finishing?

the problem with plastidip/rubber finishing, it's not very permanent.
it will peel off much much easily compared to normal spray paint.

Some keyboard modder in GH who experimented with Plastidip

++EDIT++
Just saw the later post about this topic doh.gif

QUOTE(slack3r @ Aug 11 2017, 10:17 PM)
I did used plastidip it was ok just let it dry completely what paint do you plan to use?
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how did yours turns out? the coating still sticks on? how long have you been using your keyboard after you plastidip it?


QUOTE(likabaws @ Aug 12 2017, 02:25 AM)
I have no idea thats why im asking here, planing to go for plastidip too.
You do get the rubbery texture after applying it right? Because the quickfire rapid I has the rubbery texture too which I really like.
Do I need to sand down the rubbery paint of the keyboard completely first or just apply it directly?
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QUOTE(slack3r @ Aug 12 2017, 06:49 AM)
Plastidip should not have rubbery texture after you apply it well at least from the product description. I have not tried it personally.

What I've done before was use regular paint in can. Sanded down the case till bare plastic applied plastic primer then applied the color I want
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yes, sand the old coating off till the bare case like slack3r says.

i personally didn't quite like rubbery matte texture coating, because they attract dust and they can peel off more easily compared to normal spray paint.

This post has been edited by justnits: Aug 12 2017, 09:39 AM
justnits
post Aug 13 2017, 01:44 PM

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QUOTE(likabaws @ Aug 12 2017, 09:07 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Any paint recommendation? Do I need to apply primer or straight paint? And what grit of sandpaper to use? I've never really painted anything before so its really confusing when I am reading through guides on the interwebs. And the paint used on those guides not available locally too  rclxub.gif
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depends on what u want. last time i use krylon matte spray because i don't want glossy finishing, but there's some fatal flaw there, i forgot about the clear protective coating. in matter of weeks, the paint start to chipped off and some yellowing appears on the spot where my hand touches the keyboard a lot.
i got myself a matte clear coating spray, but too lazy to repaint my filco LOL!

i'm not too pro myself in paint mod. but always get a few different grades of sandpaper.
i usually get like 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 grit types.
you might need lower grit (coarser) sand paper, depending on your keyboard's coating.
my experience with spray mod my keyboard doesn't need me to remove the old coating first as my keyboard is at it's bare case colour already.
and the spray i use don't need to use primer. i think it's krylon fusion, which i got them from ace hardware.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44191.0
photoelectric has a nice guide, this is from one of the many sources i read before i started spraying my shine 2 and filco.


QUOTE(nasrulafiq93 @ Aug 13 2017, 12:02 AM)
Anyone knows which type of LED replacement should I buy?

There are tons of different types sold on ebay. Shouldn't I mess with different voltages of LEDs?

Some recommended 2x3x4 rectangular or 3mm flangeless ones.

Thoughts?
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i personally prefer f1.8mm led but the lack of colour to choose from makes it difficult to source unless you are ok with the basic colours. otherwise, 2x3x4 or 3mm flangeless is good enough.

justnits
post Sep 6 2017, 08:44 AM

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QUOTE(horns @ Sep 6 2017, 02:35 AM)
the result of my flico tkl cnc aluminum case and detachable cable mods: the cnc aluminum case is a flawless fit for filco tkl.

about the cnc aluminum case: it's about 1kg, consisting of a top case and a base plate. the color is titanium grey. from the outside it is flawless to me; not a single scratch or inconsistency in color. however, the finish is not perfect from the inside. scratches might be expected. the package comes complete with a detachable mod cable (mini-usb; no usb cable is included, so i just use the one from varmilo va87m), 4x rubber feet, all the screws that you need + extras. (i think the case was meant for certain custom boards, hence those extra screws)

the mod just took me like 15 minutes, including disassembly of pcb from stock case (3x screws), clean the pcb up thoroughly, and putting everything into the new case. (2 screws for securing pcb to the top case; 2 screws for the riser feet; 4 screws for securing the detachable cable module to the base plate; and 8 screws to secure the top case and base plate)

now, the only caveat: after installing everything into the new case, my left ctrl key acted weird lol (it suddenly became a mute media key!) this was because the pcb is touching the base plate. the solution is simple: just put the white packaging foam that came with the case between the pcb and base plate (as a layer of insulator). it's perfect again biggrin.gif
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what is this man, description of your assembly and no pictures?! ranting.gif vmad.gif
justnits
post Sep 29 2017, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(irsyadfy @ Sep 29 2017, 09:51 AM)
minila.

