Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

22 Pages  1 2 3 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

> The Sony Alpha Thread V63, From A to E Mount! (Photography)

views
     
IwanAGP
post Jul 31 2016, 06:37 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(bdrc @ Jul 29 2016, 09:55 AM)
Happened to me but not often, not sure how to alleviate the problem too.
*
The sound is camera cleaning sound la. Long startup I no idea hah

QUOTE(edpaul @ Jul 29 2016, 07:13 PM)
few hiccup startup issue.

1. turning off and on, there is a small delay for the cleaning mode to kick in on the older model at first ON. but for the later model the cleaning mode happens during switching Off. so if u do a quick Off-On, then the 2nd On will have the start up hiccup due to the cleaning mode during turning off.

2. sleep wake up hiccup, errr i dont have this problem. but if you did swap a memory card before the sleep wake, read #3. similar issue.

3. battery swap start up hiccup, the WORST when u have large card with lots of picture... because battery swap startup requires the camera to read the card, so it has to read the card information all over again and check the amount of picture and calculating the space left and predict the number of shot can be taken. (go give it a try)
*
Thats something new!! Never really know battery swap isn't just battery swap!
IwanAGP
post Sep 25 2016, 03:02 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(evilhomura89 @ Sep 25 2016, 11:32 AM)
Hi, I have a question for a6000 owners here who shoots primarily on JPEG
Are you experiencing this? -> Whenever the shutter is pressed, you get a preview of your image for one second and then suddenly it gets replaced by a slightly different color rendering of the same exact image (possibly due to jpeg processing in camera).

The only thing is, I'm quite happy with what I see for the first second and then the colors changes and I don't quite like that. Any ideas what is happening and how to prevent this other than shooting RAW?
*
biggrin.gif don't know since when I moved on started shooting RAW+JPG. Now considering stop shooting JPG just RAW to save space.

I know what you referring to but can't quite recall which setting causing that. is it the DRO? Try turn DRO off.
IwanAGP
post Oct 17 2016, 09:12 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(domo_kun @ Oct 17 2016, 06:33 PM)
Alright, I answered my own question. LOL. Tilted the camera facing downwards, blow the hell out of it, and tested shooting in front of a white screen. Gone. No more black dots!  rclxms.gif
*
Blow with your mouth?

Anyone using lenspen? Really helps in cleaning the lens?

How about rear lens element? How to clean?
IwanAGP
post Nov 2 2016, 10:45 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


Tested Samyang 12mm F2 at shop the other day.

12mm F2 at its MFD. The DOF is like about 2cm. In focus part is about 20cm from sensor plane (according to spec).

Almost got it at Studio Zaloon but don't have enough cash. Next time... Next time...

Attached Image

Btw... YLCamera there offer the SEL55210 at cut throat price. RM14XX. Told them even harvey norman list price RM848 yet the staff barely referred to the online price on their website then deduct few bucks off. End up gotten the SEL55210 from Studio Zaloon at RM720.

Was that supposed to be their standard? But I appreciate that they let me tried the 8mm F2.8 fisheye. Price for that is alright though.
IwanAGP
post Nov 2 2016, 11:12 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(evilhomura89 @ Nov 2 2016, 11:09 PM)
How much are they selling the 12mm F2 at studio zaloon?
*
Studio Zaloon 1350 IIRC.

YL 1480.


8mm F2.8 Studio Zaloon no stock. YLCamera 1280. Quite tempted to get this too but am looking into long exposure photography so 12mm F2 is on top of the list of wide angle lens with filter thread.
IwanAGP
post Nov 2 2016, 11:56 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(evilhomura89 @ Nov 2 2016, 11:20 PM)
Did you check out this particular chinese lens in YL -> http://www.ylcamera.com.my/products/kl-8mmf3-sel
Not a bad price for a fun lens, but i'm expecting the optic quality to be on the mediocre side
*
Wa seems like a fun lens. I didn't try that. Only tried the 8mm F2.8 from Samyang. RM1280.


Wow... 50mm F1.1 lens for RM599

http://www.ylcamera.com.my/products/kl-50f...ant=17450781893

This post has been edited by IwanAGP: Nov 2 2016, 11:59 PM
IwanAGP
post Nov 20 2016, 01:28 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 20 2016, 12:52 AM)
From an poor enthusiast's perspective, 500+ is quite a lot already for what you splash out. It's all about the price/capacity/failure probability ratio.

