Anyone facing the same issue?

1. After switching off the engine, car repeatedly lock and unlock the doors itself ( intermittently)
When the issue occurs, doors cannot be locked using remote and keys (it will unlocks itself after seconds)

2. Squeaking noise from rear seats (back supports) when passenger lie down & get up

3. Front passenger door handle hard to open, sometimes

4. Boot/trunk spring noise (opening & closing)

5. side skirting (driver's side) is not contact properly in the back end (already send to SC once to fix it)

I see. i still prefer fully syn althou jz group3 oil..

10% fully + 90% mineral = semi
50% fully + 50% mineral = semi

EO = base oil + additives

I guess the fosser brand have better additives package within

Last service i did add it, this round service skipped it coz sparepart shop out of stock for B1.

Those C60 FS EO and Kiwami Oil Treatment hard to find...many shop didnt carry it

Sorry Abang dares.  I went junior hunting but can't find them. Those mystical beast remained as legend.

It's been so long since I last read the forum.

Kumho any model in particular?

Anyone used viking before? It's by continental, made in Alor Star factory if not mistaken. Cheap but dunno how's the feel. SA recommended me last time long ago but that time I choose CC5. Now almost botak

Guys.. the check engine light went off everytime i restart the car and it came back again. But i realise whenever i pull high rev , the light will blink. Anyone experienced this before?

Do you mean MAP sensor?

I clean once b4, using electronic cleaner spray.

Car less "semput" after clean the MAP sensor

I do mine outside after warranty..

Previously using Bardahl Fully EO, price friendly, 115 like that

Timing belt kit around 240

water pump, cvt filter i skipped, cvt filter last change at 60k

rocker seal 40 like that

fead belt 50/60

labour charge i forget, parts bought from sparepart shop

Quick clean n little tree looks not needed items...

can someone tell me whats the meaning of the left light ? my car keeps sudden cannot move when it blinks , and my car just stop middle of the road, and only can start after a few minutes, it fears me alot.

I just changed my 3 years+ Saga FLX Fuel Pump, the mechanic quote me Rm400 for the fuel pump only. Is it OK?

Silverstone M3 tyre are piece of shit. Lost grip on wet surface twice. Once at Genting, 2nd at North-south highway. Both causing damage but the accident at highway hurt my car badly.

replaced all 4pcs mountings mine last time with original proton, last 2-3y only, vibration start coming back already...

Just to see any other brand that would last longer

My FLX SE clocked 102km recently and it's time to change the engine oil, been using the Petronas all the while and recently on budget mode, any good recommendation?

Also I suspect the car both front lower arms are loose, causing sound when turning left/right.. What's the market price to replace/repair...

Gonna be big hole soon in my pocket 

Thanks, just repaired last Saturday, below are the cost to share with everyone although cost are higher as long the workmanship is good and trust able..

One side lower arm they quote me
original - rm255
third party - rm175

So total cost are rm583 since I took the original parts, includ oil filter and labor charge for changed engine oil..

Is there big difference if I take third party?

The same thing izit?
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if you compare the parts model, it is the same.

your case is consider minor service.

major service require open dashboard because cooling coil is underneath the dashboard.

consider this, do minor service once a year. perform major service every 3rd year. some owners make mistake only perform minor service only. most owners make mistake never do service.

some also make mistake about minor service because they thought change gas, change compressor oil is enough. must change receiver drier AND valve also.

i am one of them last time. lol.

why need major service? your need to open dashboard, take out cooling coil to inspect/clean cooling coil, inspect/clean condenser and so on

service aircond is only just change compressor and gas only, mech will check for gas pressire and so on, but with use machine, everything is easy job for them.

if your aircond is got problem, they usually will proceed with major service, will inpect everything including cooling coil, condenser, compressor.

if worse case, need to change full set.

hope this clary to all who concern about aircond. if not, just continue with life until one day your aircond broke down.

i just unlucky i learn about aircond very late because no source to learn and no trusted workshop to do aircond service until done 1st aircond service in 2017, 1st repair in 2018. own car in 2011. so how terrible of me never done service in 6 years, too late already imagine how terrible the compressor oil already. but what to do me noob that time.

i guess it wont turn literally black, darker than original fluid.

debris from metallic surface and the clutch plate plus the fluid oxidation

and Proton CVT fluid 1L/4L packing got fake one, physically look the very similar with the original packing

Be careful....

internet got comparison between fake and ori. zordaq fb got upload pics comparison.

some workshop also dunno your car is cvt or 4at. then buta2 pour atf instead of cvt fluid.

some workshop does not perform clutch adaptation after changing cvt fluid.

last time more worse, some protong sc pour atf instead of manual gb fuid for savvy.