hehe mah fav topic 
depending on the type and state of the car you get, you will 'try' keep it for a long time... sometimes they become too impractical or well, things change in the future~~ so pick/plan accordingly

im thinking should i cancel my booking for Honda city as my relative told me honda car nowadays have alot of problem, and his relatives city 3 years gt gearbox problem dy. and his old honda also alot of maintenance.

im wondering should i change to new persona ? 
not going for vios as vios does not have VSC.

Other than the airbag fiasco, the citi's are pretty tanky cars. Few friends own this car (current gen), no problems. Afaik, only the city GD (4th gen) had some hiccups to do with the cvt

whether you should change to a persona? really depends on what you want.

Latio with boot isn't hard to find.
But really what do you really want?
You're everywhere from sedan to mpv.

Innova is based on a special body on platform designed by Toyota so they can produce the innova, hilux and fortuner with minimal retooling.
Nothing really to shout about.
It is big and you get the space.
But material quality is lowered down to become cheaper.
Compare Wish and Innova interior is a huge difference in refinement eventhough the Wish is supposed to be a segment lower.

About that 3rd gen Proton Perdana.
Those were like CKD Honda Accords but only badge change from Honda to Proton.
Those for government use only.
Don't think it will be available in the market anytime soon.
But the real Honda Accord which is similar to that is only about 50-60k nowadays.

hey jack can add this to the sticky? oh and delete this line 

Today I'm going to talk about the thing on everyone's mind. How to buy, finance and maintain a sports car.
A real sports car not some sporty car, special edition, standard car with higher capacity engine & bodykit, R3, TRD, GT and all those other bullshit.

First let's talk about affordability.
Let's say you have a take home salary after deductions of $3000.
Let's put a ballpark figure on your cost of living and savings from this.

Rental = $400 (assume your rental includes your water, electric and internet)
Food = $5 * 3 meals a day * 30 days = $450 (total budget of course if you eat $1 nasi lemak for breakfast you got extra $4 for dinner)
Petrol = RON95 @ $1.70 per litre * $0.15 per km * 2000km in a month = $510 (assuming you cannot claim this from your company)
Phone = Umobile $28 plan
Savings = $500
Total = $1888

Your sports car budget is $1112.

Next is 3 options you need to think about.

Option 1: Everything into one basket
Option 2: Cheap runabout + Expensive sports car
Option 3: Cheap sports car + Moderate runabout

In Option1 at first you might think is $1000 really enough? It can be enough if you plan properly. This is going to be a sports car so you're going to go all-in on the banking side which means low downpayment and maximum of 9 years loan, because of two reasons, one a true sports car no matter how old there will be interest and value, and secondly sports car if maintained well you'll want to keep it for a long time so no point saving on the banking side  because you're not going to do a quick loan and resell the car after 5 years like you would if you own a Vios. Also going all-in on the banking side would leave you with cash on hand as maintenance fund so you don't touch your savings. You'll be targeting cars like Evo, WRX, GTI as they are cars that can serve a dual purpose as a family car and sports car over the weekend, but of course there are compromises



2007 VW Golf GTI MK5 - i decided to use this one as an example because they're pretty common on the Malaysian roads, especially KL thus there is the critical mass needed for lowering of parts cost.

Let's get down to the maths, so the asking price is $64k so running through the loan calculator with minimum deposit of $1000, interest rate of 4% and loan for 9 years the monthly repayment would be $794 so minus that from our budget you've got $318 extra which should be sufficient to maintain this car.

Now let's talk about maintenance.

If you like to change oil every 7500km than I guess any VW 502.00 approved oil like Castrol Edge 5W-30 or Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 should be fine. They are "fully synthetic" oils ,actually hydrocracked (semi-synthetic) lubricants. The Hydrocracked is a just a chemically refined (purified)mineral oil. Price check at Lazada for Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 the cheapest for 4L is $190 and 1L is $50, you'll roughly need about 5L per service so I suggest to lurk online or shops for the best deals and buy to keep, and it is probably cheaper buying two 4L than one 4L and 1L each.

If you prefer to change oil every 10000-15000km than you should use VW 503.00 approved oil like Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W-40 or Castrol Edge 0W-40. They are 100% synthetic oils - PAO(polyalphaolefins) or esters . They are more expensive, price check at 11street is $287 for a 4L bottle of Castrol Edge 0w-40.

If you are perfectionist than you should use Motul 300V POWER 0W-40, Castrol Syntec 0W-30 however keep on mind that ester oil may soften engine seals. Plus this really breaks the budget so it is here only as information shared.

Accordingly to VW Golf GTi manual:

Vehicles with LongLife service should use - High lubricity multigrade oil / VW 504 00, VW 503 00
Vehicles without LongLife service should use - High lubricity multigrade oil / VW 501 01, VW 502 00, VW 504 00

However, mechs in Australia prefer to recommend their clients to use VW 502 00 because of the harsher conditions there together with shorter service intervals. So it should be the same for Asean region. Now lets do the math for this.

