13mm (~20mm equivalent FF FoV); so wide - the distortion; f/1.4 edge to edge contrast/sharpness wide open suspect

plus the thing looks like a XF90F2, or bigger... the weight

oh well all things photography is subjective anyway.

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Aug 13 2021, 01:46 PM

I'll wait and see; already have close MF equivalents (more silent than LM ) would be interesting to see what they come up with size, weight (manual clutch?) and price point, esp if its close to the price to the XF35mmF1.4 (MYR 2k ish), WR would be interesting as well

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Aug 21 2021, 08:51 PM

Looks like some sample shots/and photos using of the XF33mmF1.4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGLbwEuwu8E

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Sep 3 2021, 05:40 PM

If you are on one of the WR bodies (X-H1, X-Pro Series, X-T Series) it probably something to look forward to. (That is if you care and have a real world use of WR).

If one would take a look at the wikipedia page of Fuji X mount and sort the lenses by ascending released/introduction dates it seems as clear as day that Fuji is working down the list of earliest released lenses XF18mm , XF35mmF1.4, XF23mmF1.4 etc

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Sep 4 2021, 01:31 PM

BTW, a question for folks with IBIS Fuji's (X-S10/X-T4): How much stabilization in practice you get out of it? (say on a prime without OIS vs. with OIS only vs. with OIS+IBIS ) More? Meh? some? Not noticeable?

Some fuji lenses already have a very impressive 5 stop optical stabilization as it is, I wonder how much better it can get with IBIS?

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Sep 5 2021, 03:58 PM

X-Pro2 is a rangefinder 'styled' with an optical VF / the X-E2/3/4 series is electronic VF.

IQ comes from sensor and lens combination. IMHO the sensor diff is marginal at best (E4 being slight edge due to being newer generation). Its comes down to built and feel. OVF is not for everyone, i suggest you try it if you like it first. (If you dont an E4 is the cheaper alternative) WR - weather resistance sealing only works as a set if you intend to use the body with WR lenses.

Despite being rangefinder styled, these cameras and the the 100v/f/t/s they are not true ranger finders. True range finders doesn't have AF motors LOL, they are MF lens coupled focus. AF performance depends more than body varies along the line up of XF-series lenses, some eg like the XF 90mmF2 are very snappy, others less so like older lenses XF 60mmF2.4. And they depends on lens compatibility of Phase/contrast detection sensor and also local lighting conditions (AF wont work if reliably if too dark)

I use an X-Pro2 primarily with vintage lens (which are all manual focus, so AF is moot for me), its still today a very good performer for still photos, and its weight (although lighter than a typical leica m but heavier than a E4), pairs better weight wise than the lighter E4 with heavier metal construction vintage lenses

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Oct 13 2021, 03:33 PM

Try have a look at prices at KLDSLR or ylcamera ; there is nothing i want there at the moment tho

There will always be slight framing differences due to parallax the nature of the OVF off lens axis, your set focus distance and how you position of your eyes also will affect the viewed framing. One tip is update your camera firmware and lens firmware they should bring performance and stability updates, for some lenses improved framing estimation in the OVF overlay too. It is just the nature of using a rangefinder style OVF camera, either adjust your technique when using this camera, check the edges of your frame (aka edge patrol) before taking the shot in anticipation framing may not be exact. IF absolute framing accuracy is needed, go EVF mode / use the LCD live view. Also you might want to try turning on Corrected AF framing for better framing (min max estimations) with Fuji's XF lenses

as for EVF 'being small' i think you triggered the mini evf (for a mode fuji calls hybrid OVF/EVF), the true EVF occupies the entire view finder same as the OVF. The lever can be pushed left and right; left being the mini/hybrid evf/ovf mode, right is the full EVF only mode; and if you push right and hold the lever (in OVF mode) it will change the optical viewer's magnification (this is also done/changed automatically to accommodate diff lens focal lengths, so that framing for wide lenses fit in view and longer lens are not too small to view in the OVF) this dual magnification is unique the X-Pro2, (take that X-pro3 ) tho the newer model X-pro3 has a fixed mag but bigger viewing area in the OVF.

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Oct 13 2021, 11:12 PM

Poor cassette tape kena abused, for no reason

Could be the choice of hosting the images in LYN forum applying crappy image compression on the image served, or just operator error; the photos aren't really a good demo of the lens's updated capabilities (which some speculate as an upgrade in lens resolving resolution for the upcoming newer sensors)

Go look at shop prices (example: YLcamera; KLDSLR) for those used items at a guidelines. Remember that is the price a buyer would pay the shop, not the price the shop would buy you stuff from you. Shop is a business and has margins to make and monthly operational costs and tries to sell people stuff they want quickly, at prices they willing to pay for. So price yours accordingly. Ebay sold listings prices an be a rough guide too.

PS: there probably is an internet FAQ on buying and selling your own photographic equipment somewhere,

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Nov 11 2021, 07:36 PM

That 100V is practically new, like the xpro3 you wont find any used unit for a while. Folks who bought these types of camera knew what they were doing, with those launch prices. Even if they don't like it and decide to sell, it would be picked up on the used market almost instantly

You'll get a chance to see used units when fuji announces newer flagship models, eg. X-pro4, 100VI, X-H2 (probably ) and people jumpship

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Nov 11 2021, 07:45 PM

Native noise on the x-series sensors (esp B+W) is pretty

X-Pro2 ISO 12800 1/60 35mm f1.4, Acros+Y



This post has been edited by lonewalker: Dec 20 2021, 02:10 PM

DR priority is essentially highlights overexposure/clipping 'protection'(to a certain degree). It only works at high ISO (ISO higher than the base ISO). As you crack up the ISO your sensor dynamic range decreases, so its easy to overshot your dynamic range in those cases. (See Chart > Pick your camera sensor).

That said, DR priority only applies to SooC JPEGs, if you shoot raw, it is moot you will be adjusting the dynamic range via the exposure, highlights, shadow, etc in lightroom/C1 anyway.

I tend to leave it at 100%

This post has been edited by lonewalker: Jan 3 2022, 06:16 PM

Either one works, depends on your preferences. For me, i prefer C1.