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Travel South Korea V6, Seoul & Everything Korean

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SSJBen
post Sep 28 2016, 06:18 PM

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+1 to Wiyo.

Currently in Jeju, as of this post. I get around 15mbps down and up in the city, the east and the South rural areas.

Was at seoul for a day as well and got 30mbps down in the subway. Definitely faster if on a more open space with even better coverage.

Most importantly, coverage has been very good overall. Wiyo uses LG U+ btw, it's one of the big 3 companies in Korea. Not some unknown telco.

Offtopic - those planning to come to Jeju in the next few weeks be prepared to endure daily rain from dusk till night. It's not heavy but it's drizzly enough that it can and will hamper activities.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Sep 28 2016, 06:21 PM
SSJBen
post Sep 28 2016, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(K1d0 @ Sep 28 2016, 10:29 PM)
Hi, I just make an online reservation at AJ Rent A car for Jeju, I notice there is no any deposit or advance payment require, so if I receive email from them it means my car rental is secure? Thank you!
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You pay when you are there. Your reservation is secured until the day you arrive. No show with no prior notice will generally mean that you are black listed from future reservations.
SSJBen
post Oct 3 2016, 11:27 AM

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I suggest to avoid Gyeongju for now because they are undergoing a lot of repair works due to the earthquake a few weeks ago. A lot of places are closed or have no entry for visits. Don't waste time there.

As for ethnic food that isn't commercialized or catered towards foreigners, basically it's available almost everywhere in Seoul. Look for small stalls (usually only 2-4 tables available) and menus with no English. But just be prepared to speak some basic Korean otherwise you end up not knowing what you order or the server gets annoyed (trust me on the latter, VERY common scene here).
SSJBen
post Oct 3 2016, 02:13 PM

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QUOTE(joytest @ Oct 3 2016, 11:36 AM)
Thanks for the tip.
So I guess phrases like "nice grilled pork/beef"  or "recommended dish?"  would be useful?
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Depends which stall you go to. Unlike the big chain restaurants, the small ones usually only sell 1 certain type of food.

So for example if you want kbbq, you have to know if you want pork or you want beef. Some only serve pork and no beef, or some just specializes in beef while pork is more of an after thought.

If you are not sure, you can always just ask "mwoga massitseoyo?". If you can read Korean, it'll be easier as you can just read the menu items and Google it up.

Although places like Itaewon, Insadong, Myeongdong and Hongdae are quite foreigner filled now a days, there are still restaurants that only native Koreans go to. Just follow in, worse come to worse ask politely for help from a native.
SSJBen
post Oct 4 2016, 01:35 AM

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1 week in Seoul is absolutely not enough, even if you have a very concise itinerary. If want to chill and just relax, then don't try and go to places like seoraksan at the peak of fall season (November). The amount of time you have to spend going there because of so many visitors will be crazy to say the least.

Seoul is a much bigger city than what maps would suggest. If it isn't for the amazing subway stations they have, traveling time would be very long indeed.
SSJBen
post Oct 4 2016, 04:42 PM

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QUOTE(yvonnesoo @ Oct 4 2016, 09:58 AM)
true indeed. but different people different preference. some of my friends like to cover as much as possible in one trip. eg 9 days (seoul,busan,jeju)  brows.gif  their reason is they wouldn't going to travel back to korea again  hmm.gif

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Yeah well that's true. But I do feel that for example if people would like to visit the palaces in Seoul, rushing through them is quite a waste. Take the time to look at the structures, take pictures, understand the history, and it all becomes really mesmerizing.

I cannot imagine covering 3 different places in 9 days lol.. the rush is madness. sweat.gif
SSJBen
post Oct 5 2016, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(joytest @ Oct 4 2016, 10:53 PM)
From what I gather, these are the real ethnic stuff (apart from the tteokbokki and fishcake stuff) which I would be trying

1. hoe of varoius fishes, is it better at markets or a 횟집 (hoetjib) ?
2. yukhoe
3. samgyetang
4. jokbal
5. gopchang and its relatives
6. seafood jeon
7. sannakji and related raw seafood (abalone etc)
9. various meat type soups (maeuntang + beef and pork) - seollontang seems good
10. soy sauce crab
11. various galbi
12. various guksu, plus perhaps sujebi
13. various dubu hotpots
14.

A running list of interesting stuff to eat would be good. .... tongue.gif
I can add on to the list.