One month you're running 2000km and you need to service every 7500km.
So that roughly is 3 months before you need to do an oil change.
You might be thinking $318 x 3 months = $954 you can afford to put in more expensive oil.
Please don't think that way you're going to go broke fast.

Your minor service fee would be:
Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 5L = $140
Fuel filter = $70
Air filter = $70
Labour = $75
Total = $355

The $599 you've saved put it in a separate account as sinking funds for major service in which you might need to service and/or change parts for the aircon, or as emergency fund to change things like absorbers, bushings, rack-ends, lower arms, bearings, tires, etc. since it is afterall a used car. Believe me that even one of those issues lures its ugly head around that $599 isn't going to be enough unless those things happen after a year or so in that time you would've added quite a sum for this sinking fund so it won't hurt you that much. This is why it is very important to get a well taken cared of car, will full service record shown, and best is just serviced so you've saved yourself at least $300 bucks.

Also don't forget that 6speed wet clutch DSG gearbox although more reliable than the 7speed dry clutch DSG has a hidden secret, DSG and Dual Clutch Transmission in general are expensive to maintain but if you don't change it then it will fail like the dry clutch DSG. You'll need to do this change every 60,000km which is roughly based on 2000km per month is roughly 2.5years. Price check at Mudah quotes a DSG fluid change would cost you $750 with installation/labour minus GST. So you can see how that $318 budget seems like just enough to cover everything?
To be continued for Option 2 & Option 3   

The Vitara isn't something I would attach the word spacious with, plus you know obviously it is something wrong with the car when it depreciate from over 100k new to 50k used within less than 5 years.

2008 Toyota Voltz 1.8 - maybe you wanna explore this model, it isn't sold locally and was previously a recon, two things to remember for JDM cars are mechanical components and body parts. Mechanical components for Toyota shouldn't be an issue since this model shares almost everything with Altis 1.8G, body parts might be tougher since it is JDM there won't be many parts laying around for you even at chop shops thus price for those things might be expensive but usually from my experience the more common stuff like bumpers can be bought with relative ease and not so expensive (mind you that the pricing level is at least around anything as expensive as Altis parts), however for anything more than fender benders parts should be expensive since it is going to be import so get a good insurance cause you either gotta write-off the car to cash out for another car if it is really serious or if not so major then don't worry no matter how expensive the parts will be the insurance gotta pay for it.  Plus at only 30k for such a car if anything really goes wrong then it isn't that heartache to write-off .
Scirocco 2.0 and Golf GTI are both within the same performance range because they're using the same engine and gearbox, but because of the coupe body style it gets taxed much more than the GTI in malaysia thus it is never going to fit into the budget of the scenario above.

CRZ at this moment is about 10k off the budget but it isn't a sports car 

it is the usual lingo for the problems the car highlighting to you.
you know like battery low, transmission failure, etc.


Warranty is attached to the car, not the owner.
However, if the previous owner voided any warranty regulations like service at non authorized service centers than all bets are off.



Here is what you plan to you, right?
Buy a car that depreciated a little bit because it is 2 years old.
The thing is people rarely sell 2 year old cars unless it has problems.
Anyway, lets look at the math.

Look at the yellow line, interest paid to bank is the same amount if you buy new or used because of the interest rate difference.
Of course monthly you've got to fork out an extra 400 but you'll be getting a new car instead of a used one.

The car you intend to buy like Vios or City don't depreciate from 80k to 50k in 2 years.
People buy Toyota & Honda because resale value is high.
If you're to aim for Mitsubishi/Mazda/Nissan you'd be about right.

Hey guys, feel like buying this car trade wit proton saga 1.3 flx executive. Still thinking whether to buy vios or bezza or new persona. Any review on this car vios 2016?vios j version will do

I think it is easier to put in the extra interest cost  to the price of the 2nd hand car so that a 1-1 comparison can be made to new car.

On average 2nd hand car interest rate is about 1% higher so:-

Price of 2nd hand car + (1% X  number of years loan X loan amount) + processing fee.

Once you factor this in sometimes it may not be as cheap as you think.

eg:-
Mazda 6 2015 - 119k
http://www.mudah.my/2015+Mazda+6+2+0L+Skya...pe-48051712.htm

lets assume 7 year loan + 2k processing fee and 110k loan.
Total Cost = 119k + (1% X 110k X 7 years) + 2k = 128.7k
So the price you see is not the price you pay if you include the overhead.

now if you take the  128.7k and compare it with an unreg 2015.
http://www.mudah.my/UNREG+FACELIFT+2015+Ma...IV-46807875.htm

128.7k vs 139k unreg  <-- this is a more accurate comparison to new car price, not 119k vs 139k.

so the difference in price doesn't seem to be very big now and in fact the 2nd hand car is only 10k cheaper than new.