However, I understand where you're coming from of course, that's why the SD folks make them huge cap cards in the first place, for the people who *really* use them: The Working Pros for whom space is not something they can skimp on.

I'm a poor, relatively unproductive photo enthusiast lol, 64 is already a good deal of flash real estate for me and I simply can't justify anything bigger... yet.
*
Me too is now on 64GB Samsung Evo Plus for my A6000.
Shooting fully in RAW+jpg now. After transfer to PC and Ext HDD will delete the RAW copy on the SD card keeping just the JPG for preview on camera since A6000 got no in body RAW processing.

Now happily sitting at 1.2k RAW+JPG remaining with close to 3k jpg all the way from the first pictures taken when I just got the camera.

The Samsung card is enough for me since A6000 can't really write much faster than the rated write speed of the card. Got it for 24SGD during PC Fair down here.


Btw... Had gotten a number of new toys recently and also some cheapo filters from eBay and Lazada to experiment with. Quite a number of 3rd party cokin p square ND/GND filter set, round screw on ND filter, macro filter for fun, reverse lens macro adaptor, step up rings from 40.5-49-67, some lens and body caps (Sony I'm looking at you for not including it in kit lens packages) etc. Though still on the way. Looking forward to toy with those biggrin.gif

Got a SEL55210 from Zaloon, discovered that there's some issue with manual focusing. The lens tends to detect that the lens zoom is being altered (zoom in or out) then it will drop out of focus and also goes out from MF Assist mode. When the lens thinks the zoom has changed let say by 1-2 mm, under manual focus the focus point will just jump doh.gif See if I can get the tourist warranty from MY to work in SG.

And another toy... Samyang 12mm f2. Got it cheaper with 2 years local SG warranty here. Even cheaper than yl, zaloon and kldslr. Current arsenal biggrin.gif
Attached Image

Then... Another toy. Finally no need to keep camera attached to the wall to get the battery charged. SGD8 from Lazada. Worth it!
Attached Image

This post has been edited by IwanAGP: Nov 20 2016, 01:42 PM
IwanAGP
post Nov 20 2016, 08:03 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 20 2016, 03:53 PM)
You can't develop RAWs into JPEGs in-body, for any of the E-mount cams (not sure about A-mount). You either shoot in JPEG, RAW or R+J... you can't shoot in RAW and decide to convert it into JPEGs in-camera later. RAW conversion has to happen off-camera, in laptops or sufficiently capable tablets with appropriate software.

As for those JPEGs you get to transfer though the PlayMemories App to your phone even while shooting RAW-only, those are the 2MP "preview" JPEGs baked into (or shot with by default) the ARWs... which means yeah, there's no use transferring those onto your mobile for RAW chimping 100% crops.

Sony upgrading the App to allow RAW conversion would probably make it a killer pro tool... but yeah, Sony being Sony, not expecting that to happen anytime soon.
*
hmm.gif Maybe can try playmemories you setting set to Full then maybe can get the jpeg.
Thanks for answering the question haha.

IINM Fuji got such feature to adjust the raw file and output jpg in camera.

QUOTE(kyLL @ Nov 20 2016, 03:59 PM)
wow.. why are u keeping those jpgs on your camera anyway?
*
biggrin.gif biggrin.gif I'm a hoarder. Super hoarder. Probably tongue.gif

Anyway... I still got 1.2k pictures can take. No worry of running out of memory. Just let it be lo biggrin.gif
IwanAGP
post Nov 20 2016, 08:29 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 20 2016, 08:09 PM)
Nope, it doesn't work that way. Even set to "full" sending RAWs from your cam over through the App will only give you the 2MB "preview" JPEG.

Only way the app can give you *real* full sized JPEGs is if you 1) shoot R+J or 2) shoot JPEGs (lol of course).
*
Nah no idea. I always R+J coz only that way I can keep a copy of JPG inside all time biggrin.gif

11.9k shutter count thus far. That's about 2 years. I don't shoot a lot don't I hmm.gif hmm.gif

IwanAGP
post Nov 20 2016, 10:23 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 20 2016, 09:20 PM)
I probably shoot even less... but to be fair I spread it over two bodies lol.

As for R+J, maybe the 64 card would finally allow me to shoot R+J at a decent clip. The old 32 cards just wouldn't do in terms of capacity for R+J.