Does anyone have recommendations for a nice sujebi with strongly flavored broth? I like banmian/meehoonkueh with strongly flavored soups and al-dente dough.
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Good list there.
I think you have most of it covered. The only thing I'd add in regards to galbi is that I suggest you try to get grade A haneul. It's very expensive yes, but at least try it once in a lifetime.
SSJBen
post Oct 5 2016, 07:49 PM

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QUOTE(joytest @ Oct 5 2016, 06:56 PM)
Could you provide the hangul word for "grade A haneul" ?

Is it beef like wagyu?
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Basically just say "chweigo hanu", which means you want the best one. Although haneul (or hanu) does mean grade A beef, there are still variations of it. Also make sure you order the specific part of the cow you want. Ribs, shoulder, sirloin, etc. etc.

You could say it's Korea's equivalent to wagyu, but personally I think they do taste different. Both are awesome of course.
SSJBen
post Oct 5 2016, 08:13 PM

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QUOTE(lucaswjk @ Oct 5 2016, 07:56 PM)
speaking of meat (for non beef eater)

seriously i dont understand why ppl order pork belly
the fat is inch thick...
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Because when BBQ'd properly, the fat really seeps into the meat and make it extremely juicy and succulent.

Try heukdwaeji samgyeopsal once and you won't look back, ever again. I'm talking about the real good black pigs from Hwaeoreum or Surakan restaurant in Jeju, not the commercialized nonsense in black pork street. Yes it is fattening, not even going to deny it. But you can only have the real good ones here (and even that, only a few places). It's worth it once in a very, very long while.

If eat everyday then say hello to heart attack.
SSJBen
post Oct 6 2016, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(joytest @ Oct 5 2016, 08:34 PM)
최고의 한우 ?

I have had a fair bit of wagyu tongue.gif so I should try this then.

Any recommended joints in Seoul or Busan?
Oh wooo ....

http://kimchimari.com/know-your-beef-cut/
Oh yeah man. Nicely grilled pork belly is so yummy.

I did have the grilled black pig in Jeju, pretty good, although I just randomly went into a shop that happened to be open. Got to dig out my old pics and see where it was.
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2 of my favorite places
- 양촌리 (yangchonri)
- 마포숫불갈비 (matpo sutbul galbi)

Yangchonri is in Bogeunsa-ro, Gangnam. Next to GLAD Live hotel, which I usually stay at. It's 24 hours and the nice thing about this restaurant is that they have every part of a cow you can think of.

As for matpo sutbul, it's also in Gangnam, Nonhyun area. You probably have heard or seen this restaurant before on dramas or something, but the hype is real. Freaking meat here is fantastic stuff! Problem is that it is almost always full, so if you really want to go perhaps go for a late lunch or dinner time as they are open 24 hours.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Oct 6 2016, 04:22 PM
SSJBen
post Oct 8 2016, 05:39 PM

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QUOTE(wyen @ Oct 7 2016, 04:01 PM)
Anyone went to jeonju before? Or solo to jeju before? Going to skip busan cos getting too touristy compared April 2014 which air Asia busan was newly launched that time. Planning next year autumn
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To me, solo in Jeju is very nice. You can just go where ever you want on the island and just chill like no tomorrow. It's peaceful if you ask me, especially when you go on non-peak season.

Jeonju is very nice also. It's not very "touristy" yet, but getting more and more popular.
SSJBen
post Oct 8 2016, 10:09 PM

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QUOTE(wyen @ Oct 8 2016, 09:52 PM)
Yeah went there before with friends and rented the car driving around. But if wanna go solo public transport may not really convenient that's why I have concern on tat. Really like jeju
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Go solo, then seriously rent a car man. There's no reason not to rent a car in Jeju IMO, unless one can't drive.
SSJBen
post Oct 9 2016, 02:46 AM

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QUOTE(joytest @ Oct 8 2016, 10:12 PM)
Are you working in Korea?
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Used to. Not anymore.
SSJBen
post Oct 10 2016, 03:54 PM

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QUOTE(lucaswjk @ Oct 10 2016, 03:04 PM)
can u tell me more bout the bathhouse
im thinking to stay 1 or 2 nite there as part of the experience

the locker big enuf for backpack?
security? at open area, if i fall asleep... will someone steal my phone or broke the locker?
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QUOTE(lucaswjk @ Oct 10 2016, 03:46 PM)
seem like korea is quite safe... compared to msia  laugh.gif
---
backpack size... medium... about 30L - 50L

if the backpack is too big for the locker, can the owner keep the backpack behind the counter?
nothing valuable inside... not even camera

wallet n passport will be kept in locker
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I think should be just enough to squeeze into the locker. Honestly if cannot, just put it next to you where you sleep. I've seen people putting their huge-ass luggages next to them while they sleep too.

