1) Branch manager is not bothered. If there are issues, he will actually disappear from the office just to avoid
2) Sales advisors have dealings with a nearby tint shop - agree to a particular type of tint but lower grade installed
3) If they feel the customer doesn't know, prices of add on's are jacked up
4) Cars can arrive with scratches as the car wash they use is a cheapo roadside one
5) Very disorganised dealership

The car will auto lock itself. So if wife inside, just leave the key FOB inside. If ure alone, then let the car lock itself.

Don't forget 1st year depreciation is about 15%. So getting a RM6.5K cash discount is still far from worth it for a 1 yr old car.

Regardless of when u sell, u should always try and maximise your future resale value. Many ppl are taken up by year end discounts without considering the loss in resale value.

No I didn't say I was thinking of selling any car after 2 yrs. I meant regardless of WHEN you want to sell, u must always maximise your future value by ensuring your entry price vs year of manufacture is the best.

The biggest determining factor for resale value is YEAR OF MANUFACTURE. Condition of the car and mileage is always secondary. So your statement that car condition is more important than year of manufacture for cars 5-7 yrs old is incorrect. The car dealers just use these 2 criteria as their bargaining chip with you. It's not a major cost to them to do up a car for a cheap price to make it look good for a potential 2nd hand buyer. And unless your mileage is really over the top, the price will not change.

I bought my Kia Optima K5 in early 2012 and sold in Dec 2015 for RM80K. That's a drop of 45% in value over 4 years which is quite good for a Korean D segment. And mind you selling in Dec 2015 means that the dealer took in based on 2016 price. So in actual fact, I managed to retain 55% value from a 5 yr old Korean D segment price. My car condition was acceptable with the usual scratches on the front bumper and side carriage plus numerous stone chips o the bonnet and side doors (I am a fast driver). But my mileage was very high as the car was used for my weekly outstation (KL-Ipoh-KL) commute plus numerous trips up North and South plus East Coast for holidays.

Yes my wife's Civic is also Llumar (Diamond 6 package) and its full edge to edge too.

What voucher?

This issue has been discussed extensively on many threads and also tested by Paultan. Just stick to RON95. We don't drive high compression engines to need RON97. That's a waste.

Firstly, the Civic is a Low Pressure Turbo or soft turbo unlike most other turbos which are HPT's.

So pumping BHP Infiniti Advanced 2X RON95 should be good enuf. Their fuel generally sits between Euro 3 and Euro 4 while all other RON95 fuels in the market currently are Euro 2. The median average its sulphur content is about 131ppm (Euro 3 is 150ppm while Euro 5 is 50ppm). Some batches of BHP's RON95 fuel was even tested to be only 12ppm which is almost Euro 5 standard (10ppm).

Secondly, a significant number of Civic owners would not be keeping their cars beyond 7 yrs as most Civic buyers are from the mid 20's to early 30's category and this category of owners are likely to change or upgrade after 5-7 yrs.

So all in all, my personal opinion is that looking at the current price of RON97 vs the potential benefits, it makes clear economical sense to stick to RON95.

Speed

This is not an entirely accurate assumption.

The rule of thumb for all vehicle manufacturers is that any 3rd party installations which causes problems with the car or its associated parts will result in that part / damage not being covered by the manufacturers warranty. This is a general clause to protect the vehicle manufacturer but even then it will need to be proven that the 3rd party add on did in fact cause the problem.

Window tints rarely cause any issues unless its too thick / heavy and damages the power window motor in the long run. Branded tints will not cause any such problems.

So for tints, I would say its perfectly alright to have it installed by a 3rd party authorised dealer.

Rims is a totally different thing altogether. Rims are designed based on the specific vehicle's suspension, brake and loading. Its a key structural item which has a direct impact on the performance and stability of the car. That's why we shouldn't simply change / upgrade our rims. Its not there just to make your tyres look good.

I didn't mean a court case to prove anything. Proof in this case is a logical explanation as to how that 3rd party accessory caused the problem. No car manufacturer is going to simply void warranty just to shift blame without reason.

Well i've had quite a bit of experience with warranty claims connected to 3rd party installed parts over the years with Toyota, Kia and now BMW. Hence my earlier statement. The only 'case' which I lost was with BMW when I installed a 3rd party reverse cam which was connected to the car's IDrive system. It didn't actually cause any functional problems since it was plug & play but since it caused a system update to fail, they insisted I remove it and install a original BMW cam.

Honda could be more fussy. No experience yet with them.

But SA useless. Wife doesn't even service her Civic at that dealer.

It's more expensive to maintain in the long run because u have to change your engine oil more often.

Has anybody done anything about the door hinges?

Its really too tight and makes opening and closing of the doors very difficult especially when ure inside the car. I thought it would improve over time but its still the same.

TCP service interval is 8K based on the condition based driving? I thought someone said its not more than 7K?

As for your City, u were using Mineral oil so ure stuck with a 5K service interval. Plus at that time, Honda was very picky insisting on the 5K interval. Most new cars from 2003 were already using Fully Syn oil which gave them 10K service intervals.

Yes so yours is not the norm since your commute is too short and no traffic.

What about the other TCP owners? What is the average lifespan of your engine oil?

My own ride (BMW F10) normally gets me about 7K intervals and my daily commute is about 35mins 1 way in heavy traffic. But I don't mind serving as often as possible as we have a free servicing package for 5 yrs or 100K.

Did u know that travelling at a higher but constant speed actually saves more fuel than travelling in stop start traffic? That's why in city urban FC is always worse than highway unless ure travelling really fast.