Or rather, maybe I should *finally* become disciplined enough to actually process my RAWs at the end of every shooting day rather than going through a mountain of them when I do decide to do it lol.

olen Sounds like a decent price. Sure you *can* wait for the A7iii to come out for prices to come down, it's entirely up to you.
*
biggrin.gif

But you need 64GB card to get XAVCS to work if you do video.
Part of me is also buying the 64GB card so I don't feel "limited".

Like part of the camera can't be used I feel incomplete cool2.gif
IwanAGP
post Nov 21 2016, 10:00 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Loseeker @ Nov 21 2016, 06:26 PM)
How much you paid for your sammy 12mm?
*
S$440 with 2 years local SG warranty. Kldslr 1360 Zaloon 1350 yl 1480 last month when I check in KL. With 1 years DSC warranty if not wrong. Malaysia only.
IwanAGP
post Nov 26 2016, 05:58 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 24 2016, 09:08 PM)
As soon as it's near local launch, Uncle Chin from SZ (with Sony Malaysia) should organise some sort of touch and test event for it... as per all the previous major Alpha launches.

So far, nothing yet.

Personally not *feeling* the A6.5k really. For the price I'm thinking that an A7ii is of much better value overall... even if there's the issue of FF lens price to factor in.

Sure, touch screen and IBIS is nice... but I already have touch screen in one of my bodies already... so yeah. Unless, of course, the prices goes down to more *practical* levels once my A6k dies off for real lol... and even then the A7ii price should also have dropped to make it even *better* value.

Buuuuut, that's just what I think. As always, YMMV.

FirstAidKit The NEX3N is fine starter, though if you ask me the A5000/5100 (or NEX5R/T) is much better to start with. Why? WIFI transfer (and remote of course) is really, really useful... much more than I initially expected lol.
*
Shit... Now I wonder if my A6000 dies off which camera body should I get next... Current lens line up wont let me go full frame. Don't have the urge to do that for now either.

Am waiting for A6500 to launch to get a hands on it. Need to check the screen on it. The one on A6000 is not as good as some others. Hopefully the A6500 one is better. But review says the stupid rolling shutter still continue to roll in A6500 despite the much improved sensor readout performance. One important thing that Sony has done right this time is that we can now change settings while the camera is still busy writing instead of locking up the camera like all current lineup. Tested that on RX100MV and it's really nice. Finally not so stupid.

Probably wait till one day when I'm earning too much more than that I can spend I'll probably consider upgrade FF.

Even if I were to go FF, it will only going to be the R series. But the lenses to match the almighty 42MP sensors going to cost a huge bomb. Imagine A7Rii + 16-35 + 70-200 + 50/85 prime. RM25k?

QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 24 2016, 10:35 PM)
A7II + Canon 50L
user posted imageDSC03868-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
*
Looks like got some purple cast over the white area bokeh in the background. Can try use manual fringing correction tool in LR to correct?

Or my phone not calibrated it looks purplish to me?
IwanAGP
post Nov 29 2016, 11:29 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(darrenwks @ Nov 29 2016, 04:52 PM)
Anyone can recommend any good tripod for A6000?
*
Sirui A-1005 + Y10 ballhead biggrin.gif

I'm using this. Pretty sturdy tripod for the price paid. But a little heavy.
It folds down to quite small can pack into my daily backpack.

Was looking at the smaller portable options from Sirui but the higher price and the shorter length just can't make me justify to go for those.
This one price is quite ok, is quite tall compared to the more portable ones and also comes with better and sturdier ballhead (with quick release button). If you want can change to monopod also by disarming one of the legs. Although I found out that the height is too short IMO as a monopod.

Definitely an upgrade from my previous Digieye tripod biggrin.gif But at almost 1.5times the weight doh.gif


http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/111925526135?_t...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Swt... Got cheated by the title of the ebay seller. Luckily I bought another body cap from the same seller. That purchase however is unexpected. Instead of just a body cap, it came in 1 set of body + rear lens cap. I bought 2 sets of this and 2 sets of those.

