INSPIRA not even japanese, outside is proton

except for steering it is all mitsu

since im not getting it for vroom vrrom, i prefer newer and more comfy car, problem is hard to find 2nd hand fluence, unless buy it from dealer

Inspira rather comfy unlike lancer due to protons suspension tuning.

i mean if compare to fluence..

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1...mibextid=dXMIcH okay, I found this 2013 Polo 1.6 but the mileage is like 245,736km

Is high mileage or low mileage for 10 year old cars important in the decision making process of buying a car

search around.
you can sometimes find them at other conti "premium selection" used car lots.
go through more credible sources like that, topmark, etc. before trying regular used car dealers if you're worried



ah! i forgot due to this the original inspira suspension parts are more expensive than lancer.



you can look at it from this point of view
if the mileage is high means the dealer didn't bother to tamper with anything
so what you see is what you get
inspect it for flood and accident damage
request to drive it to your trusty mechanic for a once over
if refuse offer to pump petrol rm10 should be enough to get you there and back
if they refuse and keep saying "only use our panel" or "when u buy will send to JPJ to check" all free
walk away something they trying to hide

Hi. I’m looking at 2010-2012 used x1. The price is about 30-32k. Is it a good buy?

Reason:
1. I prefer small suv car for my own ride. I have cx9 for family. Currently i’m driving w204 c250 for my own ride.
2. For the price, i can buy it cash. Old guy (40y.o) who prefer not to tie myself for another long term commitment with bank.
3. I have an old mitsubishi storm which i may sell to clear my garage. The car is severely under utulised.
4. Looking at used X1 since bmw car hardly looklng outdated eventhough they are older than my w204. Yeah, the batch is cannot be denied one of the factor.
5. I’m used to conti maintenance cost. Just wondering how much coslier it will be when the call for repair arise. And how frequent it will be?
6. How long it will be for any visit to workshop? (Question on sparepart availability).
7. I’m a typical ktard, earning circa 20k p.m..

Is X1 an ok car? Which one is better, 2010 cbu or 2012 ckd? For an old car, i’m not sure the 2 years gap make any different.

Thank in advance for your opinion.

At 40, you should be getting a great ride of your lifetime to fulfill your midlife crisis, not an old x1.

Why don't you suggest a great ride?

I had my brandnew c250 at my early thirties. Now seek financial freedom as my first priority and not going to pay a lot of money for a rapidly depreciating asset (crying hard for market value of my c20).

Yes, c class is entry level car. E and S class are much better. But i’m done with the chasing game. I’m no longer a heavy footer. 200++km/h was a distance memory.

Regarding this, I'm currently facing a problem, my hand-me-down Ford Fiesta 1.5 Titanium Sedan 2013 currently unable to drive at all (had to tow truck to workshop 1.5 week ago), repairing the TCM and gearbox will take RM8800 from the quotation. We're worried even after repair, the Fiesta will still break down again in 2 months' time, because we already sent the car to repair another 2 times already this year, and this is the 3rd time it broke down in the middle of the road, and need to send to repair.

We are currently thinking either
1) salvaging the car for RM0 and buy another used car (will take around RM15000, very painful to wallet), or
2) either just fix the Fiesta again for the 3rd time again for RM8800

The car hasn't been in any floods or accidents and we don't even know why it has so much problems.

This post has been edited by ASoulNamedLeo: Nov 25 2023, 12:48 PM

iinm any car going through salvage process at minimum you get 3000-5000 bucks.

alternatively,
trade-in for axia rahmah, you'll probably 2000-3000 from the dealer.
at least it is a new car, axia rahmah is 22k iinm.
so loan for 5 years not that painful.

cheapest 2013 ford fiesta is rm7500
not really worth pouring anymore funds into this car
even after rm8800 spend to repair no gurantees

because rm8800 u need to pay cash
might as well buy a used car at the price but nothing really decent at that price
avoid further issues best to get a cheap new car, trade-in the ford to push the problem to someone else

am driving a 2004 kancil 850, mostly city drive, sometimes kl to putrajaya distance, single, still solid, but felt unsafe in the highways

1. Brand. (locals or japans as lower upkeeps)
2. Budget preferably 400-600/months for max 7 years,
3. New/Used/Unreg. ( doesnt matter)
4. Specs
5. Transmission. (Automatic
6. NA or FI ? doesnt matter
7. Type. sedan / hatchback is good
8. Remarks. (add anything u like)(good sound insulation, good aircon, good speakers, preferably less hassle as my last car is a 98 city type s with lotsa problem)

if new, eyeing on saga top spec(or is there a new saga coming out next year?), axia mid specs ( appreciate if can suggest any other options) if used, just sked of those hanky panky tricks

This post has been edited by hottemper: Nov 25 2023, 08:36 PM

Axia X 40K downpayment 4,300 Int 3.5% loan 6yrs
Repayment 600/month.

Saga used to have better handling before the Axia now build on the new DNGA chassis and with its bullet proof 1KR-VE engine strong enough to be turboed for Ativa, it provides a good hatchback alternative to Saga pricing wise and even outhandles the shaky Bezza at highway speed.

Extra 4K for SE lots of cosmetics eg skirtings, interior chromes although the DRL and tint might be desired together w rev counter.

Sorry for off-topic, but really any car can get that much salvage value?

imho if you want decent highway experience the minimum is a B-segment.
however, B-segments are built still more for city driving and city highways
KL to Putrajaya still consider okay, can consider city highway
If interstate highway B-segment minimum with C-segment better for stability, NVH and fuel saving.



you need to check with your local salvage yard
do check how much used car willing to accept it as a yardstick