Just want to point out the 2nd hand purchase price is not what you get. There is a lot of "overhead" cost when you buy a second hand car that one needs to factor in that is not applicable when you buy new.

I think it is easier to put in the extra interest cost  to the price of the 2nd hand car so that a 1-1 comparison can be made to new car.

On average 2nd hand car interest rate is about 1% higher so:-

Price of 2nd hand car + (1% X  number of years loan X loan amount) + processing fee.

Once you factor this in sometimes it may not be as cheap as you think.

eg:-
Mazda 6 2015 - 119k
http://www.mudah.my/2015+Mazda+6+2+0L+Skya...pe-48051712.htm

lets assume 7 year loan + 2k processing fee and 110k loan.
Total Cost = 119k + (1% X 110k X 7 years) + 2k = 128.7k
So the price you see is not the price you pay if you include the overhead.

now if you take the  128.7k and compare it with an unreg 2015.
http://www.mudah.my/UNREG+FACELIFT+2015+Ma...IV-46807875.htm

128.7k vs 139k unreg  <-- this is a more accurate comparison to new car price, not 119k vs 139k.

so the difference in price doesn't seem to be very big now and in fact the 2nd hand car is only 10k cheaper than new.

Just want to point out the 2nd hand purchase price is not what you get. There is a lot of "overhead" cost when you buy a second hand car that one needs to factor in that is not applicable when you buy new.

im no good with loans and whatnot... but if you bought a new car usian a loan, dont you have to apply a similar multiplier to the new car's price?

Hi Zenix, what concern on Vitara ? mind to elaborate more ?
how about Wish ? is it a problematic car ?

[spoilers]
I think it is easier to put in the extra interest cost  to the price of the 2nd hand car so that a 1-1 comparison can be made to new car.

On average 2nd hand car interest rate is about 1% higher so:-

Price of 2nd hand car + (1% X  number of years loan X loan amount) + processing fee.

Once you factor this in sometimes it may not be as cheap as you think.

eg:-
Mazda 6 2015 - 119k
http://www.mudah.my/2015+Mazda+6+2+0L+Skya...pe-48051712.htm

lets assume 7 year loan + 2k processing fee and 110k loan.
Total Cost = 119k + (1% X 110k X 7 years) + 2k = 128.7k
So the price you see is not the price you pay if you include the overhead.

now if you take the  128.7k and compare it with an unreg 2015.
http://www.mudah.my/UNREG+FACELIFT+2015+Ma...IV-46807875.htm

128.7k vs 139k unreg  <-- this is a more accurate comparison to new car price, not 119k vs 139k.

so the difference in price doesn't seem to be very big now and in fact the 2nd hand car is only 10k cheaper than new.

Just want to point out the 2nd hand purchase price is not what you get. There is a lot of "overhead" cost when you buy a second hand car that one needs to factor in that is not applicable when you buy new.
[/spoilers]

Guys any recommendation on a car with 15k budget max? Planning to pay 20% and the rest loan for maybe 2 or 3 years then I will sell it off.

"car leg" so so only, considered quite soft imho for a SUV.
I was using a loaner once, and it is mostly a city car.
Absorbers and probably bearings gone from the sound of it, and it is only a 2010 car.
Mind you it is not a rented car, it is someone's main car, i was loaning it while he was overseas.
Space wise for your purpose it is going to be feeling quite tight.

I think I explained about Wish already.
Yes, there are alot of additionals like Air Asia style.
There is a sticky on the first page on all of this.
Usually sellers put a bare bones used car price then when he finally works out the OTR price it can be alot.
JPJ inspections, name transfer, GST, insurance, roadtax, etc.

About 80% of the time a buyer will get duped, it is not a system rigged in favor of the seller, more like lack of information on the buyer part.
Because unless they're lurking in mudah everyday to find their dream sports car and calculate the cost often.
Most buyers would only do a deal once every 5 years so lack of experience and information will make them easier targets for used car salesman.
unless you really need it urgently, it is best to just buy something cash at this price point.
because they're either decent but really old cars like Protons or fairly new but expensive to maintain cars like some Korean and most Conti's.
20% of 15k is about 3000, why not consider a decent and cheap car like Axia?

True that.. lack of experience is what the sellers capitalize on to dupe buyers. I went to get a mazda 6 2010 model and the seller told me that the insurance would cost me the same amount it was in 2010, rm3k+ WTF??? He started talking about the car < 10yrs old e.t.c.. Well at the end I didn't' buy.

Guys any recommendation on a car with 15k budget max? Planning to pay 20% and the rest loan for maybe 2 or 3 years then I will sell it off.

True that.. lack of experience is what the sellers capitalize on to dupe buyers. I went to get a mazda 6 2010 model and the seller told me that the insurance would cost me the same amount it was in 2010, rm3k+ WTF??? He started talking about the car < 10yrs old e.t.c.. Well at the end I didn't' buy.