Now I have 2 Sony alpha rear lens cap around which I don't even have any of the alpha lenses doh.gif

Same price for both items lagi doh.gif One set body + rear lens cap for E mount = One alpha rear lens cap

This post has been edited by IwanAGP: Nov 29 2016, 11:32 PM
IwanAGP
post Dec 2 2016, 11:45 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 2 2016, 03:38 PM)
The HVL-F20M can "command" (or actually just wireless TTL) another Sony flash. Like Silverfire said its just really infrared though, but unlike my FlashQ it's TTL.
*
QUOTE
In photography, through-the-lens (TTL) metering refers to a feature of cameras whereby the intensity of light reflected from the scene is measured through the lens; as opposed to using a separate metering window or external hand-held light meter. In some cameras various TTL metering modes can be selected.
Correct me if I'm wrong. TTL has nothing to do with the connection method/channel used by a wireless flash system.

Sony F20M is using optical system (Infrared) to send out the trigger signal while some others use the flash as the trigger signal (Optical slave).

FlashQ/Phottix etc though they're using Radio signal (EM wave) normally at 2.4GHz frequency which coincides with our WiFi frequency which is also 2.4GHz (different spectrum though).

As such, optical system should have the requirement of being in line-of-sight while radio system can be omnidirectional.

TTL or not though depends on the flash compatibility with the system. Whether the flash system can meter and set the power accordingly.

QUOTE(dannykhoo17 @ Dec 2 2016, 06:26 PM)
Where do you get your tripod from?
*
Working in SG. Got it from local distributor. 6 years warranty @ $119. Ready for mounting bigger guns including even DSLR wink.gif

This post has been edited by IwanAGP: Dec 2 2016, 11:45 PM
IwanAGP
post Dec 3 2016, 12:16 AM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(vincetee06 @ Dec 3 2016, 12:14 AM)
A7Rii + Batis 25mm
*
ISO25600 no problem tongue.gif
IwanAGP
post Dec 3 2016, 03:47 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(dannykhoo17 @ Dec 3 2016, 10:09 AM)
Is it similar to sirui t004 + c10 ball head? Thinking to get that one price is around rm450
*
Quite different..T series is for Travel thus it's smaller in size for storage convenience. The A series I bought has higher load capacity, more advanced ball head, shorter folded height and slightly higher maximum height. It can convert to mono pod ad well. But it's fatter when stored (albeit shorter). It's also more heavy than the other.

I went with the A1005 because of the ball head and also the taller height that I can work with. Don't really mind the weight that much as the shorter length made it easier to be stored in my casual backpack..

Ball head wise, Y10 ball head is better for having the quick release button. No need to turn the knob all the way out to take out and slide in the camera. The included plate is also bigger and wider although not really needed for A6000. In case someone with a DSLR borrows tripod from you this one can definitely take it up.

All depends on your usage... BTW I think Sirui is much cheaper in Singapore biggrin.gif The A1005 I bought it for 119 which means around RM360. Not bad IMO.
IwanAGP
post Dec 4 2016, 12:27 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(vincetee06 @ Dec 4 2016, 11:46 AM)
Well bro, thanks a lot, finally got comment from experience shooter.
Regarding the MF, during shooting, i tried to MF with focus peaking to the sea level, and the red dot did appeared on those sea level ship lights. this is correct? I can't think of other way to MF since the far light source is way too small to focus.
For shooting mode, i all shoot in raw with uncompressed option, file size about 90mb per photo.
No filter been used, the above picture been colour temp adjusted by LR. I purposed adjusted to cold colour, due to a lot of light pollution along the sky, original raw colour is almost full orange colour sky.
My WB setting at auto of course.
Do you think i need to pump up more ISO to get good photo? because i found out even in low iso, but with longer shutter time will do the same picture with much lower noise too.
Pls comment anything i need to improve for night sky shooting, i really need to pick up my shooting skill with this new baby.

last thing, any tips to find out the milky way shoot like yours? i tried sky apps last night, and i shoot at the exact location which sky apps shows where the milky way located, but still nothing shows up. Anything wrong?
*
biggrin.gif biggrin.gif I'm also picking up on that after getting my Samyang 12mm F2.

M'sia should be better for milky way. Now in SG. So much light pollution + now kinda raining season night time sky always covered with clouds.

Nothing shows up probably because got clouds?
IwanAGP
post Dec 4 2016, 02:19 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Silverfire @ Dec 4 2016, 01:22 PM)
Thanks for not taking offense. I wrote critically and unusually lengthy is because I do not want you to waste the potential your camera has to offer.

Regarding tripod, anything above RM300 can do a very good job.

