yay...vincC454 already giv u all the answer....i also type plamo building in youtube n then dl all the related video.....but i really dunno wat kind of tools they r using for scribe panel line....anyone can help pls or share wit me wat kind of tools can be use for scribe panel line??thx.....

thx guys for ur input..really appreciate them...

i sayang my MG's, thats why kinda unsure on building them without deforming them..

i even deformed my those cheapo NG 1/144 just for the sake of experiment using markers, putty and even sanding them...

for me, AB out of my league as time is not on my side...i mean the time needed to learn to control the AB pen...also, budget wise for now, kinda empty...

i might consider the spray can + hand paint method...

oh, is there any guide for stripping enamel paints?

i found guide on stripping acrylics, but havent found for enamels coz from forums like wired-wolf and plamo-outhere, they use enamels for lining aka washing method..
i found this very handy rather than using markers...

just curious let say after ur kit is done, then say few months u wanna repaint them, is it possible to strip the topcoat and enamel paint?

Enamels, really hard to say lar.. I guess the only way to find out is to try the different types of thinners that u can get from those hardware shops. Since u got a few deformed NG ones, u can probly scrap one of those, and try differnet thinners on different parts and see. U'll need one that can strip the paint, but yet not melt the plastic.

yay...vincC454 already giv u all the answer....i also type plamo building in youtube n then dl all the related video.....but i really dunno wat kind of tools they r using for scribe panel line....anyone can help pls or share wit me wat kind of tools can be use for scribe panel line??thx.....

AB I guess will be the initial investment cost, a bit on the high side, but if u do these models regularly, then its a good investment lar...

Dont ever try any thinner from hardware shop unless u are pretty sure those thinner are weak. I tried various thinner from hardware shop and I ended up turning my kits into goo. My best bet is to use the DOT3 brake oil for automobile. If i am not mistaken, it can strip acrylic, enamel and lacquer paint.

But now i have a problem. D place where i just moved in is very DUsty.. example: after i wipe my black wooden table...after few hours/immediately u can see dust gathering on top already. So my question is.. How can i Avoid these dust from sticking to my just painted model? I don dare to start even washing it as i know if i din painted right away.. d dust will start gather on top again.. grrr.. any idea how to face this?

those master gundams most of the time never use lining markers..they use those enamel paint for the lining, but using this paint you need to make those line deep a bit with something sharp..like a compass sharp end..if you dont have those craft knife..

for those who just started gunpla..i do suggest that you just play around with just marker lining instead of jumping into painting straight..even how good your hand in painting on plain flat paper..painting a gundam is a different story already..you still can screw up ur expensive gundam.

painting a gundam till it looks so nice takes time..you need to practice and practice..then only you can get it right..not expect to have a great painting result on your first time building..

if you have no idea and first time building a gunpla..then forgot those sanding and puttying first..it can make your gundam worst later if in the middle process you dunno what else you wanna do or maybe you screw it already.

remember that sanding and putty means you need to color you gundam already as most of the time they leave stain and sratches.

for pre building your gundam and take it off all apart for painting..its better that you cut half all the male and female joint first..cause some parts, it just impossible to take it off back later on and maybe end up brake it. cut half the joint means you losen it and maybe you need to cement it before the final assembly..and this can skip the puttying process also.

for cutting those plastic from the runner..dont you playar please..hehe
if you can buy a gundam..im sure you can invest a bit more for the cutter..not saying to go ang get those rm80 tamiya cutter..the normal at hardware shop one will do good already.

i cannot think of any actual links or website that show how to build a gunpla from stage 1..i try to search before..and end up buying books about building gunpla last time..and its not cheap also..and somemore not in english

read and look the pictures only are not enough..whatever also you still need to trial and error with you gundams..lol

there is no easy way to learn something..hand on experience is the best..i screw almost 3 MG last time till i got it right..and my first HG last time i even pull the plastic with my bare hands from the runner..lol

try this link for gunpla building from some of the master gundams from japan
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_quer...g&search=Search

and finally..dont rush when building them..take your time and enjoy building it..no one rush you also right..lol

anybody knows if the Hi-Nu Gundam is coming out in HG? The MG is a piece of work, but too pricy for me to even consider

even the japs are selling it at high prices bro?

i wonder what's gonna be so special about gelgoog ver2. even with better internal frame its gonna be covered up with armor anyway. yeah, the gelgoog happens to be my least favourite monoeye suit

Hmm.. the PG Zakus r kinda the same too actually.

TV Color RX78 OYW

this one only change colour on the current oyw rx78-2 isit?
kind of lame le..