As long as you don't go to those jjimjilbang frequented by the local gangsters, you should be very well taken care of in terms of safety. Not that the "dodgy" looking ones are not safe, rather you just may not be allowed to enter in the first place.
SSJBen
post Oct 10 2016, 05:08 PM

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Generally safety in Seoul is quite good, nearly comparable to Singapore if you ask me. There are a lot of cameras all over the place, many of which are not easily seen by the public unless they know where to look.

Honestly, you should look out for other foreigners instead of the locals there. Especially the PRC people... they take whatever that is not theirs, as if it belongs to them.
SSJBen
post Oct 13 2016, 01:43 PM

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IME, the moment you speak Korean and you have an accent, they will usually reply you in Mandarin. Happened to me long ago when I first went to Korea to work, especially since I was in Busan. I couldn't understand the dialect in Busan at all, so it was very awkward for me as I studied the language with Seoul dialect.
The only way I got over it was I kept speaking in Korean despite the difference in accent and my still poor vocabulary at that time, eventually people will just be like "oh whatever.. I'll just speak in Korean". That's the only way to realistically improve in the language.

And I do agree that recently, many locals are starting to get a little more "unpolite". The youngster ones are kind of mix 50/50, many of them are like brainwashed to being "westernized" now a days. Then the middle-age ones, they're either very polite or they give zero F about who you are.
The older ones... don't need to say la. It's built into their blood to be as rude as possible because age = superiority in Korea.

But generally, it's really still not that bad. I mean compared to other Asian countries like China for example... lol, Koreans are like angels.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Oct 13 2016, 01:45 PM
SSJBen
post Oct 13 2016, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(yvonnesoo @ Oct 13 2016, 02:12 PM)
haha.. this  i agreed!! so are you base in busan now? so i guess now you can speak very fluent korean  brows.gif  but i feel locals in busan or other small places is better than seoul.
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Naww.. I'm back in Malaysia now. Was working in Busan MBC for 1 and a half years back in 2010-2012. The first 4-5 months was so, so difficult! I could barely understand people and people couldn't understand me. Had to rely on friends from Seoul to actually "translate" the dialect lol! doh.gif

Won't say I'm very fluent la haha. Enough to go wherever and do mostly anything without much trouble. I only had issues when it comes to very official settings, but fortunately I wasn't involved in that most of the time.

Now a days just going back to S.Korea is just for leisure only. Language is no big deal. tongue.gif


QUOTE(joytest @ Oct 13 2016, 03:07 PM)
Having read up a fair bit in preparation for my travel, everyone says Busan is a lot better than Seoul.

I guess it would be like KL vs Kuantan.

Perhaps I could try and target an assignment in Korea hahahaha.....
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If you ask me, Busan is more like JB in size. But people do say Busan is better is because it's somewhat less hectic there. Things are calmer in Busan, more laid back. People are also generally nicer there, you can see less stress in their faces. They're also not so worried about every single little thing about what's "right" and what's "wrong".

Going to Seoul is like going to a significantly better KL. That's how I see it and that's the general feeling. When I ask Koreans who has came to KL and stayed here for years, they always say that KL is like the older generation of Seoul, they're just a few years back on basically everything.
For them it's like traveling in time back to Seoul when they are in KL. I feel the same way when going to Seoul, it's like a KL that should already be as advanced and modernized as Seoul, but sadly isn't for whatever million reasons.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Oct 13 2016, 05:12 PM
SSJBen
post Oct 13 2016, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(yvonnesoo @ Oct 13 2016, 05:24 PM)
not bad. at least experience different culture  smile.gif  got the chance to join mbc somemore. yeah dealing with their language is so difficult when someone like me who doesn't understand chinese. their sequence is almost similar. that's why those who learn chinese, can easily catch up way better. just like japanese language  wink.gif

that's why some koreans, migrate to kl. yeah it would be kind of hard to be as advanced and modenized as seoul. even after 10 years or more we are still way behind haha
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Yeah, totally enjoyed my time in MBC even though it was difficult. Well if there's ONE thing that KL does beat Seoul in is probably the shopping malls. I mean, IMO we have Pavillion, KLCC, Paradigm, the whole Star Hill thing... yeah COEX, D-Cube, Lotte, Times Square... yeah they're there but really not as well done as our super shopping malls.

