Hi, just started cycling about 2 weeks ago. Noob rider. Silent reader too. But experienced light builder.

About the light you all discussing. About those (I love diy light stuff)cree t6 smd(or u guys call it led) is rated 5v 5watt smd, depend on manufacturer, you can overdrive(overpower) it to 6/7watt(usually used for strobing) or some underdrive(underpower) to 4watt to reduce heat.

Their 5watt rate is around 400lm. Measured 10cm away from bare bulb (no reflector or lens).

What you see in the ground luminated from the light is not the measurement of the lumens. Depeending on the reflector/lens build for the t6, it affect how the light is concentrated or spread wide... Spread light always is softer than concentrated (those of you have zoomable Torchlight would understand) so lumens doesn't determine your illumination, reflector and lens plays a major factor too. That why branded like topeak, lynnze and cateye even at lower rated lumens seems brighter is due to the lens/reflector designs

The usb mini light someone posted few page back, the dual t6 is fired around 8watt(4 watt each) at 5v consuming 1.6A... yes, 5V 1.6A for several reasons, pumping 10watt will consume 2A from your power bank running for 15min will kill your powerbank circuit . If your power bank doesn't support 2A(or it's 1A PB) it might instantly turn off or work at lower wattage. I would say the is mini light fires about 700-800 actual lumens.

My personal advise, Get a good long life light that last min 3hrs, low power last 5hrs . Lumens is not really a big deal if you ride on well lit road, the light is for ppl to see you. And avoid dark roads at all times. You don't want to get robbed of your bike.

*edit: corretion on the bold words

This post has been edited by ieR: Jun 14 2017, 05:36 PM

lightning69:
you are correct on needing wide spread light on night mountain trail due to lack of "street lamps" inside jungle/mountains. nice light and batt pack mod, btw, only use reputed and high discharge 18650, me and few friends Blow up several cheap batts (my friends into vaping mods) i think with that 4x t6 cree, it draws a lot of power



all: sadly those mtb spotlight also at the same time not road legal(luckily malaysia dont enforce this) a proper road light MUST HAVE light CUT OFF line. that why all the branded one are expensive because to be legalized in some country like German, France.

for joy riding at night, seriously ride only on well lit area, incase of anything bad happens, people "sees" you. and u get help faster.

I'm not trying to being nasty but quick Google can get you a lot of answer... But here you go for UK

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article...-to-know-48568/

From the above article, it did mentioned eBay deals and China knockoff not compliant with local laws.

USA is less strict as far as I recall. But EU (now UK is not part of EU) is very very very strict. Eg, in German, front blinking light is not allowed (u get fined as endangerment to road user) and rear red light have exception to blinking mode not more then 1cd/lumens (wtf)!
http://bicyclegermany.com/german_bicycle_laws.html

But malaysia no care one laaaaa... Wahahahaha

You should do bulk order hehehe


Question, let say(eg) one can ride with 26t chain ring and 36t chainring (or 44t) with cassette cog that result with same gearing ratio, would riding at smaller or larger chainring is more comfortable?

I ride mostly on road (some light uphill and some hard uphill), plan to upgrade but not sure to get double chainring or single chainring setup. Need advise from experience user.

(Not sure if relevant, I can do 27-30kmh on my 14kg 29x2.1 bicycle)

Where do you find 10-42t? I saw a lot 11-40t

hi, another weird question for you guys, are mtb crank (size/length) diff with roadbike cranks?

oh im sorry, i dont mean the arm, i was asking about the axle/bb are they the same length? coz one fellow told me cant be swap coz rb axle is longer and slimmer... so it got me confused.

This post has been edited by ieR: Jun 26 2017, 02:28 PM

ahh, thanks for the answer!, spindle is the keyword to search in google and i can continue my research... thanks a lot for the lead.

actually im not so sure if im asking in the right thread, apologies if i asked in wrong thread.

hi all sifu again, i been using my 29er mtb on road often lately(mostly) and i was thinking to convert my front suspension fork to a rigid fork. i dont have much experience or knowledge but i was wondering from what i can observ, since suspension fork is so much taller due to the extra 100mm travel, will the rigid fork upset the handling since (i assume) its missing out 100mm travel? or danger like pedal hitting the floor due to much lower front?

Oh that's good to know. Actually I'm trying to order online. My lbs doesn't have much selection and price is a little steep. That's why I lack of exposure on it. Good to know the length is at lock position. I try msg the seller to ask for the length to confirm again. Thanks

I changed to a good wheelset bout 3 month ago. What i experienced is....

It reduce rolling resistant on good bearing. (Faster down hill, watt saving during pedaling) I doubt how much increment in pedal speed as it rely in your leg ability. But definitely could ride further and longer.
Sealed bearing, good ones, become maintenance free!


Weight affect from weight(rim) that directly affect rolling weight (for road) and weight directly affect hill climb.

Hub weight has almost no influences in what so ever.

But very subjective and each individual ppl might misunderstand what ppl trying to convey as many ppl think loud hub is good, which not really correct also. (Mine isnt that loud)