As to why you can't get milky way is because you're shooting in the city or even suburban area where light pollution is severe. Asian suburbs got street lights all the way so it's not as suburb as say Australian suburbs. First rule of shooting milky way is to always find a darkest possible area to shoot it, as far away from city lights as possible. Milky way shots are usually shot in ISO3200 or higher because the noise doesn't matter as they blend in with all the stars.

You said longer exposure time can get the same amount of light without increasing ISO is correct but that will always cause unwanted light trails or in this case star trails. So if you want sharp starry photos, go for higher ISO. A7R2 has got 42MP, you'll do well to post process the photo and downsample it by at least one time to reduce whatever blemish you do not want.

Whether star trail will appear or not depends on your focal length and exposure time. Wider angle allow for longer exposure time without creating star trail. I believe there's a calculator or table out there that informs you of these matters. Also smaller aperture will cause diffraction to your photo where your photo will end up to be less sharp. I forgot what is it called sweat.gif

Now let's go back to MF. Disable focus peaking because as of now I personally think Sony's focus peaking algorithm is still shitty. Try infinity focus in day time to see if the infinity mark is real, most of time it is not. Only very specific and usually very expensive lens have real infinity focus. Most lens that we use have a infinity focus that is beyond infinity which will actually cause things to be out of focus. In actual use, the infinity focus is usually before the infinity mark. In some cases, the infinity focus are for things that are further than 2KM away or more. So it's best you familiarise with your lens during the day before trying to MF during the night. Forgot to mention that this is also harder to achieve when using a focus by wire lens such as the Batis series.

I should also add that for my milky way photo posted above, in the original raw you can almost see nothing(you can see the shape but definitely not as bright as that) . I had to +2 stops of exposure in post. So it's all an experiment on how to balance between exposure time, ISO and how much the raw files from your camera can be manipulated.
*
Wider angle the star trail is still there but since more things compressed into the scene you have to blow up to probably 300-500% to see it biggrin.gif Provided your camera has that resolution.

True... All my lenses thus far focuses beyond infinity whether AF or MF lenses. The diffraction thing you referring to stopping down (narrower aperture) or what? For Samyang 12mm F2 I see people recommend to shoot milky way with it wide open instead. biggrin.gif
IwanAGP
post Dec 4 2016, 09:23 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(kizwan @ Dec 4 2016, 08:32 PM)
The reason why I choose bigger object like house or trees is because I can make sure the object is really in focus; more red/yellow dots on the object mean the object really in focus. So far worked well for me because when I include the trees when shooting the stars, the tree is nicely in focus.

This time around the sky is not clear enough for shooting milkyway unfortunately. It is raining almost everyday.
*
With my Samyang 12mm I just turn to the focus dot to the infinity marking then can safely shoot away d. Once in a while when see review not sharp enough only check focus biggrin.gif

Yeah... Went somewhere near the sea just now in SG (probably only place with less light pollution in SG). Sky filled with cloud. sweat.gif
IwanAGP
post Dec 4 2016, 11:46 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,486 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(vincetee06 @ Dec 4 2016, 11:24 PM)
How would i take your advice as offense? i jumped to Sony system and keep posting here just because i need real advice and expert/experienced shooter comment to improve my skill. If i only want to hear those good wording and tons of like,
i will just go fb. So pls, just feel free to drop comment, i am all ear to u guys.

FYI that, i actually live in kampung area, and just behind my house (across a small Palm field) is a beach. I suspect those orange light will appear is due to those cloud were too low and the street lighting reflecting on it.
Hopefully the light pollution will improve when clear sky ahead.

Btw, may i know how many aperture u recommended for milky way shooting? if wide open, image less sharp, if close a little, less light captured....

For tripod, i thinking to get this: https://world.taobao.com/item/44356324083.h...0.21pJX0#detail
Small, compact, easy to bring, and cheap also =D
*
Bro... You invested in RM10k in A7RII + another RM5500 for Batis 25mm, can't you invest in a RM300 - 500 tripod?

Btw... That kind of locking mechanism really isn't recommended. When you mount your camera with a heavy lens, no guarantee when any of the three legs will slip and make your setup topple. Not worth taking the risk of dropping your RM15.5k setup.

Probably consider going for Manfrotto/Sirui etc. If got the cash then can even consider take a look at Gitzo.

Good tripod lasts you longer than your camera does. Why not? icon_idea.gif icon_idea.gif

22 Pages  1 2 3 > » Top
 

Switch to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.2228sec    0.63    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 2nd June 2020 - 12:07 AM