edited : owh shit, minila dont have F rows.
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haha was about to say minila then when i reread his post, he needs the F row tongue.gif
justnits
post Sep 29 2017, 09:59 AM

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munk3y

plum nano 75?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/plum-nano-75-b...anical-keyboard

i think that's the closest i can think of for your requirements, but it's capacitive, macam topre tapi bukan, i'm guessing it's very very similar to novatouch, considering it has mx sliders.
justnits
post Oct 8 2017, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(belfong @ Oct 7 2017, 07:47 PM)
Sifus, anyone know where I can buy this AT to PS/2 adapter?
[attachmentid=9211973]
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best bet is taobao where u can find antique stuffs.
justnits
post Oct 9 2017, 04:22 PM

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QUOTE(belfong @ Oct 8 2017, 03:36 PM)
Thanks! Somehow I manage to find one in eBay for just MYR$17 shipped.
But yeah, didn't think of Taobao, which is brilliant suggestion. TQ.
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QUOTE(horns @ Oct 8 2017, 03:57 PM)
it really depends on the item. sometimes it's more expensive to get it from taobao, especially very rare stuff.
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yeah lah, but usually for this old stuffs, taobao can cari wan, just have to be more hardworking in sourcing them from different places first before making that purchase. thumbup.gif

RM17 seems like a fair price these days
justnits
post Oct 12 2017, 05:17 PM

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QUOTE(Savor_Savvy @ Oct 12 2017, 11:22 AM)
That is why I am asking here. It defeats the purpose if I am to buy it.

I am not in KL where i can or may test the keyboard easily.
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gosh...
i hope you don't mind that some people are very passionate about keyboards. blush.gif

i'm going to assume u know ornata is a memchanical switch from the start and thus wanting to know how does it compares to mechanical.

what sort of mechanical switch are you comparing with?
what are your preference for keyboard switches in general? tactile soft? tactile medium hardness but smooth? hard tactile but smooth? some clicky?
why would you choose membrane over mechanical? budget friendly? other factors?

actually i'm just interested to know why you are curious about Ornata lol!

there's a particular membrane keyboard that i still like until today, it's a Dell keyboard that comes with it's whole desktop LOL!!
i like it because it's quiet, soft and very tactile but smooth. BUT not all the keyboard of the same model feels the same, some a bit cacat and some hard and noisy.

justnits
post Oct 16 2017, 05:15 PM

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QUOTE(ave666 @ Oct 16 2017, 01:29 PM)
Guys. How about logitech g pro keyboard? Any pro and contra? Just bought online without do research first. Just like the rgb lightning on the key
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i like your style man...very true to the core values of lyn!
justnits
post Oct 30 2017, 02:07 PM

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QUOTE(Coconut @ Oct 30 2017, 11:46 AM)
anybody using Filco with Granite keycaps? the spacebar will always bottom out at one side. Previously using with  Ducky or Rosewill keyboard doesn't have this problem.

[attachmentid=9283201]
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try placing the spacebar on flat floor/surface.

common problems for PBT spacebar is that it'll warped and the small difference in the stem's hole alignment will cause this issue.

justnits
post Oct 30 2017, 06:49 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Oct 30 2017, 06:05 PM)
true, especially longer space bars like 7x. not sure how to fix this.

i was lucky that satellite stems at both sides could fit firmly. the problem went away after that.
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hairdryer.
heat up the spacebar with hairdryer, but not too hot, as you don't want to deform the spacebar.
just hot enough to slightly bend it straight.
justnits
post Dec 2 2017, 10:01 AM

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QUOTE(Senpai onegai @ Dec 2 2017, 12:11 AM)
have i been out of the loops.. when did steelseries keyboard get better than ducky?  blink.gif
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no, you are not out of the loop, neither is he saying that steelseries is better than ducky.

he meant that he heard of steelseries brand more than ducky.

not surprising, because when i first started doing research about mkb, i've never heard of ducky brand before and i was like, "wat the heck brand name is this???" laugh.gif

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