I asked Seoul-borned Koreans and they feel the same way. Not that they can't shop for anything they ever wanted though of course.


QUOTE(IVL @ Oct 13 2016, 05:44 PM)
Wiyo is fully booked. but I saw the umobile U10 roaming promo~ rm10/day unlimited (high speed capped at 500mb) and plan to open hotspot for my second phone.

And back in malaysia, i've never used more than 500mb in a day.
Anyone used the umobile roaming before? their local partner is SK telekom..
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Never tried u10. But if using SK telecom, the coverage is indeed very good. 500mb should generally be enough, just don't keep loading google maps over and over.


QUOTE(MilesAndMore @ Oct 13 2016, 10:42 PM)
Still with some great savings with all the offers they had two weeks ago that lasted just 3 days (1-3 Oct). Tax refund was good too. Compared to The Face Shop, Nature Republic, Innisfree in Malaysia, it is still a lot cheaper to buy in Korea even with the unfavorable Ringgit to Won exchange rate.
In Korea many see me as Korean. In Japan they see me as Japanese. In Taiwan they see me as fellow Taiwanese. In Malaysia clearly I'm locally born Chinese. East Asian all looks alike to be honest  biggrin.gif
The crowd is what I like most about Myeongdong. And Gangnam... I normally schedule my visit to Gangnam either on Friday or Saturday evening just because of the crowd. I like huge crowd so nobody really notices us  biggrin.gif 
It used to worth every penny for this hotel. But I'll probably reconsider for my next visit.
Agreed. Young ones are very mixed bag. I had met young Korean in their 20s who don't really blink an eye at you, to another young Korean who bowed at me with a sorry face on the plane because he was blocking the aisle arranging his luggage so it will properly fit into the overhead luggage compartment  sweat.gif
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Oh yeah! LOOOVE the way they do tax refund in Seoul now a days. Most places offers instant tax refund now, don't need to line up like a fool in the airport anymore.

Haha had many young ones try to speak konglish to me. Hilarious but at least they try.

SSJBen
post Oct 14 2016, 04:07 PM

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QUOTE(yvonnesoo @ Oct 14 2016, 10:50 AM)
no doubts in term of the size of the malls, malaysia considered quite huge.. yes tax refund now more easier now. even can done by ourselves at the kiosk at the airport if one forget to do it at downtown.

younger gens too influence by the US counterpart. many dream of going there and trying hard to learn english if possible. but for them when come to learn english language, it seems like they face more difficulty compare to when they learn chinese or japanese. many of my korean friends say so. i guess is because of the sequences. just like me feel so so difficult to learn hangul in the beginning  laugh.gif
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Yeah exactly! Korean language is the polar opposite of English. Different sentence structures. I don't know mandarin either (which is the easiest language to transition from to Korean due to the many similarities).

But lately there are more and more loan words from English into Konglish. Won't be surprising in a decade or so time, the Korean language will be very rojak like our "malay" language now a days.


QUOTE(zstan @ Oct 14 2016, 10:52 AM)
Yeah most hostels are run by Western educated youngsters. Got quite a shock when I first checked in to my dorm when the staff counter was using f bombs throughout his conversation with me laugh.gif
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laugh.gif

No offense to guesthouses, but tried once, never again. It was a regretful experience.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Oct 14 2016, 04:09 PM
SSJBen
post Oct 14 2016, 10:42 PM

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QUOTE(yvonnesoo @ Oct 14 2016, 04:45 PM)
agreed. plus after generation by generation and changes by influences and etc, there are many loan words from english. they also learn english from this way haha. so far most guesthouses i went before is good  tongue.gif 

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I... don't know. I like more privacy and I don't like to fuss about "cleaning your own plates" and being "quiet" at night. And the beds... haha, never again.

Really, no offense to guesthouses as I'm sure there are good ones. It's just not for me. I'd rent a short-term serviced apartment or just stay in a hotel.


QUOTE(koonghx @ Oct 14 2016, 09:35 PM)
MYR is going up against KRW. But still very low compared to 2 months ago.

Long time I didn't visit this thread and now we are on new version dy.

This year felt like no autumn at all..

Last year at this time I was still wearing T-shirt and short pants,  this year so fast and so sudden became very cold..

Hopefully, it became cold earlier and this year's winter won't be as cold as last year's -20 winter.
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Cold? I wished it was colder just a couple of weeks ago. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Oct 14 2016, 10:46 PM

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