Memang have to add some cash but if I can remember from the time I got my car, WOP is Rm300 extra.

Yea, there's a couple of settings to choose from for when your car locks/unlocks. Eg. when shifting out of P, upon ignition etc if I'm not mistaken. But yea, having the mirrors fold when you lock the car would be awesome. That and to have the left door mirror angle downwards when you shift into R. Those would be a godsend. Can't be anything more than a few lines of code. Don't know why Honda omits things like these.

Agreed.

I've noted that the "daun" Econ mode does make the car a little sluggish, but its fine for city driving or when you're ok with progressive acceleration. I guess it does save you some petrol although I don't know if this is mere placebo - haven't really gathered any real life figures. Anyone here done the experiment or knows how much Econ saves you?

This one I can confirm. I usually have two phones and the key in the same pocket. Normally, it doesn't affect the signal from the key much but it gets really slow when the key is sandwiched between both phones or completely behind both phones - if that makes sense. Fumbling around in my pocket usually solves the problem though so I'm not too bothered.

Yup, the car takes slower to accelerate to cruising speed definitely. Econ saves me some petrol by this process: Want to get up to 100KM/H>Press pedal> car accelerates very slowly> Car travels at 80KM/H>F**k it, drive at 80; approaching my exit anyways. Lol.

Pandan leaves FTW. Put a bunch under each of the front seats and maybe some in your boot. Your car con-lan-firm cockroach free. Had the same problem ages ago in a 15 year old Saga. Heard of this and thought it was an old wives' tale. But I was desperate and tried it. Works like a charm. Guess those old wives know what they're talking about la.

Read about the rack being variable as well though I can't say that I've noticed it vary-ing. Hmm, maybe thats a good thing. Lol.

I have this problem too. 🙁

No man. I've just been living with it. But I'm planning to bring this along with a rattle from the driver side dashboard up during my A service. 😂

Same here. Heard a lot of people say its pretty common for Hondas.

This is probably off the topic a tad - I was wondering if you turn off the car without engaging the parking brake, does it come on automatically? The thing is, when I engage it then I turn the car off, the indicator goes off with the car. In other words, there's no way of telling after I've switched off the car. Anyone knows for sure?

Thanks for the info, man!

Gosh, I've probably left the car without the parking brake engaged a few times. I typically drive with Brake Hold enabled but I turn it off right as I pull up to my parking spot at home. Too damn hard to creep the car forwards from a standstill with the accelerator. Otherwise, it would be a good fail safe. Guess I'll just have to remember to engage the Parking brake like my old car, its just so much easier to overlook than the usual mechanical parking brake. Lol.

1. The infamous rattle shows itself again! LOL. I have the same issue; planning to get it looked at during my next service. I've read some of the guys here have got it fixed. Given the inconsistency betweeen different SCs, would anyone mind sharing where they got the issue fixed successfully? Hehe.

2. I don't thing there is a way to adjust the sensitivity and there is no way to turn it off unless you're in "P".

3. Probably the motion sensor in the car getting triggered by your wife. Nothing wrong per se. You could switch it off, there's a button near where you hear the rattling. Or you could keep the car unlocked while you're at the pumps. Of course, the third option would be to have your wife be completely still.

Congrats on the new ride, btw!

Yea, the tyre noise thus creep in but I think it's still within acceptable levels for a C-Segment sedan. The Mazda 3 is a tad worse. About the visors, I don't have any on mine but perhaps you could get those aerodynamically optimized ones. I don't know if the actually work better or not, but they're advertised as such. Lol.

Sadly, nope. It's there for legal (read, annoying) reasons. Lol.

Got any other button combos to turn it into a Type-R? Maybe ↑↑, ↓↓,← →, ← →, Enter? LOL.

But seriously, this is very useful info for more than a few people, myself included! Thanks, bro.

Scroll a couple of pages back. If memory serves, one of the guys here got 7.2K rebate for his/her car with the 7K being courtesy of HM+Dealer and Rm200 from Tookar. So I guess it does work.

This does help. Thank you, sir. I also feel compelled to share that my gf who drives the car (more importantly also puts petrol in the car) has not had this problem. She says that when she closes the lid, she pushes on the bottom right corner, which is coincidentally where the latch for it is in the "locked" position. Apparently it works even when the car's locked. Looking at said latch, the design also appears to allow for the lid to be closed when in the locked position. All that said, I don't do it that way for fear of risking any form of damage. The latch seems flimsy and worse still, seems like one of those tiny things that is a massive pain to fix.

End of the day, yours and "button combo" seem to be a most elegant (?) solutions. I've just been bumbling around in my pocket looking for the fob and unlocking the car to open/close the fuel lid. Only time I ever get the key out, really. Lol.

Hey guys, sorry to go off point but I've just come to find out that the 1.8 and TC versions of our car have different service booklet, the latter probably has a section for the A/B service intervals. I only found this out today (the hard way) cause i was given the wrong one. Lol.

Just thought I'd share.

This post has been edited by ClicksForKicks: Jan 7 2017, 01:11 PM

Sorry to barge in guys; but these clicks are they just persistent throughout the drive? Reason I'm asking is because I hear these clicks from the steering wheel area but they're only when I just start the car. Then they go away. So, I'm wondering if what I have is the same problem as you guys or even a problem at all in the first place.

Sounds about right.

That's exactly what I did. I read a few guys here mention that you can push your Service A to 10k and to it with your 10k service.

There you go, sir. I don't know if the above works. My Service A was due at around 7800km, went in and got it done together with the 10,000km service. So essentially, I did both at 7800km. What I'm unsure of is whether one can delay the Service A and get both done at 10,000km.