just did the scraping experiment with my 1/100 Force Impulse (yeah, finally i open the box and decided to sit down and do my work)...

i used the mr color primary blue to spray on the blue pieces of my force impulse.... primary blue is lighter, so when you sand the blue sprayed part... u will create the "sort-of-metallic" effect...

oh yeah, black body? thin or fat body?

wow...u sounds so pro... erm, its fat
(go see my last post, i got include a pic of all da markers i use, spot da black body marker?)

me not pro la... me just "daringly" experimenting different skills ma... taking big risk

oh, the black one... oil based ler...

oooo ic ic...haha... me oso kinda 'daringly" changing da sf color...
its my 1st gunpla n i'm doin tis n tat

but u mz tell us wat u found out fr ur xperiment oh

ok, spotted sumthing. u see my markers, there's a gey marker blue body v white cap one, its water-based (no wonder its flow r unstoppable). jz know tis when i read da words under da label n spotted da "water' word. 100% differ fr oil-based marker's words.

This post has been edited by ShinAsakura: Feb 12 2007, 02:28 AM

i found out that mr color spray paint is a little bit lesser than the tamiya spray paint.. although both are 100ml

arghh... having fever now ... gotta rest (dang, im still in the office )

This post has been edited by andyxp: Feb 12 2007, 09:23 AM

My COmpleted MG FREEDOM...took me about 4months to finish it...dun ask y







Sorry for the poor quality of the pics...using my hp camera 2 take.

Will try make different pose to take pictures later when i got back my camera.

Cheers

gundam marker or paint for panel lining?

its better to use those small craft knife rather than using heavy duty blade for shaving.

anyway..anyone here know where got sell tamiya enamel paints and their thinner?
1u underground dont have ti

well, im ok with normal pen knife as i was a display artist last time... pen knife and markers are like our arms and feet.... cant live without them, cant live with them either.. hahaha...

tamiya enamel.... not sure la.... try midvalley toycity?

usually, toycity carry those tamiya enamels.. but finding the right color will be really really tough.. if u just wanna use it for panel lines.. i think testors brand would be good.. miniature hobby in PJ sells them at a lelong price 3.50RM/bottle.. but mostly dark colors..
u can use lighter fluid to thin enamel.. it works great too..
i think 98% alcohol works too (can't remember exactly, cuz i prefer drinking it)

I'm using gundam marker for da panel line.
Some area use the sharp point of the knife to scribe the lines for easier panel lining.

The kit was sprayed with semi-gloss...coz i dun wan gloss which make it too shiny, and not Flat either as it make it too 'old' for the outer armor part. Only use flat for the inner body frame

anyone want a gloss topcoat?

i accidentally bought it (without looking at the bottle) last time...

still in shrink wrap... not used yet... muahaha

where u stay...if nearby my working place or my home then maybe i want to buy form u...think of giving my s gundam the shiny look...heheheeh!

i think i can only met up after CNY lo...

sell at cost price ler.. rm30.... how?

what do you guys use to cut parts off runners? bandai cutter? 3rd party ? i cant seem to find any 3rd party cutter like bandai at all.

There is a gundam shop in prangin mall that wanted to sell me a 3rd party cutter (bigger than bandai) for RM20- RM30 - u think its worth it ?

you're still alive after drinking 98% alcohol? LOL


you can get cheaper ones from any hardware shop

me use old school style...

- normal cutter (with a flat based)
- finger nail cutter
- a set of small filer with various angle...
- sand paper...

yup, mr.color spray can finishes very fast...


y buy for big size? bandai nippers cost RM29.80-RM29.90. Tamiya nippers i guess its around tat price too, but sharper n smaller than bandai's.

well, i tried using hardware shop cutters- not flat and not sharp. giving me damn blisters!

i jus use normal wire cutter and then use a blade to cut off any remains on the parts